[MarvinVR]

Got the dfuser kit. Had a few problems. My AIH was really stuck in the housing and I had to use a 14" wrench and HAMMER it loose. The dfuser instructions were a bit incomplete but they did a great job of emailing me over the weekend and I got it straight. They said to take their special resistor wire and run from the hot solenoid lead to a ground. Their wire is too short and the connection too small to ground back to the original ground, which would be nice. I suggested that to them.

Now the interesting part. I guess the wire is to keep from throwing a code. Here are questions and others comments.

1. Do we care if it throws a code? Does that bother anything in anyway including any type of flashing light, or performance, etc?

2. Some have reported a code EVEN WITH the resistor wire. If so, why should we bother putting it on?

3. Is that solenoids sole purpose to run the AIH? If so, can we just take the whole thing out? It would gain a little working space.

Could the solenoid be used for some other creative purpose?

4.Others have said just rip everything out and who cares about a code. If thats the case I wasted some bucks on the resistor wire.

Can we get a majority opinion or at least someone with an expert opinion and some facts?

 

[CSIPSD]

[ QUOTE ]
Got the dfuser kit. Had a few problems. My AIH was really stuck in the housing and I had to use a 14" wrench and HAMMER it loose. The dfuser instructions were a bit incomplete but they did a great job of emailing me over the weekend and I got it straight. They said to take their special resistor wire and run from the hot solenoid lead to a ground. Their wire is too short and the connection too small to ground back to the original ground, which would be nice. I suggested that to them.

Now the interesting part. I guess the wire is to keep from throwing a code. Here are questions and others comments.

1. Do we care if it throws a code? Does that bother anything in anyway including any type of flashing light, or performance, etc?<font color="red"> Doesnt hurt a thing. </font>

2. Some have reported a code EVEN WITH the resistor wire. If so, why should we bother putting it on? <font color="red"> Thats me... still have the code </font>

3. Is that solenoids sole purpose to run the AIH? If so, can we just take the whole thing out? It would gain a little working space.

Could the solenoid be used for some other creative purpose? <font color="red"> </font> Yes, just for the AIH, some have said it will work as a back up GPR, but I just left mine sitting there.

4.Others have said just rip everything out and who cares about a code. If thats the case I wasted some bucks on the resistor wire.

Can we get a majority opinion or at least someone with an expert opinion and some facts?

[/ QUOTE ]

I bought the wire, hooked it up just like shown on the drawing and still have the code, just leave it off and then not have something else to unhook when your working on it...

 

[duallyduty]

I still had the code when I did the mod.

 

[Kickin Y2K]

1 Doesn't really bother me as it doesn't set a light, but if the code wasn't there at all would be happier /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
2 Yep. Even sent it back to them and was told it works fine and I had it hooked up wrong /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Threw it in the garbage...should have got my money back through the credit card company /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
3/4 Yep, mine is completely gone now.

 

[Layson]

I still have the code too...

 

[MarvinVR]

Well then Im just going to rip the entire thing out, Solenoid and all unless someone can think of another cool use for the solenoid. Anyone wanna buy an unused resistor wire cheap? lol

What about the blue existing wire going to the solenoid? You guys take that off all the way too or just the end to the solenoid?? Where does the thing go?

 

[Layson]

I didn't take out the solenoid... I think it can be used for the glow plugs if the solenoid ever goes out???

This is from dieselsite....

Follow the simple instructions below to install the Air Intake Heater Plug.

As shown in the picture below, the intake heater is located on the left hand side of the intake manifold. It has two wires attached to it.

Remove the black wire (ground). You can leave this hanging in the valley as it is only a ground wire or you can trace it back to its origin and remove it completely.

Remove the red wire (hot) from the air intake heater. Follow the red wire back to where it terminates at an electric solenoid. You'll need to remove this end of the red wire as well.

There is a blue wire attached to the same terminal post on the solenoid. Leave this blue wire attached. If you do not leave the blue wire attached, a diagnostic scanner cannot do a full contribution test on your vehicle. Do not ignore this.

After you remove the wires, unscrew the heater and remove it. The new plug fits easily in its place. Only snug the Air Intake Heater Plug as it seals with a rubber washer. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Keep any wires so that you can reverse the installation if you ever want to.

 

[MarvinVR]

They didnt even mention a resistor wire to go from hot terminal to ground.

If we do take out the solenoid then what would the blue wire go to? That quote said without it hooked up a diagnostic scanner cannot do a full contribution test on your vehicle.

Are the guys w no solenoid going to have that problem and is it really a problem?

Now another fly in the ointment.

 

[Kanman]

Still got the code too. Apparently that expensive little wire ain't worth a damn to anybody. It is a shame they still get away with selling it.

 

[QtrHorse]

I don't have the wire but I do have the code. It has never affected anything that I know of.

 

[marksuttonjr]

I am getting ready to do the AIH delete, so that I can tap my boost gauge in there instead of the MAP sensor line. It seems like even though my current location of my T is before my ITP overboost eliminator the gauge only goes up to what I have the eliminator set to let the MAP sensor see. There is NO way that I lost 10PSI of the boost I was making just by installing an overboost eliminator.

What do I need to buy at the hardware store to plug the hole? I know it is just a plug, but what size? I am not going to buy the fancy wire. Instead I am just going to toss the old one. Am I correct in assuming that the code will NOT turn my SES light on? From what I read that is what I assume.

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

Its a soft code, it will not set the SES light.

However, it will also not let your run full diagnostic tests with programs like the AE until you clear the code. I want to say its just a 470ohm or so resistor (I'd use a 1-watt rated one myself) that goes fromthe blue wire to ground to is supposed to trick the PCM into thinking the AIH is still in place and working.

 

[Cool_Canuck]

[ QUOTE ]
What do I need to buy at the hardware store to plug the hole? I know it is just a plug, but what size? I am not going to buy the fancy wire. Instead I am just going to toss the old one. Am I correct in assuming that the code will NOT turn my SES light on? From what I read that is what I assume.

[/ QUOTE ]

22 x 1.5 metric plug. Some Dodge oil pan plugs will fit the bill.

 

[marksuttonjr]

Thanks Cool_Canuck
I have been searching for and reading every post that the search feature finds, and hod not found that info yet. I even asked for it in 3 or 4 different threads. Now it's time to head to the parts store.

 

[clydesdale]

Ford forgotton, I think this is what is happening to me know. Have you done this resistor thing? Did it work? I can't run buzz test or contribution test.

 

[ELLIOT02]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ford_Forgotton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its a soft code, it will not set the SES light.

However, it will also not let your run full diagnostic tests with programs like the AE until you clear the code. I want to say its just a 470ohm or so resistor (I'd use a 1-watt rated one myself) that goes fromthe blue wire to ground to is supposed to trick the PCM into thinking the AIH is still in place and working. </div></div>Thinking about getting AE.If I clear the AIH code(scanner),can I continue AE diagnostics full test? I gave my AIH away.

 

[ITowBoats]

My OBA works fine, my truck would hit 27-28# real quick then set the SES, now its not a problem

 

[DarkShadowDiesel]

newer versions of AE can still do a CCT without any problems.

 

[Humdinger]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ELLIOT02</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thinking about getting AE.If I clear the AIH code(scanner),can I continue AE diagnostics full test? I gave my AIH away. </div></div>

Download the latest version of AE and you won't have a problem.

Michael

 

[clydesdale]

Are you sure? In another active thread someone posted that version 5.4 still has the code pop up.