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I mounted mine on the drivers side header right where it starts to bend up, I didnt tap it I did the clamp method. taking a magnet to it and holding it aroudn the header will keep some of the shaving from going all over the place but you cant get all, but 30k miles later and still no problems.
 

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And some people said they put grease on the bit and tap to catch some of the shavings.
 

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i did the grease to, and it caught alot of shavings , and i also put the ole shop vac over the hole and sucked in alot of shavings too
 

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Click on COBALT GAUGES in my signature. Has pics of the PRE turbo install also.

The metal you are drilling thru is very soft. Use grease, gravity, and a shop-vac to catch the BIG stuff. The little bit of dust you dont get out will go right thru the turbo no problem. That is a TOUGH piece of cast iron and a little soft metal isnt going to hurt it one bit.

Now, I wouldnt go trying to blow an entire shop floor of debris thru it either, but one or two small shavings wont do a thing.
 

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I did this 2 weeks ago - I used about 10 different drill bits - drilling a little bigger at a time - then a magnet to get a few shavings out. What I got out would pass right on through the turbo. Doing it this way all shavings are so small they would not do any damage. I did not use grease as I did not want any shavings to stick. Whatever was left the magnet got. This process worked great and did not take very long.
 

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I run pre and post pyro's. Some say it is a waste, but I see a fair split at times and this supports my reasoning. There have been several times that I come to shut down and the pre is reading 300 and the post is still around 450 or even 500. After a minute or two it drops to around a 50 degF split, then I shut it off. Raising the RPM just a bit helps cool down too.
I think if you rely on "old school" thought of 30 sec. to 2 min. warm ups and responsible cool down time for the engine, pre turbo is the more important of the two.

Trav
 
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