I have an 08 F350 DRW that I bought March 2015 at a fair price (a bit below Kelly book). It had 135K on it, DPF deleted and MiniMaxx tuned. I have put $13K in it this year: heads, water pump, fan clutch, oil cooler, and a bout with intermittent PCM failure. I now have 154K on it. If I can stay out of the dealer for a while that will be a plus. I also replaced the radiator (Mishimoto), added a coolant filter, BPD oil cooler kit, thermostats, both EGR coolers (preventive--the originals were still okay), and the EGR valve which was totally clogged and frozen up. I did this work myself, spending another $4K. This truck is here for the duration.
Crawl underneath to check fluid leaks: The external trans filter is normally a source of a minor leak. Lower driver side corner on the radiator is where failures often appear. Look at all the driveline seals. See if the DPF has been removed.
REALLY CHECK THE STEERING AND FRONT SUSPENSION! You do not want to experience the death wobble.
Engine compartment: Get a picture off Google Images of a stock 6.4 engine and compare what is or is not there. Has the EGR valve and/or cooler been deleted? Take a look at all the radiators on the front; make sure the fins are good with no evidence of leakage. If you have to change the radiator, all that stuff has to come out (it really isn't that big a deal to do so). Check the coolant: What kind is in there, and what is the condition. Same for engine and trans oil.
Make sure the manufacturer supplied "key" used to get the spare tire dismounted is there (an anti-theft device). If it has a sunroof, make sure it works. These fail often and the repair kit is around $500. Get the dealer to do a code scan; see what's there, and clear everything.
If I were doing it again, I would not buy a truck from a dealer that has been deleted or tuned . They don't know exactly what has been done to it, so they can't pass that knowledge on to you.
Meaningful engine repairs usually means lifting the cab, though some have managed without that. I don't have that level of expertise, time, or facilities. On the plus side though, the 6.4 is a pretty good engine and is built stronger than the 6.0. Remember, it was built to work, and work hard; not to be street profiler. Some people get really good mileage (according to them); I get 18-19 highway empty, 9-11 loaded, and 12-13 in town. I did once get 22.5 mpg but that was on a five mile, 45 mph downhill run.
If you go this route, this forum and others, along with YouTube will certainly save you some large dollars.
If it is a 4x4, read up on how to get back out of Low, and try the system out.