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The other day I went to start my 1997 ford f250hd 7.3l 193,000 miles, in the morning and it would crank but not start. The temp was about 64 degrees. I got a p0380 and p0381 code. Later in the day it warmed up to about 80 and it started. I changed out the gpr and that disnt seem to fix it. It would not start even when it was warmer out. An i had just driven it. Instead I heard the IDM relay clicking rapidly when I turn the key to the on position. Not sure where to go from here? Should I test the glow plugs? I checked the batteries and they had 13 volts. In installing and removing the new GPr. The gpr I got was a cheap one. I bought a white Rodgers an look to install that one. Since I over tightened one of the connections and cracked the cheap one. Not sure where to go with this next. Not sure why when I changed the relay it made it worse. And why it made the idm click rapidly.
 

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I'd test the glow plugs and check the battery voltage when you are cranking on it.

A clicking relay usually indicates low voltage.

From the codes I presume that it is a California truck?
 

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I will try that next. I pulled the connector off the valve cover for the plugs and one of the connectors was melted on the outside pin. I'm not sure what happened to that or why that happened? But I believe its to the number 1 glow plug.
 

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That is a very common problem with our years of trucks. Usually when the pins get burnt like that they start causing problems with the next pin over which is a injector pin.

If you want to take care of it there are a couple of ways to do it. The simplest is to just get a repair harness and splice it in. if the valve cover pass through connector is bad then that usually means a new gasket, there used to be a repair kit for it but I am not sure if it is even still made. You would need to check with a International dealer to find out. The other fix is to go to the 99+ years of trucks wiring and gaskets. They only have a single connection into the valve cover gasket and is quite a improved design.
 

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That is better news that I am on the right track of things ha. I was able to find a set online. I'm not sure if there is a specific brand thats better or not. But this is what I found.
 

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That's a good price, but I would wonder about the quality of the gaskets, wiring, and connectors.

With the Ford parts you would pay that much just for the valve cover gaskets and another $25 or so dollars for the external wire connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do you know possibly a brand or site that would provide a better quality?
I will keep looking
 

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Every site that I know of that carries the gaskets and wiring are going to be quite a bit more expensive. Diesel O Rings, Riffraft Diesel, and a few others charge that much for just the valve cover gasket but it is a Motorcraft part. NAPA carries aftermarket ones but again you are looking at $65 just for the gasket.

But on the cost you never know, the parts in your link may be just fine. You never know.
 

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Thats a good point. Just have to take a chance I guess. Ha thank you for the advice! Much appreciated
 

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I put Dorman gaskets on mine several months ago. They've worked fine every time since then, and they have a lifetime warranty.

(phone app link)
 

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So nlw I'm not sure what to do. I changed out the GPR and then that made things worse. Now it just cranks and no start. Where before I could get it to crank an then start up. Still difficult but it could be done. I changed out the relay, changed out the gllw plugs, changed the wiring harness and gasket out. The IDM relay still clicks when i turn key on. Still have hard start. Next I will load test the batteries. I get 12.7 volts tested with multimeter. But looks like batteries have a small leak. Very small. I'm wondering if the batteries are bad. Or is it something in the wiring that led to the gpr. Because it got worse once I changed the relay. Or is it thay my batteries could just be weak feom trying to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hooked multimeter to battery an it was at 12.58 volts. Turned the key on and it dropped to 11.2 volts
 

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Then that one battery that you checked is weak; either because it's not being charged fully (which is why you need to check BOTH across the posts AND across the terminals while the engine is running), or because they're damaged internally. This is the only kind of meter that most battery & vehicle mfrs. accept for warranty claims, because it's so accurate:

(phone app link)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I changed both the passenger side and driver side glow plugs, valve cover gasket with under valve cover wiring harness and the relay. And my truck runs rough. Now I can smell, what smells like unburnt diesel and I can see smoke out the exhaust. That is more of a grayish blue now. What is going on? Could some of my injectors be bad? The grayish blue smoke would be oil correct? In idle it looked white and then i took it for a drive and when accelerating. I saw greyish blue smoke coming out the exhaust. I still get the same codes. But I probably don't have a good enough code reader.
 
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