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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for the long post, I’ve been working on this for 2 months now.
So I have a 2001 Ford F250 with the 7.3 L diesel in it and I was leaking oil out of the turbo pedestal and the driver side valve cover so I went in to repair both of those and the install went fairly easy for both a EBPV delete pedestal and new UVCHs. I also did glow plugs while I was in there. After this I went to fire up my truck and it didn't sound happy at all it was popping out of the exhaust and misfiring and overall just did not sound good enough to be running for very long. I pulled everything back apart and re-checked all the connections to the injectors and I saw that all the injectors were probably plugged in and none of the pins were bent on any of the connections so I want to go on test from the IDM to the to the 42 pin and then I found that the common ground was grounding out on injectors two and eight. I replace the new UVCH with the old one that I pulled out which is a known good one and re-tested it and it showed the same bad result. I then went to check all of the wiring harness on top of the engine as well as any other wiring from the IDM to the injectors and I cannot find any broken or garnered out wires on any connections or any bare wires in the locations that I was looking at. And then went to go to get new injectors for cylinders to an eight and then I installed those in the passed a buzz test and also pass the IDM to the injectors on the ohm test. I went to go start my truck up again and it was smoking a lot when I first fired up which was expected since I did injectors and then they continue to smoke and misfire even when warm and it just continually poured out white smoke out of the tailpipe. After that I went in again to inspect the injector cups and I found that the injector cups in cylinders 2, 4 and 8 were all failed so I pulled those and install stainless steel ones from riffraff diesel. I did all eight of these injector cups. I inspected all injectors that were polled and most of them had O-rings that failed which would make sense for a truck that is 20 years old and I was 150,000 miles on it I figured it was time for new injectors. ThenI went to full force diesel to get stage one injectors. I put everything back together and went to go far of the truck again and they blew plenty of smoke out the tailpipe which is expecting with all Aiden Jak has been replaced and then it ran perfect for about 10 seconds and then started to misfire again. I started running through all the parts that could’ve gone wrong rechecked all my connections and make sure everything was hooked up properly and as far as I know everything looks to be done right so I checked my ICP pressure while cranking and it was within spec. My tachometer works so that leads me to believe that my CPS is good. My IPR does have a little bit of oil on the plug but I wouldn’t think that it would cause my truck to start ok and then run bad. I did another buzz test and saw that injector one had failed but it’s very confusing to me because when I buzz the injectors that all sound very similar if not the same. This is including all the buzz test that I’ve done prior to this. I figured it must be a computer problem at this point saying is that the bus does have been very inconsistent so I got a new IDM from riffraff diesel as well and I put that in. And yet again the exact same symptoms happened where it started out good and it ran fine for a small amount of time but then started misfiring again. I just ordered a fuel pressure gauge from glow shift and I am waiting to put that in before I have any more information for diagnostics.
 

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Put the wallet down and pop a Coors.
Lets break this down into pieces.

So you had a good running engine before all this started except you had oil in the Valley?

You replaced the turbo pedestal and UVCH and GPs?

(Sidetrack: Curious if you used Motorcraft parts for UVCH and GPs?)

Engine was “not happy” so you removed the new UVCH and re-installed the old?

You are able to perform a Buzz Test.
What device/diagnostic tool are you using?
 
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I agree - stop adding pieces to the puzzle. When you do X and Y happens - don't chase Z as the cause. Now that you've changed a lot of Zs, we have to consider they may have added to the issue. For example - you say you went with Stage 1 injectors, but I don't see where you got the single-shot programming done. Stage 1s will run like crap on split shot programming.

