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Discussion Starter #1
So today was a check up day for the 301K truck after a recent fuel pump and passenger side valve cover gasket. I was pretty happy to pop the hood as I have had no fuel or oil stains in the driveway this summer. I was quickly displeased to find the new fuel pump to be dusted with oil and the valley to have a small puddle of oil as well. The turbo pipe was filmed as well. Pulled the intake and there was a small bit of oil in there nothing big (No more than my 226k truck. I have a bit of smoke out the oil cap (does not blow the cap off). EBPV has been unplugged for a year and a half (started acting up one cold morning), but it does not seem to be a low leak as everything up high is coated. Bone stock truck with good maintenance history.
I believe the turbo to be original. My guess is time for a turbo rebuild.
 

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I'd clean it up real good and then really watch it for a while and see what happens.

It could even be coming from a bad O ring on one of the plugs on the high pressure oil system in the heads. I think that if it was coming from the turbo area it would be seeping out from around the base .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am going to clean everything up real good and keep a close eye on it. Hope it is some easy to get to O-ring somewhere. I was reading an article about the HPOP fittings leaking at the pump. If this the case it requires a special wrench, anyone ever deal with this? Seems like every time I get one leak fixed around here another one takes its place! Not like I have anything else to do on my weekends!
 

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The IPR sensor takes a special wrench or socket. I have read where some have made one to get it out. You can try doing a search for IPR and I am sure that you will find some information, but if you are getting oil at the back of the engine I doubt that it is it.
 

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The HPOP fittings are just standard hex on the OBS (I want to say 18mm?). The SD's had the quick disconnect fittings. They are swivel fittings, so you get it to the correct orientation for the hose and then tighten down the nut to compress the o-ring. I had to weld up a wrench for the 94 to be able to get in there with a funky angle and clear the other fitting (hard to describe, photo attached. Had to grind out the 5/8" to 18mm)
IMG_1146.jpg
When one of my o-rings failed, I dumped a good 4 quarts of oil in about 10 miles. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I cleaned it up pretty good and took it for around a 25 mile drive. When I got back home I looked at all the HPOP fittings and they were all dry. Ran my finger under the Y-pipe and picked up some oil, then looked at the turbo housing and it had oil around the seems where the sealant is and some on top where I know I cleaned it real good. Wiped it all back down and took it out for around a five mile pretty fast passed run checking it half way through. Both times the oil had started to seep out the seem again. So I guess it is time for a Turbo. I have not even begun to start researching turbos yet. I plan to keep the truck stock, and plan to keep it for awhile. So any advice is welcome!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Update on this issue. I have put the truck back on light duty work for the last several weeks while I keep an eye on everything. Tonight I checked over everything and found that after around 200 miles of regular driving and one 10 mile haul of a 3000lb trailer the turbo is the only thing that has any oil on it (See picture if it loads). The valley is dry, so I am pretty sure the seal on the turbo is bad? I can honestly say that this issue may have been going on for sometime without me noticing it due to the fact that I had a leaking passenger side valve cover gasket and a bad fuel pump. So the engine was pretty dirty for the two years I had the truck before I fixed the two issues. So now that the other leaks are fixed I now noticed this one.
SO now I want to address this issue. If the truck will continue to run as is with just a small leak I am OK with it. I check my oil regularly. This truck uses no more or less than my 226K truck (about 2qts every 5k. However, if it is a disaster waiting to happen it needs to be fixed now. My plan for that is to get a rebuilt turbo then send mine in as the core. I want to keep with Garret and mostly stock but if anything can be gained by a different turbo and the stock exhaust and injectors I am game for that. So any advice is as always appreciated.
7.3 turbo leak.jpg
7.3 turbo.jpg
 

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I don't really see anything where you're pointing. How much oil is coming up through the breather into the orange hose? Is it possible that it's just getting blown by the turbo & leaking out where the turbo meets the intake Y?

