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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Buddy just brought me his truck on a trailer. Had it at ford for a overheat issue and they diagnosed as head gaskets. Put it back together for him except the glow plugs out and he trailered it here after saving up his cash. Wants me to do the head gaskets. I drained the oil and 6 or so litres of coolant is laying in the bottom of the pan. Looks like it leaked in while sitting. Not mixed with the oil.
I'm going to pressurize the cooling system and look for the leaks. Just wondering how many potential leaks spots I have here. Oil cooler, injector cups, cavitation. Seems like a lot of coolant to run down beside the pistons. Does just head gaskets often result in large amounts of coolant in the pan. Mind you it may have been cranked squirting the coolant from the cylinder up into the valve cover through the removed glow plugs.
I guess next would be a compression test which must be what the dealer did for $1000
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Pumped cooling system up to 10 psi and within a minute I have a steady stream of coolant running out the oil pan drain hole.
 

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Bet your front cover cavitated. Do you have a scope?
 

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I believe the front cover may be your most likely suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No Scope. But a front cover would not cause a overheat unless the coolant got too low? I'm thinking a comp test next... I never got to hear it run either.
How long to get to the front cover to check it?
 

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The engine comes out to get the front cover off. The oil pickup is bolted to the bottom. You might see something by pulling the water pump. I can't see a head gasket leaking that fast. A cavitated cylinder wall should be blowing out through your open glow plug. Did you see any fluid in any cylinder while you were pressurizing the coolant? Could it have been pouring out a glow plug hole down into the pan?
 

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The most likely spot on the front cover for a cavitation issue is in the water pump impeller cavity. Pull that off and check there first. Nick has a picture here that shows cavitation on a front cover pretty well. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/7-3l-stripped-water-pump-front-cover-544458/#post3935378

Was there any oil in the coolant as well? That would point to the oil cooler. 50 psi +/- oil pressure vs 16 psi coolant pressure.

It's hard to overheat a 7.3L. I had one run about 1-2 gallons low on coolant and it never showed hot on the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok Front to back
#1 420lb
#2 390lb
#3 370lb
#4 400lb
#5 300lb Coolant is leaking into #5 only
#6 420 lb
#7 500 lb
#8 390 lb
So cavitation or head gasket?
Do the gaskets usually just fail into the water jacket only and not an adjacent cylinder?
At least I know what hole to inspect closely now. In the Am I'm going to try running that piston up and down and see if it changes anything.
 

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I'm wondering if the #5 injector cup un seated and pushed up...?
Can only happen if the injector wasn't torqued properly. Have you looked to make sure that cup isn't cracked?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Not yet, I'll pull that injector and look, or try to take a pic in there. Hard to get my head in there. Can't run it to warm up unless I put glow plugs and oil back in it. Why warmed up??
The other part that concerns me is when pressurized coolant starts running out the oil pan long b4 before it bubbles out the #5 glow plug.
There was no coolant in the rocker area when I pulled the covers and the engine over turned fine.

Then i pressurized it for 1 minute and it ran out the oil pan drain.
But when I went to crank for comp test now #5 is blowing coolant out. Leaving the pressure on the rad for 3 minutes filled 5 and it started coming out the glow plug hole but it started running out the oil pan after only a minute with the pressure on.
Truck recently had all injectors changed
Prob should pull the water pump and check there too?
 

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With 300 psi on the "bad" hole I have a hrs time blaming a head gasket. With the injectors having been recently replaced I would start there! I know you are coming in on the back side of this operation and therefore don't know what procedures were used but I'm wondering if the cylinders were evacuated properly after install and I'd be willing to bet that cup isn't seated properly which is likely the beginning of your woes.and if the cylinders weren't evacuated properly they may be wanting to "do a head gasket" to cover up the fact that they screwed something up!
 

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Pull the water pump and inspect what you can of the front cover there. Pull the injectors and get a look at the cups. Get ahold of a bore scope and inspect the cylinder and valves for damage focusing on #6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Definitely have a bad leak on #5 cup, now that I finally got my inspection camera to work. Of course it has to be the one thats tight against the heater box. Could not see any other leaks on 3 and 7 but had to get much pressure in there 5 is leaking so bad. Think I order the tool and cups and fix that one then I can see if there r any others. $300 for tool and cups is about the going rate? I see a guy renting one but 1/2 price of new might as well buy my own and sell it later.
 

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That contraption at RR is a major time burglar. Get the Rosewood kit. You could definitely sell it quick if you sell it as used and for the right price.
Which contraption are you referring to? The new rosewood cup tool available from riffraff? I've used the old version that requires a hammer and planning on getting the new version next time I've gotta do cups (which will be soon as I figure I may as well go ahead and do the cups when I do injectors and have 2 trucks needing them soon...)
 

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I see a guy renting one but 1/2 price of new might as well buy my own and sell it later.
If you buy the cups from Riffraff, you can rent the tool from them. I think the rental is free but there is a refundable deposit. No one I know of has ever had an issue. My neighbor rented their tool and we used it on the cup R&R on his truck. It worked perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Parts r here tomorrow. How do I go about flush the fuel gallery in the head to be sure I don't send coolant into the injectors?
Also thinking I'll do a extra oil change after a short run period to be sure the coolant is out of the crankcase.
 

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Once you pull the injectors, the fuel rails (and high pressure oil rails) will drain into the injectors. A crucial part of this procedure is sucking all of that material out of the cylinders before you button everything up and try cranking on a hydrolocked engine. I wouldn't go to any additional trouble to try and flush anything.

One suggestion if this is your first time doing this. Get a good light and mirror or a boroscope. After you pull the old cups, there will be substantial Loctite residual in the bore. You MUST clean to the point of perfection. Pretty easy on the front two cylinders. Gets pretty touch as you get towards the rear. Take your time and don't start putting new cups in until you've got them cleared out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok thanks for the tips.
Starting to wish I had seen the post about renting the tool b4 I bought this one. The tap from Diesel Care does not seem to have enough (or any taper) and I can't get it to bite into the cup to start the thread in process. Of course its Sat now and they are closed. Not sure what advise they would have anyway. And of course #5 is not a easy hole for access.
Looking at making a hold down for it using the injector hold down bolt hole and welding some threaded rod to some other 6mm bolts I have. Up hill battle today it seems....
 
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