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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

back again with some questions! I have a 1990 7.3L, I know my previous posts said 89 but I was going off the info given to me at the time not the title. It appears that I have a Valdez like oil leak from where the oil pan meets the block just under the harmonic balancer. I will attach some pics of the leak when I get home.

I am assuming it's an oil pan gasket as the leak does not get worse with increase of throttle speed, but we all know what assuming does! :laugh2:

I know the engine has to come out to do this repair, I was just wondering if anyone had some advice for this particular generation of trucks? I've read some posts where people had to remove the front tires to lower the front end enough to get the engine out as well as removing the radiator and grill. what about removing the accessories? alt, power steering etc?
I will have access to a full shop while doing this as well as help from a friend who is a full time mech.

I was also going to fix the smoking issue while it's out as well. as you can see from the picture it smokes really good on cold start and it appears one of the injectors is leaking from the top.

any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
 

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When you get it out, you have a choice of using RTV sealer or a regular gasket. One thing I'd do for sure that many guys don't and that's get a buddy, scribe marks around both hood hinges and take 10 or15 minutes and remove the hood. Better visibility and easier access to everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LMJD,

what's your recommendation for a gasket? auto parts stores sell one, but everything I read so far says use RTV only. I just don't want to have to do this again in a short period of time.

thanks!
 

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Factory used RTV only, the gaskets will leak guaranteed. Most on the oil burners site recommend copper RTV.


89 F-350 sc 2wd DRW 7.3 ATS 088, C-6 with Gear Vendor and a rats nest of wiring that was free with purchase.
00 Excursion limited, 6.8 4x4
2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic Sport 4x4 4.0 auto
 

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The oil pan NEVER uses a pan gasket. Use one and I guarantee you a gasket leak. the factory ONLY USED RTV... It never leaks. I have used permatex ultra copper plus for many years and never had a leaker. My idi oil pan has been on for 9 years this way and not a drop of oil leaking. My best wishes with your idea of RTV and a gasket. If the engine is in the truck now with rtv and a gasket you will need to pull the engine to replace the gasket mistake.
If you're going by this "advice" from Icantfixit on another forum, take it with a grain of salt. Those of us that have actually worked in diesel truck shops (he never has) have used cork or rubber pan gaskets for decades with NO leaks on Cummins, Mack, Detroit, Navistar, and any other engine pan you care to mention. It's just a matter of installing it correctly and knowing what you're doing, obviously he does not. With that said, there's nothing wrong with using RTV sealer, the choice is yours but they both have to be used correctly. Makes sense the factory would only use sealer due to the cost and time factor during engine production.
Should I do the front main any way while it's out?
You bet, any time you have an engine out with mucho miles on it, it's wise to replace the front crankshaft seal and more importantly the rear main seal.
 

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Just looked at your last pic. That's a tough one. Looks like the front damper sits in so close to the pan and block that even if you pressure washed/steam cleaned all the crud away it would be hard to tell if the leak is at the pan front or higher at the crankshaft seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, it's been negelected long before I took possession of it. clock reads, I think, 161k but it could be more.
as it is it serves as my farm truck, but I do still want to keep it in decent running order.
parts I have so far are valve cover gaskets, RTV, front and rear main seals. any thing else you think I should look at/replace while it is out?

thanks again for all the help!
 

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It's kinda rear that an oil pan would just start to leak at that point, more than likely the front oil seal. If you use RTV instead of a gasket, both the pan and pan rail has to be surgically clean or it will leak like a sieve.
 

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as it is it serves as my farm truck, but I do still want to keep it in decent running order
Good for you. Farm truck and decent running order are never used in the same sentence with most all the ranchers I run with.:) They're idea of preventive maintenance is a gun filled with Ivomec. :) One guy that about 6 of us cowboy for off and on has a beatup Chevy 454 and we'll cram about 5 horse in his stock trailer, 4 of us stuffed in the front seat, and head up the steep Chief Joseph Hwy, then unload and trail his cattle 17 miles back down the mountain highway on horseback. On the way up his fulltime hand was saying hope we don't run out of brake fluid, ran out the other day. That, and the seatbelts stuffed somewhere behind the seats (never been used in years) gave me a real feeling of confidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was a diesel mech in the Marines and too many times I had to repair stuff because drivers wouldn't properly check fluids or fill out work orders for stuff, was a little irritating.

LMJD, I don't do that kind of hauling, but I do pick up a couple tons of hay a month and would rather not have that thing grenade on me while driving down the road!

what is the front main sleeve I have read about? I have read that some cannot find the part anymore? is this something I will need to deal with on this model year, if so does anyone have a good source for the part?
 

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The front seal can wear a groove in the pulley and a new seal won't work. The sleeve is a thin metal ring that goes over the pulley surface making it full diameter, and smooth for the new seal to ride on.

Mama hasent caught me yet, but I stick the pulley in the freezer for about 1/2 hr to shrink the metal. Makes it eased to put the sleeve on.
 

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They are called Speedi-Sleeves. You buy them at a parts house for whatever size round surface you need the sleeve for. Anything from a small 1/2" shaft in any hydraulic pump to maybe 3-4" on a heavy equipment axle spindle. Unless the surface the seal rides on is grooved, you won't need one. And then depending on the timing cover design sometimes you can drive the new seal in either shallower or deeper so it rides on a new ungrooved portion of the crankshaft surface.
Here ya'go:
https://www.google.com/#q=speedi+sleeve
 

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The front seal can wear a groove in the pulley and a new seal won't work. The sleeve is a thin metal ring that goes over the pulley surface making it full diameter, and smooth for the new seal to ride on.

Mama hasent caught me yet, but I stick the pulley in the freezer for about 1/2 hr to shrink the metal. Makes it eased to put the sleeve on.
If/or when Mama catches you, try a C-O2 fire extinguisher, or dry ice.

As far as the part number of the speedy sleeve goes, go to a GOOD bearing and industrial supply store with the brand and number of the seal. Tell them you need a speedy sleeve.
 

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Hasn't caught me in 16+ yrs and counting.
 

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You can also just boil the speedi-sleeve in water for a minute.
 
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Might try that this weekend.
Yeah, Chuck, I'd heat one up in water, grab it with my welding gloves and slide it on. We'd first coat the shaft with the Permatex Aviation sealer to act as a lube and sealer. The ones our parts guys bought had the installation flange so sometimes if we were lucky we'd find a short piece of pipe the right diameter to us as a driver then shear off the flange.
 
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