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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, first post long time lurker.
About a week ago I picked up a one owner 03 E-350 extended with the 7.3 and 95k miles for 6k couldnt pass that up. Van seems to run great, after sorting out some strange stuff from the P/o. A lot of random fuses were missing(OD Kickdown, turn signal fuse). Got that sorted and all is well.

Did an oil change with Rotella and all seems to be well. Got it home and pulled the ladder rack as well as the interior shelving to prep for a moto van build. There was some expected rust under the OEM floor mat as well as a nice hole by the rear tire well. Being a north east truck its got some rust issues.

Rear calipers were rusted to hell and stuck, so they also got replaced.

I need it to be a reliable long distance vehicle. Rear end is 3.55 so its getting pretty good fuel mileage on the highway. Going to the mechanic to get the holes in the floor welded up this week. Pulling no codes Via torque pro, turbo is putting out about 12PSI so that seems to be healthy.

Diamond Eye 4 inch arrives today(no muffler) as well as header wrap for the up pipes and the down pipe to help with drone. I plan on doing gauges and a tuner from DP in a few weeks.

Current Issues:
Brown coolant in resivour(what would cause that?)
rust...lots of rust...Right rear rocker is pretty well shot
tie rods are questionable
I Beam sway bar bushings are shot
Probably needs shocks
AC doesnt blow cold
Cranks a little longer than I'd like before it starts

Where should I start going through this thing? I assume do a trans fluid replacement is probably a good idea.
 

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Change your fuel filter to be safe.

I have an 03 motovan as well with 247K!

from the looks of things your engine will outlast your body!

good find
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Change your fuel filter to be safe.

I have an 03 motovan as well with 247K!

from the looks of things your engine will outlast your body!

good find
Thats on the to do list. How hard is it to change on the vans? My only expirence with the 7.3 was in an OBS, I assume the fuel filter is in the same location.

Also ordered up an intake off amazon to hack up. Its 4 inch, and I was thinking that it should slide right into turbo inlet boot with some massaging and cutting. Torque pro was saying the intake temp was well over 100 degrees stock, so i figure it wont hurt it sucking in air from under the hood. especially with the up pipes, and down pipe wrapped. May look into doing a turbo blanket also to keep under hood temps down.
 

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I would suggest every single fluid needs to be replaced.
I very recently did all of mine.
I finally have all my guages working and it's running perfect.

5 Star Tuning did 3 custom tunes for me.
Outstanding. Pulls hard and getting 20 mpg hwy.

Check my thread out...



Nice find, keep it for a long time, you'll be happy.
 

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I would think the (brown) color you mentioned in the coolant would just be typical of coolant that
has not been R&R'ed since the vehicle was new. So a full coolant flush job is on your list of (to do's).
There are a couple of threads on here about the best way to do it.
I am surprised no one has said anything about your decision to put that new intake on.
There have been numerous discussions about that subject as well. I am talking specifically
about vans. I am NOT going to go into all the positives & negatives. I will just say that I have
NEVER heard of just slapping something like what you linked to on the intake and not having
there be plenty of posts about what's wrong with doing it or all the issues it might cause. I do
believe I have read that short of some pretty fancy re-designs, The stock filters and air box are
(sufficient) for a stock or slightly tuned engine. Don't get me wrong. Their NOT the best they could be
BUT the list of possible issues with just throwing a single unit on as you are doing USUALLY, gets plenty
of suggestions of the problems you are going to run into. Everyone that's tried to build a better air
intake (IN VANS) has run into the same big issue to start. There's just not enough extra room under there.
This (usually) results in a design from scratch intake/box & filters. If I am miss spoken here I wish someone will
correct me. I have not seen (or read on this forum) any aftermarket air intake's specifically designed to
replace the OEM unit that anyone has recommended was a great change they made. Some have custom designed
hood scoops or tubes leading to the fender well area but again, If there was an aftermarket design out there
that was worth anything (that worked better than OEM) I think (we) would have heard something about it.
Sorry, not wanting to rain on your party. Just want to bring up what (seems) to me to be something that you
(might) regret. Someone else PLEASE way in here. I'm no intake air/filter expert. Just been reading this forum
for quite some time & have never seen/read any easy (fixed my intake air problem) posts. LOL DDT
 

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Diesel dog is 100% correct on above statement....some members have done it....I will do it as soon as I find a fabricator to make my design...It involves a Functional Hood scoop with a "T" style intake ...I already have a spare Hood to cut so maybe this winter I will find someone who can weld aluminium....To the OP : If you want my drawings PM me and I will send them to you ...
PS: I just clicked on the link you provided and I believe that one is too small ....( filters) It does not list any dimensions as well I think the Filters I sourced are around 8" long each and the Stock hose is Oval at the Filterbox to clear the HPOP resevoir....It might fit however...
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Intake is on and good. Had to get a little creative with it, but it went on with zero issues. Just a few trips to the parts store. Cut the stock inlet tube just past the oval and that left me with a 3 inch ID intake tube. The tubing for the aftermarket intake was 3.5 inches so I used a reducer and had no problems. Relocated the Intake temp sensor to the intake using a supplied hole that was already there. As far as the filters go, they could be a bit bigger, but due to the lack of space it all fit in there perfectly. I've been keeping an eye on intake temps VIA torque pro, and had no increase. They stay around ambient air temps. I did wrap my up pipes, as well as down pipe when I did the 4 inch turbo back. I needed to do filters any how, and seeing as this was cheaper than doing K&N's in the stock box it seemed like a decent way to go. As far as incresed flow? Who knows. I've thought about doing a hood scoop, but being in the North East I'm not willing to deal with possible water issues on a motor with so much electrical stuff going on.

