[Darryl97420]

So I am starting to prep my 1985 E350 6.9l with a C-6 transmission to tow my Airstream trailer that weights in at about 6200 GVW and am needing to install a receiver hitch along with other stuff but now I am hearing that I need a pyrometer. I am under the impression that a bone stock 6.9 really did not have the exhaust temp issues that the newer hopped up diesels with chips, turbos and computer upgrades have. Is a pyrometer a must for any diesel motor that will be used for towing? So far everyone who has told me I need to have one have used the argument "a pyrometer is cheaper than a new engine" or "it's better to be safe than sorry", or "pay me now or pay me more later". But no one has address the issue of a stock 6.9 having the excessive egts.

Anyone who does not sell pyrometers want to take this on????

 

[cdnsarguy]

If the IP is turned up or going to be.... a pyrometer is advised. Any turbo equiped engine SHOULD have a pyrometer also.........

 

[Darryl97420]

Thank you! I have no intention of turning up the IP nor installing a turbo so I didn't think a pyrometer was necessary.

 

[Plywood]

In a perfect world a stock 6.9 theoretically shouldn't need one.
But,
with a truck that old (no offense, so is mine) and considering the multiple possible problems the truck could have that might be able to raise exhaust temps, and if your gonna tow with the pedal to the metal, may be good advice.

 

[arthurgoboom]

If you decide not to install a pyrometer, which I wouldn't believe is required if the pump is set at stock settings, be sure to check your air filter occasionally and make sure it's not plugged. If you restrict the intake air, you will have the same amount of fuel being delivered but less air, and this can cause higher EGT.

 

[Joe Mc]

You don't say where you live or where you plan to travel. If you are staying close to home and are in a fairly flat state then you will be fine without a pyro.

Stock setting? What is a stock setting on a 20 plus year old truck?
I bought my truck when it came from Oklahoma to Colorado and the IP had to be turned down to meet the local emission code. At that setting driving around close to here the truck makes some smoke on hard pulls and most would agree that it runs about like a stock truck, the elevation here is about 5,000 feet. When I go to Memphis (elevation 300 feet) I don't need the pyro as it won't hit 900 on a hard pull. Trying to pass a car running the same speed as me when I pull out to pass, put it on the floor and wait, it will take almost 3 miles before I get around. That is with the truck empty, I could not pull your trailer in high gear at this IP setting near sea-level.

Reset the IP in Memphis to the famous stock setting and again most would say that it smoked and pulled like stock. But as I get back to Colorado the EGTs are getting higher and the smoke is getting thicker on hard pulls. If I go on up to around 10,000 feet while still at the Memphis setting it will hit 1,250 degrees in the blink of an eye and smoke like a WW2 destroyer laying down a smoke screen, it is getting ready to put flames out the pipes. All this while still running empty.

A pyrometer can also help you decide which gear to be in on a long grade. But again, if you live in Florida and never leave the state, no you don't need a pyro.

 

[agnem]

Can you get away without a pyrometer and a stock pump? Of course. Is it the best way to go? No. The reason is this. A stock pump setting will run your EGT's up to about 1100 degrees. On a really hot day with high ambient air temps, towing or working really hard, you may see it go higher. Now, add to the mix the possibility that your fuel is not of good quality, your air filter is becoming restricted, your injectors are starting to go to pot, or perhaps you've just replaced your IP with a new one and have no way to verify that it really was set to OEM spec. These can all cause you to run hot. For the $150 bucks that it would cost you to install one, it has to be some of the cheapest insurance policies on the planet. Another really useful gauge to put in is a vacuum gauge. Find out your loosing breaking capability before it happens!

 

[hesutton]

Get the Pyro!

A factory stock IP on a N/A IDI CAN AND WILL MAKE DANGEROUS EGT's.:nono: If you are working that motor (hauling, towing) you will be surprised at what that pyro will show you. Ignorance is bliss, but I'd rather know when to back off the throttle. It is the most important guage on a diesel, N/A or turbo.

Heath

 

[LeftcoastJeff]

Bone stock 87

Alright, I have been looking for this for some time.
I'm definatly getting one!
What is your recommendation (make and modle) for the gauge and where to put it? (in the truck)
LCjeff

 

[hesutton]

You can get one from ISSPRO, AUTOMETER, HYPERMAX, BANKS, or whoever you like. I used the Banks pyro that came with my turbo kit.

Mount it in or as close to one of the exhaust manifolds as you can. The further away the probe, the less accurate.

Heath

 

[Darryl97420]

Get the Pyro!

A factory stock IP on a N/A IDI CAN AND WILL MAKE DANGEROUS EGT's.:nono: If you are working that motor (hauling, towing) you will be surprised at what that pyro will show you. Ignorance is bliss, but I'd rather know when to back off the throttle. It is the most important guage on a diesel, N/A or turbo.

Heath

OK, so I will look into getting a pyrometer for my van because I do want to tow my Airstream.

thanks guys for your input.

 

[Spencnaz]

I like the ISSPRO gauges. They're very clear, easy to read and of very high quality.

They've been around for quite a while too. I remember driving a 1965 Kenworth that had one in there of that vintage.