The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My power windows, both sides, started working only intermittently. Sometimes they'll start working at startup and then later stop, sometimes it's just the opposite. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to it. I've checked the 30amp circuit breaker under the hood and it's ok, even replaced it with a 30amp fuse. I also checked the "auto down" relay by swapping it with another, still no help. Every thing else on the truck works, it's just the windows. Any suggestions? I need help! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
jetskier,
No, didn't chect the door switches. Both door windows act the same so didn't suspect any one switch. Do you think maybe the wiring is routed from one door to the other?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,062 Posts
The wiring goes through the drivers door first before heading over to the passenger side. I'd check out the drivers switch first.

Here's the driver's side window switch for $36.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
jetskier,
Not the switch, took it apart and found it's not getting +12v. I suspect it has something to do with the timing control that allows the windows to operate for a few minutes after the key is turned off but I can't find any reference to it. That timing circuit has to be in the loop somewhere. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,217 Posts
The accessory delay relay is in the CJB. Bottom relay, left side. Swap it with the top one (horn relay) and see what happens.

O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,062 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
jetskier,
Not the switch, took it apart and found it's not getting +12v. I suspect it has something to do with the timing control that allows the windows to operate for a few minutes after the key is turned off but I can't find any reference to it. That timing circuit has to be in the loop somewhere. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree with Ozhoo. Check the Accessory Delay Relay.

The GEM controls the ADR, but I can't imagine that the GEM is causing the problem.

Pull the relay to check for voltage. You might try making a fused jumper to install in place of the relay for testing when it starts acting up if swapping in the horn relay shows no improvement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
I have been running into the same type of issue, sometimes the windows work, sometimes they don't. I'm nervous about lowering them if I'm not close to home. Happened a few times now and eventually they go back up, but I'm not sure why. I've jiggled the fuses, switched them around, same goes with the relays, when it feels like it, it'll go back up. When this happens NONE of the 4 windows work.

Latest was today, took my better half out for the day to do a bunch of door knocking for a campaign she is working on, lowered the drivers window a few inches and there it stayed. Fortunately it was a warm day so no problem. When I got a chance I fiddled with the fuses and relays all day while she was doing her stuff, to no avail other than managing to get it to go down another couple of inches. Came home and fiddled some more, got it to go down another couple of inches and there it stayed. Came in to look at my factory technical cd to see what else it could be, printed out the fuse panel diagrams (I have no owners manual) and went back outside. This whole time (about 15 minutes) I had left the door open with the key on acc. position, pushed the switch and up it went! Not sure if if had anything to do with the key being left on all that time or not.

Just plain weird, wish I could find out what is wrong as its a PITA not being able to depend on them, especially in the -40 winters we get here. If I ever order a brand new truck methinks it'll be with the old fashioned cranks!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,386 Posts
A coomon source of problems is in the convolute that runs between the A pillar and the door. Over time, the wires can become brittle and break from the constant flexing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
678 Posts
A coomon source of problems is in the convolute that runs between the A pillar and the door. Over time, the wires can become brittle and break from the constant flexing.
I agree, very common, especially on older trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
i have the same problem, if i lock the windows so only the driver controls will control the windows i have no problems (other than being the window up/down guy). would love to solve it, tried switching the driver side control unit with no change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Ditto. Now my drivers side rear door is DEAD. But everything else works fine. Will be looking into the 'B' pillar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
ck wires going into truck having same issues lots of my wires were broke or cracked going to do some splicing tonight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
Anyone come across a solution for this? Mine just started tonight... no power at the switch. Circuit breaker is good, swapped the delay relay, wiggled wires in the GEM module... nothing.

Anyone have a schematic for this, or at least know what color the pos feed wire to the switch is?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
So no ideas? Dozens of posts about this issue and no answers? I'm headed over to a friends shop tomorrow to plug into his big scanner and try and see if I can find anything in the GEM module. I find it coincidential that I use my AE to reprogram the speedo calibration (also in the GEM) and suddenly my windows stop working. So before I start tracing wires, I'm gonna see what I can find.

Never had a problem with them before, then poof!
On the upside, this is the first time my spedometer has been correct in over 165,000 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
Tonight's update for those who may be following along...
Went through the ALL DATA diagrams and started chasing wires.

PDB under hood, breaker #30 has power and is feeding the FUSE PANEL under the dash to the fuse panel bulkhead fine.

Wire from door switch feed to fuse panel bulkhead is good, all the way to the window relay.

The problem from the best I can tell is that the relay is NOT getting power to feed the door switch.

Now the question is why? Did the internals of the fuse panel break the circuit between the bulk head connector and the relay socket?

Everything else checks out? I don't get it.

I have ruled out the GEM MODULE being at fault since the problem lies between the fuse panel bulkehead and the relay socket.

So now what? Replace the fuse panel, that sounds like fun...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
I agree, very common, especially on older trucks.
Just on crew-cabs perhaps? Just curious because my '92 SC had over 600,000 km's on it when I sold it and I never had a problem with the electric windows sticking or not working..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Similarity between Jeff's problems and my electrical problems!

Tonight's update for those who may be following along...
Went through the ALL DATA diagrams and started chasing wires.

PDB under hood, breaker #30 has power and is feeding the FUSE PANEL under the dash to the fuse panel bulkhead fine.

Wire from door switch feed to fuse panel bulkhead is good, all the way to the window relay.

The problem from the best I can tell is that the relay is NOT getting power to feed the door switch.

Now the question is why? Did the internals of the fuse panel break the circuit between the bulk head connector and the relay socket?

Everything else checks out? I don't get it.

I have ruled out the GEM MODULE being at fault since the problem lies between the fuse panel bulkehead and the relay socket.

So now what? Replace the fuse panel, that sounds like fun...
This ongoing power window issue, plus a few other electrical failures, sounds VERY much like the problems I have been suddenly having and I posted elsewhere (but with only one response!)!

So, MY question is this: is there some kind of a connector going through the Bulkhead from the power distribution box? I think I had read on one of the posts something about there being one and that it was held together with some bolts!

Exactly where is this connector? I may try to take it apart (presuming I can FIND it!) and clean the contacts in the connector and re-assemble it.

Failing this, is there some other "fault point" where power coming from the power distribution box under the hood can be interrupted going to the fuse box under the dashboard? That seems to be EXACTLY what MY problem currently is!!

Thanks for any help with this, and I think that is where Jeff may want to further investigate. I'll be VERY interested in learning if this has anything to do with this.

The other similarity seems to be that both he and I have crew cabs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
i think its the fuse of the power windows, you'll find at the side of the dashboard (wheel side). It might be busted or the machine inside needs to be lubricated.



_________________
Ansa Exhaust blogs.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top