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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 F250 SD xlt 7.3l. I took my bully dog programmer off my truck and now I am having a bunch of issues even though I followed the instructions step by step. Now, when she reaches operating temperature I have difficulty shifting. Eventually she will lose all power, idle rough, and blow white smoke. The only thing I have found to be able to do is let her cool down again then drive. I also attempted to run codes using my scan tool, and while doing the key on, engine running test, the wire from the Air intake heater relay to the actual heater element on the intake manifold caught fire. There is also a lot of issues with just trying to get key on, engine off codes. However, I got them once and there were no codes being thrown. The engine light also does not come on. I feel like the pcm is still trying to operate as if the programmer is hooked up, but its not. I no longer have that programmer so it's not as easy as hooking it back up. My best guess is to have a dealership reflash the pcm back to the stock files. Anybody have any other suggestions?
 

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Check the price of a reflash then see what the local scrap yard has. These trucks are getting easier and easier to find parts for... you might be able to get out of the situation for 30 bucks.
 

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Sounds complicated. Do you think some wired got damaged somewhere along the line? I've ran a bully programmer and never had issues with it. I prefer my edge chip as it seems it works the turbo more and the bully worked the engine... you say you have problems shifting? Is it a auto or manual? Heat can damage your trans. Mostly on autos even tho the standard is cooled through the radiator they are a little stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Funny thing happened today, my buddy needed a jump. While in the process, it seemed like my truck was not charging his. Long story short, found out my alternator is only pushing 11.92V. I disconnected the spare battery and quickly watched the voltage on the P/S battery drop to around 5V in roughly 5 minutes, then the truck started missing and died. Same symptoms as when I am driving. I am having the alternator tested tomorrow, also going to replace all of the battery cables (mine are old and the ends are corroded). Hopefully this will solve all my problems.
 

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Bad alternator and or battery will cause all kinds of problems. Make sure to individually charge and load test each battery.
 

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I hear that, I had to clean my ends last week. Whoever owned the truck before me replaced both batteries but didn't even bother to tighten the ends (rusted bolts). i just saw the new batteries and never thought to check the terminals.. cables are pretty expensive. I cleaned everything up, cut the rusted bolts out with a hack saw and replaced them.... I'd really suggest something to prevent corrosion in the future.
 

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Dielectric grease.
There is an aftermarket battery cable company that's been mentioned on this forum before that while expensive has excellent reviews and better than stock.
 
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