The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I may have a bent push rod. It shudders under lite acceleration, but accelerates normally under firm acceleration. It has also had a slight miss I could hear through the exhaust for about a year. Other day I started it up, and it died immediately. But after that it started right back up and was fine.

I just replaced the grey cps with the black one from riff raff, so gonna see how it runs after work. Just in case I was doing pricing for pushrods, valve springs, rocker arms, and I guess new valves?? I've found aftermarket Comp Cams push rods and valve springs. I would like to get everything after market/beefer. Any suggestions on where and what to get??

Thanks
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
And whats the deal with having the cam at the 11 o'clock position before doing this job? How do you make sure it is?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,472 Posts
Take the air intake off and put your hand over it while it is running. If it is an intake valve missing, the sound will be much easier to hear when it misses with the air intake out of the way. Then put your hand over it and see if the sound disappears when your hand covers it.

Then go to the back and listen to the exhaust. If you can hear the miss there, put a piece of computer printer paper over the exhaust and see if the exhaust wants to suck it up when it misses. If it doesn't, it should not be an exhaust valve issue.

If neither of these works, you probably don't have a valve problem and it will be much easier and cheaper to fix.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks man. I've done the paper at the exhaust but never heard of doing the intake that way.

With the new black cps, the acceleration stumble is gone, but I can still fill a miss. I'll check the intake tomorrow. Just how safe is it running the engine with no intake?

Sent from my ADR6300 using AutoGuide App
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,472 Posts
You are only leaving the intake off long enough for diagnosis, not for driving or running around. If you pass both of these shade tree tests, the next thing is a compression test. If you get by that, you need to look elsewhere and it should be a whole lot cheaper and easier than tearing an engine down and rebuilding.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea...like an IDM, UVCH, IPR.... Guess leaving the filter off for a min isn't as bad as running K&N 24/7 lol

I'll look deeper into to the rocker arms, push rods, etc when it gets closer for me to upgrade injectors.

Thanks again
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just curious, I saw you have the glow shift gauges as well. How long have you been running them? I've been running my little over a year and my pyro gauge hardly works now. Every now and then it will jump up. I'm thinking maybe soot from the ehaust has covered the probe. Thinking about taking it out and and seeing what can be done to clean it.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,472 Posts
I just put it in. After talking to the company about such issues, I'm thinking you need to look at the connections first. Any time I have had trouble with the gauges not working correctly, it has been loose or poor connections. Those bullet connections are very delicate and come loose easy. My wires were so short, I could hardly reach the EGT to hook it up. I would not be surprised at all if they worked loose. I'm thinking about changing them (if I can reach them to do it) just to make them more secure. My Tranny wires came loose just driving down the road.

How did you hook up the power wire pig tail? I did mine with wire nuts and taped the whole works together in the A pillar so they can't come loose in there. I'm thinking about doing the same in with the EGT sensor. I'm having transmission issues right now and will not do it there until I'm done playing in that area.

Actually, I love the gauge. Gives me all the data I need in one shot.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I've checked the connections. I talked to their tech support and they told me to unhook the pink probe wire and the gauge should max out, then ground it and it should bottom out. It did exactly as they said so the gauge and wiring should be good according to them. I have talked to some other people and they said the egt probes do go bad.

I bought a BD X-Monitor about a month ago for $75. Gonna wire it up today to see if it works.

I wired both hot wires straight to the battery with an inline fuse and put one hot wire on a toggle switch, that way if I'm crusing late at night....and they are blinding me...I can turn them off. And I just ran one ground wire up and "t"ed it off to the three gauges. All of my connections were done with a male/female flat blade connector. I've had the transmission probe connection come lose one time. I just put some electrical tape around it and its been on ever since. I had plenty of egt wiring, had to loop it up under the dash I had so much excess. Where did you install the probe?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,472 Posts
EGT wire from the plug on the back of the gauge was the short wire. The probe wire was so long, I have it wound up and zip tied to something on the fire wall.

Probe was tapped into the exhaust manifold beside #8 cylinder.

What does Glow Shift want for a new probe?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
IIRC $50...or 1/4 of what I paid for the entire gauge set. I'm gonna try cleaning it, the the BD monitor before I buy another probe.

Sent from my ADR6300 using AutoGuide App
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top