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Discussion Starter #21
I thought they were quick disconnects but mine are as melted (the collar) I couldn't get them apart.
 

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That's a check valve to prevent reverse flow into the HPOP. The plate should be toward the HPOP and the spring toward the hose. If you install it the other way, you won't get any oil flow to the heads. The spring is to close the port to reverse flow.
And yes, the HPOP lines will swivel even though the hex fitting is tight.
The collar being melted on the Quick Connect Fitting shouldn't be a problem. You need a thin tool to push into the gap between the fitting and the collar to release them.
Oh, and definitely replace the o-rings on the fittings when you reassemble. They should be Viton material to work properly, not hardware store stuff, which will be Buna-N. Viton o-rings are available at a hydraulics shop or online from HERE. Or from Ford for big $$.
 

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I am glad you pulled those. We had a guy on here about a decade ago that had a horrible running truck and it turned out one of those check valves was in backward. There is no harm in leaving them out completely. You are actually instructed to leave them out if you use upgraded hoses from CNC fab or if you buy a modified pump like the Adrenaline. I personally wouldn't put them back in. You very likely have damaged the o-rings on the quick disconnect and the ones for the fitting need replacement as well.
 

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RT: I also have a beer & burger for you if you are ever in Rhode Island area (currently). Not just for what you did here with BRBCNG, But for ALL the time & information you have given to all of us here on the site. As well there are a few other dedicated members (I can't name them all), that I wish I could buy a beer for. I have learned SOOOO Much from this site & specific members! Easily worth much more than the price of beer & BBQ! For now I just say Thank You. DDT
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Good morning guys. So RT you are never gonna guess what I found. The check valve plate has wear marks on it of it being forced against the line fitting. When I pulled it out yesterday, after I removed the line, the plate was facing out of the HPOP. The valve I believe was backwards. If I am understanding correctly, once I removed the line the spring should have been facing out and it wasn't. Also it was the fitting going into the HPOP that was so loose I could turn it by hand.

This site is amazing and I have learned so much from all of you!! Again thank you to RT and everyone else!!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Here you can see where it was pressed up against the "LINE" fitting. This little plate was facing out of the HPOP as shown in the picture
158860
 

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I sure hope that's it. Seems UPS has royally screwed up overnight delivery. Your package appears to be vacationing in Louisville Kentucky. Here's the tracking number in case anyone out there has any UPS connections. 1ZRX92250150017215
 

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Discussion Starter #28
RT: So I went ahead and started looking at my poppet clearance on my injectors and found they are way off. I could not get a .002 feeler gauge in them. Do you know a good place to order a shim kit from? All I am finding is Chinese crap on Amazon.
 

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That’s the kit I use as well. Truckrental is the seller. Good guy.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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As per Bob's (dieselorings) suggestion, I have re-ordered the o-rings. If you get the first package later and are able to, refuse delivery. If not, we'll need to mail them back to him with a tracking number to get reimbursed. I included the o-rings to rebuild the quick connect fittings in the second package so you can get those back together leak-free. I'll post the tracking as soon as it ships today.

Edit - Bob got the new package label ready - 1ZRX92250150009171
 

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I am wondering about the loose line into the HPOP. Is it loose because someone didn't tighten it up properly last time they took it apart (and obviously put the spring/plate/anti-drain back in), OR did (they) strip out the threads? This is an aluminum body (the HPOP) right? And I have heard that one needs to use great care/caution when tightening up those input fittings for the quick disconnect lines. The level of care (or lack thereof), seems painfully obvious with the backwards anti drain back spring/plates. Hopefully what I am saying is NOT the issue. Short of just forgetting to tighten it up, I never heard any reports of those fittings having a (tendency) to loosen up of their own accord. Sounds like someone that was a real "hack" of a mechanic messed things up for you. Hopefully you get it all worked out. That backwards spring/plate sure would have been a BIG part of your issues! DDT
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I checked all the fitting threads into the HPOP and they look fine. I could thread the fitting right back in and get it tight. I believe this was total lack of caring when the PO put it back together. Starting to think they had no idea what they were doing.
 

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On the hpop fittings you should use Loctite 680 retaining compound after first making sure the threads on both parts are spotless and dry. (pull the IPR to drain)
 

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I still think bad injector o-rings could cause this. Especially now that you've mentioned the driver's side is getting plenty of oil. The reason is, the ICP sensor only detects pressure on that side. If the torn o-ring is on the passenger side, there will be no oil pressure over there and the ICP sensor will never know about it. PM me your address and I'll even buy the orings and have them sent to you. It's not a terrible job and there are plenty of tutorials out there. Here's one - https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/cont...el_7.3L_Injector_Replacement_Instructions.pdf
intend to concur on o-rings if someone pulled those injectors so many variables go in affect from stacked wrong .install botched.oem just woreout.yank em and ck em.
 

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Any updates? Did you get the parts installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
First off I want to say a HUGE HUGE HUGE thank you from my family and I to everyone that has helped with this. RT you are a lifesaver and I am in debt to you for this and one way or another I will pay you back! I am sorry I have not been posting updates I have been knee deep in putting this truck back together. I finished up this afternoon and just fired it up for the first time.

Truck ran amazing......for about 5 minutes. Didn't even have to crank it over but 2 times and it fired right up. I let it idle and push out air and then it started doing the same exact thing. During the first 5 minutes it had instant throttle response, didn't sputter or shake one bit. Then after about 5 minutes I hear the motor tone change so I give it a little skinny petal and the moment I release it starts surging in idle exactly as it did before and died. Fire it back up and idle starts bouncing and HPOP is doing the same thing.

This time I happen to leave my digital battery charger on while it was running and when I shut the truck off it's only reading 12.8 volts. That is not right. I am wondering if this whole time this truck has not been getting enough volts. Me not knowing this is my next question. All that I am reading says this isn't enough and could not be sending enough volts to the injectors. Is that correct? Also I am going to change the oil. What should I run?

AGAIN THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU FOR THE HELP!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I also forgot to mention, I got the shim kit and did the injectors also. Most of them were .002 out. I rebuilt the HPOP lines and resealed them with loctite thread locker. No leaks anywhere. I also noticed my fuel pressure is now a 70.
 

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Unplug the ICP sensor (front inner aspect of driver's side head) and see if it runs better. It will throw a code, but that's ok. If that doesn't work, unplug the EBP sensor. That's on the tube that comes up in front of the front cover near the water pump. Have you ever changed your CPS? That can cause all sorts of mystery ailments. I sure wish you were close enough to run over and put a scanner on it for you.

Also - it's going to run rough for the first 60 miles after having the high pressure oil system open. You have to get all the air out of the lines before it will have even oil pressure to all the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I already tried unplugging the ICP and it runs way worse. I did change the CPS way back with a black dorman. Is the voltage I mentioned to low? Seems like the more the alternator spins at higher RPM in-turn making more amps it runs better.
 
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