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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Passenger door power lock stops working - kind of. It would lock but not unlock. Wasn't sure if it was the motor, or wiring.

Came on here to find any info that might help before I pull the door apart. Found some guys talking about the small resistor? (I think) and ptting tinfoil in it to bridge.

Anyways, pulled the kickpanel off to check the wiring first and pulled the wiring plugs apart and realized one wire was corroded right off inside the female plug.

Spliced the wire together from the plug with a quick connect and the lock works fine now.

Now I just have to lube the mech. so I can use the key again.

Hope this helps someone else out.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Passenger door power lock stops working - kind of. It would lock but not unlock. Wasn't sure if it was the motor, or wiring.

Came on here to find any info that might help before I pull the door apart. Found some guys talking about the small resistor? (I think) and ptting tinfoil in it to bridge.

Anyways, pulled the kickpanel off to check the wiring first and pulled the wiring plugs apart and realized one wire was corroded right off inside the female plug.

Spliced the wire together from the plug with a quick connect and the lock works fine now.

Now I just have to lube the mech. so I can use the key again.

Hope this helps someone else out.

[/ QUOTE ]

Can you explain further about the problem you are having? I am having a problem where the unlock button my the driver side has a "hard time" pushing the lock up on the passenger door. Sometime I'll have to push it multiple times to get it to unlock all the way.

Thanks,
Casey
 

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I have this problem, worse in cold temperatures. Patrick Freeley had a post about a plastic tie-wrap that was restricting the movement of some lever-arm or rod. He removed the driver side pasenger door panel and cut this tie-wrap and freed up the mechanism, before it burnt up the switch.I think the tie-wrap was just over-working or restricting the switch. I'm not clear on the problem, because I never got around to fixing mine.

I did a search under his name and can't find this post - maybe it's way back in the archives.

Really wish I could be more helpful, but I just can't locate this old post.

Tom, '96 PSD cc dually, 158k.
 

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The tie wrap is around the boot that protects the rod on the door lock actuator mechanism. Taking off the tie allows the rod to slide up & down in the boot a little easier...You may be able to slide the tie up or down as nessesary to help it too....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
At first when I pushed the unlock button on both doors the passenger door would work intermitently. For a few days, I would have to push the button a few times to get it to unlock, then it stopped working completely. Both doors would lock with both buttons, but only the driver door would unlock. Maybe just check the wiring connector for corrosion.
 

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Just for the record, I used a little brake clean, a brush, elbow grease, and used oil for mine. The drivers side actuator had been removed by a PO, and the passanger side would un-latch the door when I hit the unlock button. Unnerving to say the least when I discovered that with my sister riding.
I tore the whole lock/latch assembly and the actuator out, and found the problem was the gunk built up in the latch mechanism was making the power actuator arm push the same arm that the outside button moves. It only did that on the unlock stroke stroke, not lock. And it would unlock just before it tripped the latch, allowing the door to come open as we were driving down the road. Talk about sweating! I don't think I've ever soaked a shirt that fast before or since.

Just a heads-up.
 

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The tie wrap refered to is on the rod that goes across the door from the lock pull to the latch area. It holds the rod to the inner door sheetmetal and causes it to bind. Cheers!
 

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It seems most of these trucks have door or window problems.
On my truck the door locks and the windows were all giving trouble.
I installed anew switch for the passenger side door lock which cured that problem. Having the old switch out I found it was easy to dismantle. Inside the contacts were black from arcing. After cleaning with a little fine emory cloth the switch was reassembled and put back in service.Eventually I did this to all the switches and kept the new one for a spare. They have been working fine now for about
two years. Cheers.
Brian. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
 
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