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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would sure appreciate some advice on this problem. I don't know if pedestal is cracked/warped or the seal is leaking on the compressor side. Turbine side looks dry high up. I replaced the orings on the pedestal and block. Oil is leaking in the valley between the Ebpv barrel and the block where the turbo is mounted. Can't see it but it looks high up near the base of the turbo I think. I did not put a dial indicator on the shaft but there does not appear to be in/out play. There is some radial shaft movement maybe 1/16 in. but nothing is binding when I spin it. No oil residual on turbine fins. No oil pooling on the compressor side. No leaks at idle only after it's been ridden. Leaks about 2 quarts every 300 miles and getting worse. Need the truck for the weekend to haul horses. Body is taking a punishment but it looks like it's coming off one more time. Please help; need travel to pick up parts tomorrow if needed.

Nathan

1996 F350 CC 4by4 259000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Found it. Cracked center housing. Any ideas now. I need a seal kit; and center housing I guess. Tried getting the turbine shell off but it looks coked up and won't budge. How hard can I whack the thing; dead blow does not seem to be breaking it loose. What's a new turbo worth??? Running out of time. Thanks.

1996 F350 CC 4by4 259000 miles.
 

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Hey Nathan!

I am not aware of people having a problem with the pedestal cracking and leaking oil without some kind of provocation, doesn't mean it hasn't or that you are not the first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif ...

Seems that if you lost the compressor side seal and are losing 2 quarts of oil in 300 miles, you'd have plenty of evidence in the outlet end of the compressor and I'd think you'd have blue smokey exhaust...???

The other thought was that you said you did plug the EBPV actuator rod hole. When I did that, using a pipe plug, I was cautioned not to overtighten the pipe plug as I could crack the pedestal as the pipe plugs are tapered. If you used a pipe plug, you might want to look into this possibility....

Good luck and God Bless,

TC

BTW: I feel your pain about pulling the turbo repeatedly! 1st time) Replacing the fuel pump and resealing the intakes, 2nd) Installing a 1.0 housing, 3rd) Tapping and plugging the EBPV actuator rod hole, 4th-last weekend) Putting 1.15 housing back on!
 

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The guy that I bought my rebuilt turbo from said he has seen a lots of center sections crack. I dont have more info but I know that there is an updated center section for turbos available that is stronger and wont crack. MIne has the onld style but is was CHEAP! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for your help fellows. Due to lack of time to wait for a centre housing I ended up getting a rebuilt c/w pedestal $1300 bucks canadian with the core. Only one I could find in short order.

TC; yes I did put in a tapered plug into the actuator rod hole but there was no evidence of a leak there.

They now have my modified pedestal. With the new one I will just disconnect the actuator rod to the EBPV flapper and I will put the gutted EBPV exhaust coller back on and leave everything else as is for warranty coverage (1 year). Good to go.

1996 F350 CC 4by4 259000 miles.
 
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