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So last night, after I replaced the clutch slave/master cylinder assembly, I went to test drive it. I started it up, and it immediately shut of (just as if I had turned the key off). Just a note, it ran perfect before I changed this out, and since the clutch slave/master cylinder assembly is self contained, this obviously seems like a comepletely unrelated issue, but probably caused by something I did during install.

I can't see anything visibly wrong in the area I was working in. after searching this site, I tried unplugging the ICP sensor-same problem.

After a coworker brought it up, I am starting to think it's an oil pressure relay (or maybe some other relay). After it sits for a while and I attempt starting it, it starts up and runs for a second or two (literally). But, if I attempt to restart it two or three times, it will just crank.

I don't know...I am at a loss with it. It confuses me more that it happened out of the blue after I was working on a self contained system and didn't touch anything else.

Another note, I thought it was the clutch switch at first. The previous owner had taped it up since it had cracked somehow. So I replaced that thinking it must have been damaged further during the maintenance I did. Still had the same problem...which sucked, because that thing was a PITA to change with the bar installed.

Lengthy post, but I didn't want to leave anything out. The truck is a 2003 F-350 with 7.3L and a manual trans. with 167K miles. I encourage all input, as I have no clue where to go from here! Thanks guys.
 

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When you crank, does the rpm needle increase/bounce around or does it remain at zero?

If it remains at zero, it could be the cam position sensor. Though, I had that problem, and it turned out to be the oil pressure regulator (IPR) was stuck open.

When you crank and crank, do you get white smoke?

Without an ability to read codes, it will be tough to figure it out.

Wouldn't be a clutch safety switch, it wouldn't let the truck even crank.
 

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Welcome to TheDieselStop :)

Have you verified that fuel is getting to the fuel filter? Do that by opening the drain valve and turning the key to on position. Based on your description, it sounds like it may not be getting fuel.

There's no oil pressure relay, just the pressure switch that reports whether the oil pressure is above about 7 psi and registers mid-range on the gauge if it is.
 

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Yes, RPM gauge moves. I swapped in my spare CPS just to be sure with no avail. I don't crank it long enough to see white smoke. If it sit for more than a few minutes it will start right up and idle for a second or two (literally), then shut off just as if I turned the key off. There is no stuttering or anything like that. I also hear the fuel pump run everytime I turn the key.

I'm really hoping I don't have to take this into the shop, I hate doing that!
 

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Update: jiggled a bundle of wires by the firewall and it runs like new again. So I've got a short somewhere...at least I know the problem now!
 

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JUST A THOUGHT... Have you tried disconnecting your negative battery cable for 10 minutes or so, to kill power to the brain of the truck... Then when you plug the negative cable back in, it's like a fresh start for the computer... Never know, could just be you bumped something in the harness while repairing what you did... NOt sure, but it only takes a few minutes to give it a shot... Best of luck... But sounds completely weird to me as well... :thumbsup:
 

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Hi, Given the area you are working in with the clutch, it may be a chaffed wire on the bottom of the 42 wire square connector that goes across the drivers valve cover. Easy to remove. Take the brightest light you have and carefully inspect the wires that may have contacted the valve cover. If you see small glint of copper, there's your sign :)

Tape them up individually and then tape the harness closer to the plug.


Good Luck

Coolhand
 
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