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I have an oil leak and i noticed that all the boots going into the intercooler and the Y pipes with orange boots have alot of oil buildup on them...under the truck it looks like a rear main leak but its def coming from above...there is a pool of oil in the valley....so today i tightened the clampc around the orange boots and i kept tighteneing them and they never got tight....just kept turning?? with all the mess in the intake and these boots, i have stongly considered doing the ccv mod i have seen on guzzles page. Whats the worst that can happen doing this and how to steer clear of messing it up?? thanks in advance
 

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I will be doing one myself here real soon. I thought about buying the pieces at a hardware store and piecing it together but the kit is just a little bit more and makes for a cleaner install. I think the only down fall is that your fumes will exit under the truck so if you have alot of blowby your truck may smoke when stoped. Another that I am more conserned with is water making its way back up into the crankcase. Although I dont bog this truck I do use it and you never know where you will have to go. I have thought about putting a one way check valve inline somewhere just for good measure.
 

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I have an oil leak and i noticed that all the boots going into the intercooler and the Y pipes with orange boots have alot of oil buildup on them...under the truck it looks like a rear main leak but its def coming from above...there is a pool of oil in the valley....so today i tightened the clampc around the orange boots and i kept tighteneing them and they never got tight....just kept turning?? with all the mess in the intake and these boots, i have stongly considered doing the ccv mod i have seen on guzzles page. Whats the worst that can happen doing this and how to steer clear of messing it up?? thanks in advance
Well let's see. How can this go wrong? The hose to atmosphere can get obstructed (frozen with water condensation) or kinked leading to elevated crankcase pressures and blown seals. Then you would have a real oil leak. Smells bad unless you lead it all the way back to under the bed but don't leave any low spots for water to collect as then it might freeze and obstruct the hose leading to blown seals again. Can anybody show me that this is more than a cosmetic issue. People that have cleaned their intercoolers report a couple to several tablespoonfuls of oil coming out. Yes, the oil film can theoretically impede the cooling of the charge air but could you measure the difference on a dyno? No. On manifold air temperature? Doubt it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Oily boots blowing off the intake manifolds? Then clean or replace them with better boots.
 

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Couple of things. If you have oil pooled in the valley under the turbo and leaking down the back of the engine. That is not your CCV making the mess. It is most likely your pedestal o-rings leaking or the EBPV leaking were the actuator exits from the EBPV cylinder. Doing the CCV mod will clean up the oily boots and intake, but that's all.

Also, if you do the CCV mod you will always have vapor exiting through your CCV hose when the engine is running. While it has an oily residue to it, it is not and should not have anyblow by in the true meaning of the word. Oil getting by the rings would be exiting in the exhaust. You should also run your CCV hose all the way out the back of the truck or around the rear wheel. If it is under your truck you will smell the vapor for sure and your cab will begin to smell like a skunk.

Mudslinger: I don't think water could ever make it's way into the CCV even when the engine is not running. When it is running it is moving plenty of air/vapor out of the crankcase under a bit of pressure. Someone here measured that pressure in mm/hg. To see what I mean just pull the little 90* hose end off the intake coupler on top of the CCV while the engine is running.
 

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I've done the CCV Mod, and routed mine to the bed, just behind the driver side rear wheel. Like Haul N Horses2 said, I never noticed any difference performance wise. I never really expected to either. It does keep the boots from getting oily though. I've considered ditching the mod and putting it back to stock, I dunno. It does smoke a little bit, obviously more when the engine is good and warm, but I've never had any problems with it.
 

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I agree with most of what haulin horses said. I think it really is more of a cosmetic thing. But I set mine up similar to the way international set the draft tube up on the t444e in the first place. Mine goes over the brake booster and then just dumps straight down. I have thought about actually buying the draft tube pipe that international uses. But either way, by keeping it short like international, you theoretically should minimize all the potential disasters. I do not get any obnoxious smell, or atleast it does not bother me. My wife has never complained, and if it was noticeable, she would. I personally am not comfortable with running it out the back. It is just too much of a liability.
 

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I did the CCV mod and I have nothing negative to say about it. Yes, I also ran the hose towards the back of the truck, and managed to do it with no low spots. Just run the hose over the brake booster, then find a path where you want it to go that's nice and level. On my truck, it currently ends at the driver's side rear wheel well. The engine and intercooler boots stay clean. The CCV hose never gets any water or condensation in it, and there's no oil puddles or any obstructions. 3 years so far and still good to go.

