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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have Pressure In my cooling system when cold now mind you I have a block warmer plugged in to help the truck starting better It goes in through sort of a freeze plug hole. The cooling system Pressurerises allowing coolant to escape throught the over flow tube. Ive replaced the thermostat. also I have taken the hoses off the heater core just to see if coolant would come through them but it barley does. we've replaced the water pump and thermostat to see if that was the prolbem also we have blown through the radiator and lines and had coolant coming out the oppisite side of which we were blowing. Could a plugged heater core cause the truck to build pressure?
And does water flow through it when the engine is started cold or just when its warmed up?


Also before when I started it up after the block warmer beeing plugged in all night I had Instant Heat not hot but warm not I dont have heat only some times when Im Step on the accelerator or let off but if im at a steady speed it goes away
 

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Block heaters do build pressure....... check your rad cap 13lbs IIRC...... replace it if suspected bad or deeply grooved at the sealing area.

What tstat did you install .......MUST be a Ford or IH part.

Try back flushing the heater both ways..... garden hose water... then 30 psi of air max. Ensure the inlet hose is connected first then purge air out.... I put a Prestone T fitting in the heater return to water pump line..... about 18" from the heater so you can raise it and just crack it open to drain air from coolant.

Check my photo link for pic of hose hookup.
 

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My guess would be head gasket. Is coolant bubbling in the over flow tank? Like it is boiling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pressure Still In Cooling System When Heater Core Bypassed

I have pressure in my cooling system at start up now with the radiator cap off it starts to come out the filler neck and when you rev it there is no change in the volume of water coming out can something in my engine or radiator be clogged not allowing coolant to flow through ? is there any way I can clean it out or do you think its a blown head gasket? note that the truck runs fine and according to the temp gague it comes up about to the middle more on the cooler side of the guage I put a new thermostat and water pump on it as stated before the part number for the t stat is O'REILLY/MURRAY CAPS & THERMOSTATS - 195f Thermostat Item No: 4399

I got it from orileys should I try it with the thermostat out and see what happens? or if I get Pressure
 

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You've got the wrong thermostat in the truck.

Only buy a motorcraft thermostat from your ford dealer, or one from an IH dealer. This is the only one that works correctly in these motors, I'm guessing this is your problem with the system, and also try to find a new rad cap as that sounds to be sticking closed and not opening correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
6.9 litre pressure in cooling system

Now Every thing seems to be ok I had to by pass the heater core because i found a leak in it and now it seems that when its hooked back up it will have heat again because before we replaced the t stat and water pump even when the motor was at operating temp the hoses were cold but now they get warm. The needle on the temp guage comes up in the center of normal a little higher than it did with the original t stat in it.
My question is should there be steam coming out of the overflow tube of the truck when its warmed up I Mean if I pull it out of the over flow canaster it just puts steam out not much but just a little is that normal?

I still have a little pressure in my cooling system too but not as much as before and I have replaced my radiator cap
 

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The thermostats for these motors can pass enough coolant to keep them cool. Any aftermarket stat can'y flow enough coolant. They need the bypass that only the Ford stats have. Sure, other stats will fit but they wont work correctly. Its time you replaced the stat with a Ford only thermostat. The part number is E5TZ-8575-C. International sells the same part and they are 192 degree stats. Don't settle for anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
6.9 litre pressure in cooling system

what would 5 degrees make a diffrance heres the specs on motor craft and heres the specs on the one i got because they dont have one at there sore and no way to order it for some reason.
MOTORCRAFT - 190f/88c Thermostat Item No: RT1049 1 Per Vehicle 1 year limited warranty (View Details) MANUFACTURER PART CLASSIFICATION OF 190 DEGREE SPECIFIC APPLICATIONS HAVE VARIABLE TEMP RELEASES THIS APPLICATION MAY OPEN AT 192 DEGREES
As for the one I got heres the spec


so I dont under stand what the diffrance is I guess ill go to the dealer and try to get it there and see whats causing it




O'REILLY/MURRAY CAPS & THERMOSTATS - 195f Thermostat Item #: 4399
1 Per Vehicle 1 year limited warranty (View Details)
OE STANDARD
SEAL INC
 

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You just aren't going to understand till you buy the correct thermostat. Seems no amount of helping you is getting thru. Many thermostats will fit but not work correctly. The can't pass enough coolant to keep these motors running cool. Running without a thermostat will overheat your motor because of the block bypass setup. Now if you try to run without a stat you have been told what will happen. Others that came before you have made the mistakes for you. No reason for you to make the same mistakes they did. This post is not meant to be hard on you. Its just explained over and over what to do. Everybody wants to help but you need to be on board with what is written here.
 

