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That's not oil.
Oil would settle out with some time.
That just looks rusty.

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When I did my flush, after the initial flush with a hose while the truck was running for 30 minutes, I filled it with distilled water every morning, drove it to work and back and opened the radiator drain with the nose pointed downhill at night. I did that for a week before converting

If I were you I would keep flushing until it is almost clear. You are only about half way there at 16 gallons. The system holds 7 I believe.
 

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+1 on both posts above!
 

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Go to Harbor Freight and get the long ball end metric hex bit set. You will get it clean and begin to get the old residue out much faster if you remove those block drains. The one by front end of starter is the tough one but the long bits make it go way better.

you can get those tools other places but for a lot more money and you may not have any other use for them but this.
 

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Go to Harbor Freight and get the long ball end metric hex bit set. You will get it clean and begin to get the old residue out much faster if you remove those block drains. The one by front end of starter is the tough one but the long bits make it go way better.

you can get those tools other places but for a lot more money and you may not have any other use for them but this.
+1 on this. I replaced the block drains with fumoto valves and a section of clear tubing to each valve to allow the coolant to easily drain and not drip on the starter, etc. Then, I joined both sections of tubing at the bottom into a T fitting. It works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
it seems to be getting dirtier the more distilled water i put in it.... also i noticed that the degas cap is leaking agin when i drove it at highway speeds. could this be because its not pressurized and there is a leak in it? I am going to buy a new bottle and install it today.
 

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Are you still running a cleaner? Or this is just the flush stage?

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When you let that sit, does any of it layer out?

What kind of smell does it have?

I don't like running completely up to temperature with only water. You get more rust formation that way.
 

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And the waterpump is not getting the benefite of the lubricant in the coolant.
 

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That being said, I had no problem when flushing mine and running it 25 miles each way to work. I don't know what you have going on there. Did you run it with the garden hose in the degas bottle with the lower radiator hose off to start the flushing? I ran mine for a good 30 minutes or more that way before closing it up and going to the distilled water. I have 220,000 miles on my original waterpump.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
@Ford06 thats what i did this weekend. I ran the hose thru it for about 10 mins till it was clear. then i drove it and when i flushed it again it was red again. Im going to do that again and again till it stops getting red and i can fill it with distilled water and put the cat rated coolant in it. Also i let a bottle settle over night and this is what it looks like. Someone mentioned if it settles then its oil in it....?
 

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Are you flushing it with the t-stat removed and the heater ON?

If you are just flushing it with a garden hose then I wonder if the temp is getting high enough to open the t-stat?
 

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Oil and diesel will both float on the top

On the bottom will be rust and scale
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I do not get this truck. sometimes the deltas are within 5 degrees of each other and sometimes they are a constant 12. It depends the day and time for this truck. I changed the oil to rotella t6 with new oil filter. i drive it around and the temps were with in 3 delta of each other till about 160. then the coolant stayed around 164-168 while the oil climbed to 180. the oil didnt really go above that and i was driving on the highway at about 60-70. The delta did go to 16 degrees for a breif min. but then it went back to within tolerance. To close for my comfort. but is that okay?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
i dont get this truck. it depends the day i drive it if the deltas decide to be good and stay within 5 degrees of each other or not. yesterday i changed the oil to rotella t6 and changed the oil filter. today i test drive it and the deltas were within 3 degrees of each other until about 160 degrees where the coolant just hovered from 16-168 and the oil climbed to 180. today it decided to be a constant 11-14 difference with it hitting a difference of 16 for a brief min. With synthetic oil should the operating oil temp be lower? It really didnt go about 180 and i was driving on the highway at 60-70 mph. Also is the 16 degree delta detrimental or is it okay if it did that for a minuet?
 

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For what it's worth, I just installed a new OEM Oil Cooler and BulletProof EGR Cooler and my deltas are usually 5-10 degrees. I run Zerex HD Coolant (Red).

I think people stress too much about the EOT / ECT deltas. If it is about 16 degrees and stays there, then you might have issues.
 

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I think people stress too much about the EOT / ECT deltas. If it is about 16 degrees and stays there, then you might have issues.
+1

Also, don’t the Deltas only matter when the truck reaches operating temperature?

ECT of 160* ? Is that normal temp for a 6.0 ?
 

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Certainly the 15 degrees is only a "guideline".

Remember Navistar and Ford first came out w/ a 25 degree limit. Later dropped down to 15 degrees.

Originally, it was to prevent EGR cooler failures due to the restricted oil cooler preventing coolant flow through the EGR cooler. Then they started seeing more and more oil cooler failures. Then we started seeing some examples of melted oil filter standpipes from extra hot oil!

IMO the OEM oil coolers are a GREAT design, but if the temperature differentials get too high it causes mechanical stress on the heat exchanger. The result of this stress is a failure. I believe that the 15 degree limit is possibly conservative, but this is an area that warrants the conservative approach.

The other thing to watch is the actual oil temp. Remember that the oil temp is really the coolest temp for the oil in the engine. The oil in the pan is often times as much as 50 degrees hotter. Oil in some engine locations could be even higher. Ford's oil temp (EOT) limit (when the PCM begins to "de-fuel") is 253*F. IMO this isn't conservative enough. I would put it closer to 235 *F personally. The hotter things are, the less operating life they will have.
 

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Bismic,

I learn alot every time you post.

I should have been more specific. I think the 15* Delta has been shown a good rule to follow but I wonder if there are not parameters when the temperatures should be compared.

For example, an engine still warming up could see big deltas and so could an engine in traffic or topping a pass, etc..

Isn’t there some standard that the truck should be cruising on fairly consistent terrain with a steady load on the engine, etc?

Thanks
 
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