If you plan to do the CCV mod, use clear vinyl hose. Regular heater hose will fall apart after about 2 years. Also with the clear hose, you can easily check for low spots or any kind of blockage if you ever suspect something like that.

there is a pool of oil in the valley
You have an oil leak somewhere. Probably either the HPOP or from the turbo pedistal.

so today i tightened the clampc around the orange boots and i kept tighteneing them and they never got tight....just kept turning??
That means those clamps are stripped. Time to get some new ones. Due to the position of those boots, they don't typically blow off when they are loose like the boots at the intercooler. However, if you can't get those clamps tight, then you're still going to have a boost leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the input...i just sprayed the engine with engine brite and cleaned it good...i will just put new clamps on it and see if that helps....after talking to a respectible diesel mechanic here in town and reading these post i think ill pass on this mod....but the puddle of oil isnt cool maybe the clamos will help if not they needed replacing anyway....i noticed every clamp on this truck was loose! trucks got 148k and i just got it ...the hpop seemed to be free of an oil leak from what i can see....
 

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one other thing to look for is the orings on the fuel filter housing, pretty common.
mine leaked shortly after running some b20. probably a coincedence but woth a check.
 

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one other thing to look for is the orings on the fuel filter housing, pretty common.
mine leaked shortly after running some b20. probably a coincedence but woth a check.
On my 7.3, I noticed a diesel smell then saw fuel pooled in the valley. I replaced the fuel filter/top/o ring but it is still leaking a bit. Not the bowl drain being open either. What else will leak fuel in that area? Thanks for any advice.
 

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I agree with HAULIN'.I had mine routed down with heater tube and dumped at the transfer case.The smell sucked and the visible vapor poring out under the truck looked bad.More cons than pro's.IMO.
 

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On my 7.3, I noticed a diesel smell then saw fuel pooled in the valley. I replaced the fuel filter/top/o ring but it is still leaking a bit. Not the bowl drain being open either. What else will leak fuel in that area? Thanks for any advice.

There are o-rings on the fuel filter drain itself. Those are what is leaking. Pretty easy to replace; just four screws to remove the drain valve, install new o-rings and of course being able to stand on your head while doing all of it.
JK, it isn't that bad.
 

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Im new to the thread i was just readimg about all the good and bads on all these mods for the 7.3 since i have became a new owner now for just over a uear and this truck has definitely came a long way since i purchased it and from a previous gm guy never thought id say im not getting rid of this truck. Anyways thought id put in something i did with the ccv and the reason i decided to give the ccv mod a try.

i had cleaned my boots and hoses 3 months prior and they were just as oily. But when i did mine i ran my hose down to a fitting into the exhaust just after the trans support cross beam. So the exhaust flowing would help out. Now i have no oil in my cac system and havent noticed any harm beside a little oil on the ground every once in a while from the exhaust tip.

Im definitely planning on overhauling the engine and will put it back to the stock route and truly see the amount of oil produced from a fresh start.
 

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I have had my CCV mike de done to my 2000 7.3 for over 6 years no problems with it. I had it end at the rear axle for 3 years and then piped it to the exhaust for the last 3 no problems with mine and no oil dripping out the exhaust. Just a side note if you do have oil dripping out the exhaust one you have too much blow by or a blown turbo seal.


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I eliminated the dog house and welded a 1" pipe half nipple in the valve cover. Then I welded a 1" x 6" stainless tube into the bottom half of the down pipe. It has been working great. I was a happy man the day I sold the ProVent 200 catch can.
 

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I eliminated the dog house and welded a 1" pipe half nipple in the valve cover. Then I welded a 1" x 6" stainless tube into the bottom half of the down pipe. It has been working great. I was a happy man the day I sold the ProVent 200 catch can.
What did you use to connect them? Can you send any pics of this?
 

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Automotive 1" I.D. rubber hose. I just ran it up over the engine, zip tied against the other hoses and down the passenger side. I also zip tied it to some existing holes in the fender liner to keep the hose away from anything hot. It''s been working great, no smells or drips.

My down pipe is a two piece Diamond Eye. So taking the bottom half out and welding a short 1"x 6" ss tube in was no big deal.

I never liked draining the catch can and discarding the oil. AND, the catch can (ProVent 200 @ $160) never prevented ALL the oil from getting into the intake.

I will not be home until the weekend, if you need a few pics?

I'm not sure I can post pics, since I'm new on therefore not worthy on THIS forum.
 

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I have a catch can that is not a Pro vent, but I agree, there is still oil going through the intake and intercooler.

Would sure like to see how and what you welded onto the valve cover especially - no hurry! I think I could weld a pipe anywhere into the front part of the exhaust if it there isnt enough clearance to weld to the downpipe since I dont have a two piece one.

Or I guess I could just leave the doghouse and use all 3/4" since I assume the only reason you replaced it was to use 1"?

Thanks.
 

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Check the archives. Back in September of 2005 there was a thread discussing the use of the International open draft crank case vent system on the 7.3/T444 to include experiences and part numbers.
 

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I did mine with the canister from Tractor supply the went back to intake. I have a petcock in the canister to drain periodically. Intake has been bone dry now for over 100k miles. DO THIS MOD!
 
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