Still - you need to make sure of the wiring of the injectors. I really don't see how you could have done it, but it almost sounds like two cylinders are swapped on the wiring. That would have taken a lot of effort - but I guess in theory you could have gotten a miswired UVCH. Or possibly installed the gasket upside down? I personally would start with another IDM wiring test. Ohm the pin that is supposed to go to injector 1 to injector 1, 2 to 2, etc. Make sure we don't have a cross somewhere. Triple check the harness where the 42 pin rides over the driver's side valve cover - those are known chaffe points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Arctic,
Yes the engine ran fine before I worked on it.
Yes I only originally went in to replace turbo pedestal, GP’s, and UVCH’s. I’m using Alliant UVCH and diesel rx GP’s (recommended by the guys at Thoroughbred Diesel)
I reinstalled the old UVCH only to see if it would pass the ohm test and since I had the same results I put the new ones back on since those should not be leaking anything.
Thanks for the quick reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RT,
I think we’re all agreeing that I’ve replaced too many parts at this point. I got my tuning done from Full Force when I ordered the injectors and I triple checked that I sent them the right PCM code. I’ll start ohm testing again today. I don’t think I could install the gaskets upside down because of how they are designed (if I did I’ll buy you your next night at the bar).
Thanks for the insight, it’s refreshing having some people with a clear head look at this.
 

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Plain jane 1995 F-250 Powerstroke. No mods, zip, zero, nada.
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Inspect your valve cover at the harness connector for burn mark/ harness chaffing. Unplug the harness connector, inspect that harness for burned/chaffed wire and repair it. After that, bend the mount bracket a little, to get the harness and connector to clear the valve cover. Reconnect harness, inspect for rubbing/touching at valve cover again with mirror if you need to for clearance. It is a common problem for 2001 & 2002 7.3L Powerstroke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update: I ohm tested from the IDM and it showed that the passenger side was grounding out. I pulled the UVCH and it looks good. I then pulled the entire engine harness out and am pulling it apart. There are several wires that are bare and even more that are cracking and on their way out. So I will be ordering a new one of those since most of it is not repairable with the tools I have.

I also saw that another guy had similar issues a month ago and he said it ended up being a fuel check valve. Any thoughts on that? I'm not sure since it throws codes like it is but his was also was throwing plenty of codes at him. I have been looking for these for while and cannot seem to find any stock ones, only "high flow" ones that are just hollow.
 

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Any chance the hpop is not keeping up, what numbers are you getting
 

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Good luck finding a new replacement engine harness. Those are like chickens with lips. ;)
I think your only hope is a wrecking yard. And finding the right one of various configurations makes even that difficult. Maybe develop some wiring repair skills. There are terminals and crimpers available. Good luck.
Shorts between those bare wires will wreak all kinds of havoc. Especially high voltage injector circuits versus 5V control circuits.

I doubt it's the fuel check valves. They'd have to be totally clogged to restrict fuel enough to cause problems. You could change them out, but I really don't think it would solve your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any chance the hpop is not keeping up, what numbers are you getting
I got around 2500 Kpa (360 psi) on the IPR while cranking for a couple seconds I only have 150k on the hpop but I could have a bad IPR or ICP?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good luck finding a new replacement engine harness. Those are like chickens with lips. ;)
I think your only hope is a wrecking yard. And finding the right one of various configurations makes even that difficult. Maybe develop some wiring repair skills. There are terminals and crimpers available. Good luck.
Shorts between those bare wires will wreak all kinds of havoc. Especially high voltage injector circuits versus 5V control circuits.

I doubt it's the fuel check valves. They'd have to be totally clogged to restrict fuel enough to cause problems. You could change them out, but I really don't think it would solve your problem.
Riffraff has new ones that are supposed to line up with whatever vin you give them. I called the Ford dealer and the parts guy couldn’t find any check valves at the heads but said they have the pressure regulator at the bowl in stock. I’m not super sure how the check valves function even after trying to do some homework on it. Seems like a whole lot of pieces for the “simple engine” it’s advertised as
 

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I did not know that Riffraff sold main engine harnesses. That's good to know. They definitely aren't cheap, though. Unless the damage to yours is extensive, I would personally consider repairing the one I have.
 
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