When I did the down pipe my up pipes were leaking(no surpise there) so i bandaided it with a set of stock donuts. I'll do the International kit whenever I have everything apart again. Ford could have used anti Seize on the turbo exhaust inlet as every one of the bolts broke off. Used some heat and they all came right out. Replaced with stock bolts and antiseized for the next time I have to pull it apart. The Diamond Eye 4 inch with no muffler is quite a bit louder than I expected, and I'll probably be slapping a muffler on.
 

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Glad its all working out.
 

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Every time I've tried to go muffler-less, I've wound up with a bad drone at about 60 to 65 mph.

A straight through Magnaflow solved it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Every time I've tried to go muffler-less, I've wound up with a bad drone at about 60 to 65 mph.

A straight through Magnaflow solved it.
Really got to put the van through its paces yesterday. Flat towed a Jeep Commander about 120 miles through some really horrible mountain roads. Truck did awesome. Got 15 MPG. The Strait pipe though was almost intolerable when towing. I dont find it annoying at all when not loaded though. Ordering up a muffler asap. Here's a pic of my intake temps, as well as a pic of the intake installed. They were right around 80 degrees being around 75 degrees ambient temp. Please excuse the tape. I had to seal one of the bungs and its a temp fix till i can get a plug. All in all the intake was a breeze to install and total materials was under 60 bucks. I'll put a write up on here shortly if anyone is interested. Would something at is True CAI be better? Sure, but this works, its cheap and easy.

 

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That looks really cool, but cant help wonder if there is any filter media surface area increase.
 

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I have to say....I must have not looked at the correct photo the first time I commented about
your intake. I thought you only had 1 of those filters for the whole intake. I didn't see that it
split out into two. I agree it looks pretty cool.(That's cool as in groovy). It would seem hard to
think that the intake air is cooler (in that it is being drawn directly from under the hood vs. the
OEM set up that draws the air from the forward facing scoops up towards the front of the engine,
presumably from cooler outside rammed air), But your numbers seem to indicate a close to outside
ambient temp. On the other hand it's not a 90 degree hot summer day. Besides what bbasso & bork
mention about surface area of these new filters. I would be interested to know (make sure) what
micron level they are rated to filter to. I can't say I remember the suggested numbers for keeping
things clean further down the system but I am sure there is a maximum size specification for this.
I didn't see anything on the linked page that spelled out the spec. Having said all that I DO think it looks
really good AND seems like it opens up some area under the hood (IE: it's smaller & takes up less room
than theOEM system). Looks easier to disconnect/remove also then the OEM system. And it's going to be
a heck of a lot cheaper to clean those than to replace the OEM's. Though I suggest you use soap & water
and NOT the "soup & water" they suggested on the site! LOL DDT
I'm just starting to read about what I (think) those gauge's are. Is That an "app" for a smart phone or something
completely different. I have not got to anything yet that explains just what that is. Just a lot about how to set up
new titles (names) for certain things & the "PID's"...
Maybe what I should really ask is this.....I already have a SCAN GAUGE. Do I really need this?
It looks real cool BUT I also don't have a smart phone or android or apple tablet. Just a Dell Insperion running
windows 8. I don't think any of the "apps" that are so (cool) and new ones coming out every day work with
just plain old laptops. Do they? DDT
 

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http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/3900970-post153.html
It's called torque pro app. (Small fee). I've been using it for a really long time now basically since it came out and it's nearly perfect but you have to have an Android smartphone that can read an obd2 bluetooth dongle.
In my honest opinion I think it's leaps and bounds better than the ScanGauge I used to have.
 

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That is exactly what I want to do with the exception of a real cold Air Intake..A cowl Inuction Hood Is what I think ...Awesome you could get it together with off the shelf parts... I would Absolutely go straight pipe...anything after the Turbo Outlet means Dick ....wrapping the Downpipe is retarded... remember it is a Diesel...Unless you have Upgraded Injectors with the proper Tuning and a T500 you are wasting money...I really like what you are doing ...
keep it up...:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Couldnt take the strait pipe. Ripped it out and replaced with Diamond Eye's 30inch muffler. Much better. Turbo sound is still there, no drone. On a truck im sure the strait pipe would be fine. Van with zero insulation... no bueno. Next up, coolant flush, trans fluid replacement(should I bother with the filter? I dont really want to pull the pan.) fuel filter replacement. And getting after some steering issues. Holes in the floor will be fixed on tuesday.
 

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Magnefine is good for ferrous metals, but wont help on all the other stuff. If your going thru trouble of oil, do the filter, it's close to 100k mi, so why wait. Tranny oil is not as cheap as it once was. The pan gasket is reusable, & filter easy to do.
 

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Heckuva deal. Congrats !

One advantage to dropping the pan is to inspect the magnet.
 

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Magnefine is good for ferrous metals, but wont help on all the other stuff. If your going thru trouble of oil, do the filter, it's close to 100k mi, so why wait. Tranny oil is not as cheap as it once was. The pan gasket is reusable, & filter easy to do.

And if you do change that filter, never use a cloth rag on the underside of the tranny. Paper only.
 
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