Joined
·
44 Posts
i have a 1999.5 psd and the oil pan is leakin i gotta get it fixed whats involved and how much does this cost???? thanxs jamie
oil pan leaking how much$$$$$
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
I have the same problem. Everything I have read says you have to pull the motor to fix it. I am living with a small drip for a while. I have not looked into how much it costs, but pulling the motor does not sound very cheep to me. There are numerous other places you could have a leak though that can look like your oil pan is leaking. Check the valley on top of the motor thoroughly first. Could be at the turbo pedestal. These are notorious for leaking.
Joined
·
6,005 Posts
In order to fix correctly engine must be pulled and turned upside down over night for the sealer to cure. This can run $1200-$1800 depending on dealer. This has led some to creative fixes. Fiberglass seems to work well, JB weld and other epoxies it all depends on where it is leaking from you give us some more details and we can go from there.
I'm not a leaker, but if I was I would wonder if durring the engine pull there is an aftermarket pan that coudl be installed. Something to get rid stock sheet-metal pan with. Something on the order of a "MAG-HYTEC like" aluminum pan with 0-ring so it would require no gasket or sealant-- and dear God-- hold another 4-quarts of oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Anything out there like this for the 7.3?
/tg
Anything out there like this for the 7.3?
/tg
Joined
·
10,487 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
I'm not a leaker, but if I was I would wonder if durring the engine pull there is an aftermarket pan that coudl be installed. Something to get rid stock sheet-metal pan with. Something on the order of a "MAG-HYTEC like" aluminum pan with 0-ring so it would require no gasket or sealant-- and dear God-- hold another 4-quarts of oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Anything out there like this for the 7.3?
/tg
[/ QUOTE ]Four more quarts??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
15 freeking quarts each change is not enough! LOL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif
I'm not a leaker, but if I was I would wonder if durring the engine pull there is an aftermarket pan that coudl be installed. Something to get rid stock sheet-metal pan with. Something on the order of a "MAG-HYTEC like" aluminum pan with 0-ring so it would require no gasket or sealant-- and dear God-- hold another 4-quarts of oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Anything out there like this for the 7.3?
/tg
[/ QUOTE ]Four more quarts??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
15 freeking quarts each change is not enough! LOL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif
Joined
·
76 Posts
Here's a response I got a while back about it. You can pull the trans. and get the pan off or this:
BEFORE STARTING JOB GET GREY DIESEL SILICONE FROM FORD DEALER OR INTERNATIONAL ALSO OIL PUMP PICK UP GASKET THEN DO AS FOLLOWS
FIRST OF ALL REMOVE TURBO TO ALLOW ENGINE TO BE LIFTED ENOUGH 20 MIN JOB TO REMOVE NEXT REMOVE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS AND STARTER LIFT ENGINE REMOVE PAN BOLTS ( DRINK BEER IF NECISSARY ) LOL . NEXT HAVE FUN REMOVING THE PAN FROM BLOCK THE FACTORY SILICONE HOLDS IT THERE VERY WELL ONCE PAN IS REMOVED REMOVE 2 BOLTS HOLDING OIL PUMP PICK UP ON ALOT PICK UP TO FALL INTO PAN SLIDE PAN OUT OF TRUCK WITH VERY TIGHT CLEARANCES CLEAN ALL SURFACES APPLY GOOD 1/4 - 3/8 BEAD OF SILICONE TO BLOCK ONCE ALL IS CLEAN RE ASSEMBLE UNIT IN REVERSE PROCEDURE WORKING TIME WITH THEAT TYPE OF SILICONE IS APPROX 15 - 20 MIN MAX
ONCE ASSEMBLED ALLOW TO DRY OVERNIGHT FILL WITH OIL DRIVE WITH JOY AGAIN
P.S. PLEASE MAKE SURE THE OIL PAN IS LEAKING HAVE SEEN MANY MIS DIAGNOSED PAN AND REAR MAIN LEAKS LOOK ON THE TOP OF THE ENGINE IN THE VALLEY IF OIL IS LAYING IN THERE EITHER THE HIGH PSI PUMP IS LEAKING OUT THE FITTINGS TO THE HEADS THESE SEALS HAN BE REPLACED IF IT LEAKS OUT THE 2.5" PLUG PPUMP IS TO BE REPLACED ALS IT CAN LEAK OIL FROM TURBO PEDISTAL
THE RASON IT CAN LOOK LIKE A PAN OR REAR MAIN IS THERE IS A DRAIN HOLE IN THE VALLEY THAT ALLOWS OIL / WATER ECT TO DRAIN THROUGH INTO THE BELL HOUSING
YOU ARE WELCOME FOR THE INFO
ENJOY
BEFORE STARTING JOB GET GREY DIESEL SILICONE FROM FORD DEALER OR INTERNATIONAL ALSO OIL PUMP PICK UP GASKET THEN DO AS FOLLOWS
FIRST OF ALL REMOVE TURBO TO ALLOW ENGINE TO BE LIFTED ENOUGH 20 MIN JOB TO REMOVE NEXT REMOVE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS AND STARTER LIFT ENGINE REMOVE PAN BOLTS ( DRINK BEER IF NECISSARY ) LOL . NEXT HAVE FUN REMOVING THE PAN FROM BLOCK THE FACTORY SILICONE HOLDS IT THERE VERY WELL ONCE PAN IS REMOVED REMOVE 2 BOLTS HOLDING OIL PUMP PICK UP ON ALOT PICK UP TO FALL INTO PAN SLIDE PAN OUT OF TRUCK WITH VERY TIGHT CLEARANCES CLEAN ALL SURFACES APPLY GOOD 1/4 - 3/8 BEAD OF SILICONE TO BLOCK ONCE ALL IS CLEAN RE ASSEMBLE UNIT IN REVERSE PROCEDURE WORKING TIME WITH THEAT TYPE OF SILICONE IS APPROX 15 - 20 MIN MAX
