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Most of the time the reading is done while at a constant in the highway. Takes some of the variable out.

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Fords procedure states a "careful acceleration to WOT" or something like that. Many people got frustrated with the vagueness of it, so an internet standard was sort of adopted. The standard is now a steady 55-65 mph on level ground. Of course it requires the engine to be fully warmed up.

That said, if an oil cooler is 100% healthy, you shouldn't exceed the 15 degree differential even when towing. Some people worry about a 20 degree differential when towing heavy on a 100*F day. I wouldn't be too concerned with that, but 20*F would be my upper limit when towing heavy (as long as you were below the 15*F under normal driving).
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Spoke to a friend and he said once the radiator gets rusts there's no taking it out. So just to use it till it breaks and then replace it. What would be the negative effects if I used just distilled water and wetter in the degas redivior until I have to replace the radiator then I replace it with the cat elc1? I plan on doing it in the next two weeks. And not putting more than 500 miles on the truck. Also I noticed while I stay still the eot and ect get close like 3 degrees apart to each other (178 coolant 181 oil) the coolant gets hotter and the oil gets cooler while I'm driving they're a constant 10-13 difference the coolant gets cooler while driving and the oil gets hotter(172 coolant 185 oil).... is that normal?
 

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There are a number of chemical flushes that remove rust.

Products like water wetter work by a different chemical process than glycol coolants.

It will require a very thorough flush when you go back to a proper coolant.

Plus I don’t think Water Wetter is even diesel rated or has sufficient SCA levels and would risk issues of cavitation. Hopefully someone can provide some facts.

I would add around 40% ELC coolant for the week it takes you to get a new radiator. Just one of the cheaper products.

There are some real junk aftermarket radiators. I would choose to keep my Ford factory radiator and have it cleaned at a radiator shop rather than buy a cheap aftermarket.
 

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Isn’t your Ford radiator aluminum and does not rust?
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
I was driving the truck and out of no where both the EOT and ECT dropped by 25 degrees or so. Then I also noticed that when I came to a stop and then accelerated it sounded like an 18 wheeler acceleration/ or maybe a vacuum sound (that loud hum and the harder I accelerated the louder it was)? After it dropped the oil temp wouldnt go above 150 and the coolant was around 135-150 also im pretty sure MPG dropped as well. there were points where the deltas were 17 degrees and it stayed there for a while. I parked it and letting it cool down to see if the same issues will be replicated. Any ideas on what it could be? I googled it and it could be the turbo is leaking somewhere so I should check the hoses. but would the turbo cause the decrease in temps?
 

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No, the noise was the fan coming on.
Those temps seem low. What was outside temp?
I have to ask, are you a sooner?
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Discussion Starter #48
The were low. They dropped out of no where. after driving. the Temp outside was probably 75. I live in florida and it was night.
And i am not sure what a sooner is so not sure how to answer that one.
 

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Oh, Florida. Well that answers that. Lol

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Discussion Starter #50
So this is the sound im talking about. Im not sure if the video helps. But i also noticed like a jingling sound... like chains or keys or something.

The first two are about the vacuum sound.


^ this one was supposed to be the sound of the jingle if you will. but you cant really hear it.
 
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