[-Joe-]

Hi Everyone, new here and fairly new to the Powerstroke family. I recently bought a '04 F250 with a 6.0 powerstroke. I added a Bullydog Tripledog GT to it and have had no problems with it at all. Yersterday I had the oil change and this morning it start to run real ruff. The diagnostics on the GT says faults 264 and 266 both being #2 cylinder injector low circuit and contribution/balance. After reading several threads on this site I see the injectors are oil pressure operated. Can there be any ties bwtween my oilchange and this issue?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Joe

 

[ex mounty]

Did you use a motorcraft filter?
What oil are you using?
So, maybe, but I doubt that an oil change is solely responsible for the codes.

 

[-Joe-]

Thanks for the reply Ex Mounty. They used a Penzoil PZ-170 Filter and Rotella 15W40 oil.

 

[ex mounty]

Thanks for the reply Ex Mounty. They used a Penzoil PZ-170 Filter and Rotella 15W40 oil.

Wrong answer. Ford owns the patents on all the filters on the truck. There are design pieces that fit the filters that other manufacturers can not duplicate. What you may have happening is that the stock Motorcraft filter engages a poppet valve on the bottom of the filter housing. The Penzoil filter probably does not engage that valve correctly. This will leave the valve in an open state, allowing oil to drop straight to the crankcase.
Replace the oil filter with a real motorcraft filter, clear the codes and see if that fixes it.

Perhaps, if you have time, you would like to read the "basic info" link in my signature line? It will help you extend the life of your engine, if you have any interest.

 

[-Joe-]

Once again thanks, Can I just change the filter without having to drain the 15 Qts of oil?
Also I replace the fuel filters today with Puralator filters. Should there be a concern with them. After making this post and waiting for replies, I read an article were you recomend only Motorcraft filters.

 

[ex mounty]

Yes, you can change only the oil filter. It is quite easy. Its right on top of the engine, just open the cover, pull out the bad, put in the good. I would be willing to bet that your issues may just disappear afterwards.
As far as the purolator fuel filters, you already read what I think of any other filter on this particular engine.

 

[-Joe-]

Well Ex Mounty, the new filter didn't solve the problem. I guess I'm looking at an injector replacement now. :worried: Any ideas what this is gonna cost?
I have almost no acceleration power, when i went to pull the boat out of the lake today, almost wouldn't even pull up the ramp. Also the engine oil temp was running 230-235, is this normal?

Thanks,
Joe

 

[dieselmac]

Have you checked your FICM voltage and harness connections to the FICM? Before you throw a part at it, you need to do a couple quick checks.

When was the oil temp running 230-235? While you were trying to get up the ramp? or open road?

 

[-Joe-]

It was while on the road, mostly while in town, after i got the the highway at a steady speed it dropped to 220-225.
What should the voltage be at the FICM connection. I did notice that the 264 fault was a low voltage fault. I had actually seen the same fault on 1 or 2 other injectors before but after clearing them they have never reappeared, only the one for the #2 has came back and stayed.

 

[dieselmac]

Watch this.

The oil temps seem awfully high. What are your coolant temps? At operating temps running down the road, you shouldn't have more than a 15* difference. Higher than that and your oil cooler is plugging off.

 

[-Joe-]

What we we do without youtube?????:thup: I have 48.1 volts with key on-engine off and 32.3 while engine running. From what I have read this can't be good. I had the older 7 pin FCIM.
Do you think resoldier as seen here will help my cause. I am a 20 year industrial electrician with strong PLC skills, so this is not out of my realm.
http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf

Thanks,
Joe

 

[bismic]

+1 on what dieselmac said - your oil cooler is plugged. I would get it changed out quickly.

Try the FICM repair, but be aware that if you do, several of the repair shops may not give you core credit for it ....... if you wind up having to send it to someone else.