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catdog....... check my photo link last page if it does not look like that IT"S WRONG.

NAPA sells one with a rubber ring around the sealing flange.... instructions say remove the ring for use on our diesels........ Looks similar but NOT a Ford or IH product with a great reputation.

Usually takes me 2 hours to R&R a tstat...... my time is worth money.

CAUTION:
The specified/required thermostat does not contain an internal bypass, since the bypass is located in the cylinder block. Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 thermostat be installed.
CAUTION:
Do not attempt to repair any thermostat. It should be replaced if it is not operating properly.
Check the new thermostat before installing it for correct opening temperature. Before suspending in boiling water, with a flashlight check where the rubber and the flat metal flange meet for bad seal. Tstat should start to opening barely at 180-192f, fully open 200-212f, allow to cool and check for rubber seal again.
Removal: Disconnect batteries, drain 4+ gals A/F, remove: as required, fan belt, alternator set aside, alt bracket, remove filter support from fuel filter then e/block. Disconnect upper rad hose at rad, remove tstat bolts and gooseneck housing. Clean both faces, depression and holes in block, ensure check ball in gooseneck is clean, free and rattles "do not remove".
Installation is reverse proceedure, I do not use sealant on gaskets and faces. REMEMBER the tstat pellet(copper end) goes into the block. I do use a "very small amount" of sealant on the edge of the tstat face when installing into the recess, now go for coffee, allow sealant to setup, this has saved me from tstat slippage when the gasket and goosekneck are installed. Replace all items in reverse order......
Manifold bolt torque......... 20ftlbs

OH!! while the upper coolant manifold is off..... check the engine temp switch just behind it on the upper block.... 12v power on one wire key on!.......nothing on the other. Cold engine should have continuity across the switch.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pressure Still In cooling system after getting correct thermostat

Iv got a thermostat from the local ford dealer and I still have pressure in the cooling system also when you un hook the heater hose that returns in to the water pump it puffs out steam dose this sound like a blown headgasket?

And Ive never over heated the truck at all like I said at first it started losing heat and then coming out in to the over flow whith coolant also at the bottem of the upper radiator hose where it conects to the engine It gets warm there but not closer to the radiator why is that? Mabie a plugged Radiator?
 

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Also when it is cold it seems that the motor is locked up and you have to bump the starter a lot to get it to free up and turn over and the starter is only 6 months old
May be loosing coolant into a cylinder and hydrolocking it. Not good. You can bend/break the rod/piston.

Heath
 

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Pressure in the cooling system is normal. As the coolant warms up it expands and that what the overflow it for. There is a way to test if the head gasket is blown by whats coming out of the radiator. I forget the exact details. Some sort of a tester for CO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just changed the thermostat to the motorcraft still got the same problem but now I have heat also replaced the radiator cap to a 13 pound one the same one as the one that was not on there but it wasnt motorcraft
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Block heaters do build pressure....... check your rad cap 13lbs IIRC...... replace it if suspected bad or deeply grooved at the sealing area.

What tstat did you install .......MUST be a Ford or IH part.

Try back flushing the heater both ways..... garden hose water... then 30 psi of air max. Ensure the inlet hose is connected first then purge air out.... I put a Prestone T fitting in the heater return to water pump line..... about 18" from the heater so you can raise it and just crack it open to drain air from coolant.

Check my photo link for pic of hose hookup.
I put the correct thermostat in truck now what could be the prolbme
 

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Sounds like you have a bad head gasket or a cracked head. The pressure build up right away at start up is a giveaway. It should take awhile for the coolong system to build pressure not right away at start up. When it is cold and seems like the motor locks when cranking is probably hydrolock fom coolant dripping into the cyl.
 
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