ONCE ASSEMBLED ALLOW TO DRY OVERNIGHT FILL WITH OIL DRIVE WITH JOY AGAIN
P.S. PLEASE MAKE SURE THE OIL PAN IS LEAKING HAVE SEEN MANY MIS DIAGNOSED PAN AND REAR MAIN LEAKS LOOK ON THE TOP OF THE ENGINE IN THE VALLEY IF OIL IS LAYING IN THERE EITHER THE HIGH PSI PUMP IS LEAKING OUT THE FITTINGS TO THE HEADS THESE SEALS HAN BE REPLACED IF IT LEAKS OUT THE 2.5" PLUG PPUMP IS TO BE REPLACED ALS IT CAN LEAK OIL FROM TURBO PEDISTAL
THE RASON IT CAN LOOK LIKE A PAN OR REAR MAIN IS THERE IS A DRAIN HOLE IN THE VALLEY THAT ALLOWS OIL / WATER ECT TO DRAIN THROUGH INTO THE BELL HOUSING
YOU ARE WELCOME FOR THE INFO
ENJOY
Joined
·
2,570 Posts
Not as many... however living in the north (By choice) most of my life, I can say I've never seen anything rot like the oilpans do.
Yes we know the salt accelerates the process, but some good metal/prep at the factory would solve the problem.
Yes we know the salt accelerates the process, but some good metal/prep at the factory would solve the problem.
Joined
·
2,570 Posts
like a condom? I don't get it?
The pan is rotting out not leaking at the gasket.
The pan is rotting out not leaking at the gasket.
Correct, but if you could custom make a gasket, there are a few methods for removing the pan without removing the motor. The only reson you have to remove the motor is because the RTV will not seal if it gets any oil at all on it (that's why you have to invert the motor). With a custom (homemade) gasket that would solve those issues. A two or three day job could be done in a day.
Along with dipping the truck to protect it from salt corrosion. LOL
Along with dipping the truck to protect it from salt corrosion. LOL
If all you were worried about is the RTV setting up just use Loctite 515 or 518 on it. Or any anaerobic sealer for that matter, but good luck ever getting that pan off again. After 518 sets up you'll need a torch and a new oil pan if you take it off again.
Joined
·
247 Posts
A friend of mine had this on his 2000, and he removed the pan bolts slightly, just enough to goop some RTV into the gap, and it sealed. Course his wasnt rusting through, just leaking.
Joined
·
6,005 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
A friend of mine had this on his 2000, and he removed the pan bolts slightly, just enough to goop some RTV into the gap, and it sealed. Course his wasnt rusting through, just leaking.
[/ QUOTE ]
Tell your friend to run to the gas station and buy a lottery ticket because he is the luckiest man in the USA!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
A friend of mine had this on his 2000, and he removed the pan bolts slightly, just enough to goop some RTV into the gap, and it sealed. Course his wasnt rusting through, just leaking.
[/ QUOTE ]
Tell your friend to run to the gas station and buy a lottery ticket because he is the luckiest man in the USA!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
If all you were worried about is the RTV setting up just use Loctite 515 or 518 on it. Or any anaerobic sealer for that matter, but good luck ever getting that pan off again. After 518 sets up you'll need a torch and a new oil pan if you take it off again.
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't want it to be something that you cannot fix, don't want to make the oil pan part of the block.
If all you were worried about is the RTV setting up just use Loctite 515 or 518 on it. Or any anaerobic sealer for that matter, but good luck ever getting that pan off again. After 518 sets up you'll need a torch and a new oil pan if you take it off again.
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't want it to be something that you cannot fix, don't want to make the oil pan part of the block.
Joined
·
6,005 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
If all you were worried about is the RTV setting up just use Loctite 515 or 518 on it. Or any anaerobic sealer for that matter, but good luck ever getting that pan off again. After 518 sets up you'll need a torch and a new oil pan if you take it off again.
[/ QUOTE ]
Or you can just weld the pan to the block!! That should work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
If all you were worried about is the RTV setting up just use Loctite 515 or 518 on it. Or any anaerobic sealer for that matter, but good luck ever getting that pan off again. After 518 sets up you'll need a torch and a new oil pan if you take it off again.
[/ QUOTE ]
Or you can just weld the pan to the block!! That should work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