 

[dieselmac]

What we we do without youtube?????:thup: I have 48.1 volts with key on-engine off and 32.3 while engine running. From what I have read this can't be good. I had the older 7 pin FCIM.
Do you think resoldier as seen here will help my cause. I am a 20 year industrial electrician with strong PLC skills, so this is not out of my realm.
http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf

Thanks,
Joe

At least you know which way to head now.

If your electronics soldering skills are top notch, then you're certainly qualified to try the repair. A lot of guys have had good success. Others have went down in flames. For me, personally, it comes down to a money decision. If this doesn't fix it, shops like Swamps Diesel will only refund you $50 of your $350 core charge for a previously repaired FICM. Not worth it for me.

And heed Bismic's advice. Your oil cooler needs to be replaced. You're risking an EGR cooler failure which can cause all kinds of havoc up to, and including, head gasket failure. While you're in there, either delete the EGR system or replace it with an upgraded one.

 

[-Joe-]

At least you know which way to head now.

If this doesn't fix it, shops like Swamps Diesel will only refund you $50 of your $350 core charge for a previously repaired FICM. Not worth it for me.

And heed Bismic's advice. Your oil cooler needs to be replaced. You're risking an EGR cooler failure which can cause all kinds of havoc up to, and including, head gasket failure. While you're in there, either delete the EGR system or replace it with an upgraded one.

Is Swamps Diesel a reputable company to purchaase from? Also they have a 48V and 58V FICM. Would the 58V be worth getting. I know I don't want the flash as I am running the the Triple Dog GT and don"t believe it can be run with any other electronic upgrades.

As far as the Oil Cooler, there is no way that this running condition could cause my high oil temps? I was not having any issues until this FICM problem.
I am planning on doing away with the EGR. Have been lookng at the Sinnester EGR delete kit, Any thoughts on them or is there a better recommendation?

 

[ex mounty]

Is Swamps Diesel a reputable company to purchaase from? Also they have a 48V and 58V FICM. Would the 58V be worth getting. I know I don't want the flash as I am running the the Triple Dog GT and don"t believe it can be run with any other electronic upgrades.

As far as the Oil Cooler, there is no way that this running condition could cause my high oil temps? I was not having any issues until this FICM problem.
I am planning on doing away with the EGR. Have been lookng at the Sinnester EGR delete kit, Any thoughts on them or is there a better recommendation?

Swamps diesel probably has THE best reputation out there rebuilding FICM's.

Their "performance upgrade" will work with any and all tuners. Tuners over-ride the programming in the ECM, the performance flash that Swaps installs is on the FICM itself and will only add to your tunes.
Sinister has a decent reputation for their EGR deletes. I, and many guys on another forum, chose a different one right off e-bay that runs $150 from Dicad solutions. It has all you need.
You may or may not get the "flow code" that will set a CEL. The better tuners (SCT) will be able to write out the EGR valve functions. I highly suggest leaving the EGR valve in the intake, since the EGR cooler is deleted, the valve will not be able to open the passages, so what is the point of removing it? There is also some evidence that removing the EGR valve will have a detrimental effect on your fan control.

EDIT: replace your oil cooler before other issues compound the issues you already have. No, these can not be the underlying cause of high oil temps.

 

[-Joe-]

I like the Dicad bypass kit. Especially considering it is $150 cheaper. Is there anything special I need to know on replacing and ordering an oil cooler?

 

[ex mounty]

Shoot me a PM with your e-mail addy, I can send you some pdf files that will interest you.

 

[dieselmac]

There are a few options. You can get the re-build kit from Tousley Ford for about $215 (cheapest price, btw). It re-uses the aluminum housing but replaces all the other parts. This is what you would get if Ford did the job. There's nothing wrong with the OEM oil cooler. Just the coolant that runs through it.

You could go with a Bullet Proof Oil Cooler that changes the system from a liquid / liquid exchanger to a liquid / air exchanger. I believe ExMounty did this and can provide you some details and benefits. Downside is cost. I believe you're looking at about $2000.

Lastly, whatever you do, get rid of the Ford Gold coolant unless you're diligent enough to keep up with the coolant checks and flushes. Go with an ELC type coolant.