(phone app link)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Steve, right behind my finger is where all the oil is pooling on top of the turbo. It is almost as if it is coming out if the bolt hole. The orange intake hose always has a small amount, as stated earlier nothing more than my 226k truck and nothing that has ever given me concern for a 301k truck. I do have some oil at the bottom of the y-pipe, the weird thing is is does not seem to be leaving a noticeable track back to the top of the turbo. Meaning I started driving the truck with a clean top of turbo, and drove 2 miles down the road and had oil on top of the turbo and this was not hi way speed 2 miles that may have wind driven the oil back.
At this point I think I want to replace the orange air intake boot it seemed pretty old when I started this. There is no noticeable oil leaking out of the bottom of it though. Also I would probably benefit from trying to get the y pipe sealed up better, at 301k I know it has been off at least once or twice for a fuel pump. Then I will have a new base line to go from.
One thing good that has came out of this mess our country is in, I have been able to spend all my extra money on vehicle maintenance instead of SCCA entry fees, race tires, fuel to and from events, performance parts, you know all the things that used to give me a reason to want to go to work every day!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Getting ready to order the intake boot. Looks like the Riff Raff 9-039 one is the way to go sine the OEM one is not available anymore. $58.66 from Diesel O-rings.
My other question is the Y-pipe seal, on o-rings sight it looks like the OEM Garrett turbo outlet o-ring is Part number 14-064 $4.86. Before I order it I want to make sure that is the right seal.
I am holding out hope that this maybe were the oil is coming from but I am pretty sure it is the turbo itself.
 

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The old orange hose hasn't been available forever. The updated black hose kit (adapter, hose, and all harware) is still available for those that want OEM replacement (F7TZ-9C681-AA). It's about $90. Cheers!
 

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If the oil trail is that hard-to-see, I'd wash the cold engine several times with some detergent/surfactant & LOTS of water, let it dry thoroughly, then dust it (colored chalk powder, talcum, etc.) before starting it up & watching it idle.

(phone app link)


I had to weld up a wrench for the 94 to be able to get in there with a funky angle and clear the other fitting (hard to describe, photo attached. Had to grind out the 5/8" to 18mm)
Snap-On VSM5218B
 

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Discussion Starter #13
good idea on the chalk, after I replace the boots I will clean it all up again and start fresh again.
For right now I want to eliminate all other known sources of exterior engine oil. 1st being the y-pipe to turbo connection and other being the intake boot. Although the intake boot does not seem to be leaking when I had it off last time I could tell it was time to replace it.
I think I am going to go with the riff raff intake boot I can get it with the two intake to y-pipe boots for $74. I still am trying to figure out if the turbo to y-pipe seal though.
 

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Here's the 94-97 Turbo y-pipe seal: F4TZ-9E436-A. For a thicker seal, some folks will try an oil filter seal from a filter for a 2002 Honda Civic 1.7L VTEC.

Steve, that wrench would have been perfect, thanks. I live 60 miles from the nearest bigger city so I had to make do with what I had laying around (at the time the 94 was my wife's "family truckster" and I had to get it fixed ASAP. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Patrick! It is very funny to me about the Honda civic oil filter seal, witch price compared I may go with. Although this is Mazda vs Honda. About every Big 3 vehicle I own at some point has ended up with some random 1st gen RX-7 bolt or part I have laying around! Over 20 years of dealing with 1st gen Rx-7's the fender bolts are my go to for about everything that requires a smaller metric bolt.
As for the wrench, my dad has many of those types of things in his garage. Ebay and Amazon cant get you the part the second you need it to fix your ride to get to work the next day. So sometimes we have to make it ourselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just installed the Riffraff boots and the Civic oil filter seal on the y-pipe seal. I let it idle for about 30 minutes and no oil so far. I am going to take it for a good hard run tomorrow to really check it out. I must admit at this point I think maybe the y-pipe seal was the problem. See the image, the original one is terrible. I admit the last time I had it off was a few months ago to do the fuel pump and when I put it back on it was at least 1:30-2 a.m. and I was just ready to be done with the pump so I may have missed the seal issue.
ypipesealdifferene.jpg
 

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That's an air duct - not oil. If there's so much oil in it that a tiny leak produces a stream or puddle of oil, I'd be looking for the cause of the oil in the airstream.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After about an hour of idling, and about an 20 miles of pulling a trailer. There is still no oil leaking. I am embarrassed to say, but not too proud to admit I made a mistake. Not the only one I made this weekend, but I will address the other one in another post later once I confirm my findings.
Steve, I am sure that the truck has a bit of blow by at 301k miles, but nothing that gives me major concern, there is a bit of smoke out of the oil cap but it does not blow off. It blue smokes a bit on first take off in the morning but only after idling for a bit. It uses no more or less oil than my other truck. All in all it runs great.
As always thanks to one and all for the help. I am just glade not to be having to replace a turbo.
 

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Blow-by is exhaust (compression) going into the crankcase; oil getting into the intake is very different. I'd still be looking for the root problem.
 

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The oil fumes from the blowby can go into the intake through the breather assembly which is tied directly through the intake into the turbo compressor. There can be enough oil from the fumes that it can foul intercoolers on trucks so-equipped. Some folks will disconnect the breather from the intake and convert it to a "road draft" tube or even install aftermarket "catch can" assemblies. Cheers!
 
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