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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
re: Aloha folks, fuel drop question...

Aloha Folks-
I know it has been a while. As I have told some members, the wife and I have been caregivers to many over the past 8 months.

Recently, about 2 weeks ago I noticed a drastic change in my fuel economy. I knew it was time to change out the fuel filter and when I opened up the canister the fuel in the bowl was really low. In the past when I have changed out the filter I have always had to be careful not to spill but not this time.

So, my question is, could it be that my original stock fuel pump after 270K is finally giving up the ghost as they say? I have not seen any leaks around the engine or underneath. And again, when I say how low the fuel was in the bowl I was not sure if this was an anamoly or something else.

If it could be the fuel pump do you know of a good write up on how to remove and replace it and what else should be replaced as well? Thanks for any and all advice.
Mahalo!
 

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It could quite possibly be your fuel pump after that many miles. Have you had any running proplems, and have you checked the fuel pressure on the schrader valve on the filter housing with a air guage? If you check the pressure just wrap the guage with some rags so that you don't take a bath in what diesel that will spray out. I believe that you should have between 40-50psi at a idle.

Here is a link to the write up that Sam Miller did for the fuel pump replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
re: mechanical fuel pump

Aloha Bugman-
thank you so much for the resources. Will any "air gauge" work? I have one of those tire pressure gauges but I am sure that is not very good for this. You probably mean one with a dial on it and needle?

Also, I see in your writeup about "hand cranking" the engine to lift that part attached to the mechanical pump out. Forgive me for being a little green on this one, which part do we "turn" to do this?

Lastly, are those electrical pump conversions (Beans or Dieselsite) worth a try or could one put together their own electrical system? Just a thought. Thank you again.
Mahalo!


It could quite possibly be your fuel pump after that many miles. Have you had any running proplems, and have you checked the fuel pressure on the schrader valve on the filter housing with a air guage? If you check the pressure just wrap the guage with some rags so that you don't take a bath in what diesel that will spray out. I believe that you should have between 40-50psi at a idle.

Here is a link to the write up that Sam Miller did for the fuel pump replacement.
 

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Your pencil type tire guage will work but be ready for diesel to squirt out, that is where the rags come handy. To crank the engine over you can use a socket on the crank pulley or if you are careful and pull the #9 fuse under the hood bump the starter. It doesn't have to go very far to turn the cam over a couple of times.

As far as electric fuel I believe that the prices run around $800.00. You also need to replace the filter housing since it was not designed for the extra pressure that a electric pump needs. I have looked at the one that is on Bean's site but haven't given it too much consideration.
 

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The pump is 2 stage.....just because you have pressure at the guage does not mean you have enough pressure to ensure proper supply under load...the only way to test the pump under load is to attach a 3-4 foot piece of hose with the fitting at the shreader valve and go for a cruise and watch the guage which you have duct taped to the hood without pinching the line and see what pressure you have then...I would just change the pump...270 K has got to be a record for a lift pump..my last one only lasted 50 K.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
re: mechanical fuel pump

Aloha Bugman and Blageurt-
Thanks for the heads-up and advice. Maybe I should stay away from the electric pump and just go with the stock mechanical pump again, since it worked well for me all these miles! I think the only thing I will get in the future maybe stage 1 injectors and a chip so, I am sure the stock lift pump will be adequate. Mahalo!

The pump is 2 stage.....just because you have pressure at the guage does not mean you have enough pressure to ensure proper supply under load...the only way to test the pump under load is to attach a 3-4 foot piece of hose with the fitting at the shreader valve and go for a cruise and watch the guage which you have duct taped to the hood without pinching the line and see what pressure you have then...I would just change the pump...270 K has got to be a record for a lift pump..my last one only lasted 50 K.....
 

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1st instructions fuel pressure 2nd service advice

Explaination of how to put the BB in the fuel regulator little better and clean the regulater screen

Get a regular BB, wait till your engine cools some and take the black cover off the top of your motor. This requires a 1/2 in deep socket and ratchet. There are 3 nuts on the cover. Next look at your fuel filter bowl and just to the right at the front will be a brass 19 mm plug on the fuel regulator. You will want to place a rag below this plug in case you drop anything. Next, remove the plug and place it on the top of your fuel filter housing using a 19 mm socket or wrench. You will now see a little spring that is exposed. Take a pair of small needle nose pliers and grasp the spring and pull it out of the regulator. Place it by your plug noting the way it came out. You will want to go back in with the same end that came out of the regulator side. Next, take a pencil tip magnet and be sure everything is clean on the magnet (we don't want metal shavings in there)....place the tip of the magnet in the hole and it will pull out the little tri-angular plunger that regulates the fuel pressure. Take the plunger off your magnet and look at the end of it. The end that has the hole is where you want to place the ball bearing. Take your ball bearing and drop it in the hole. When I did it the ball just fell in the hole. Take a little punch and make sure that it seats in the counter bore of the plunger. Not with a hammer, just pushing on it by hand will suffice. Next, make sure everything is clean and place the spring back in the plunger the way it came out. Place the plunger back into the regulator. The tri-angular shape will "FIT" into it's respected groove. DO NOT FORCE IT. Turn the plunger until it slides right in. Next, take the 19 mm plug and coat the o-ring with some oil or light grease so you will not damage the o-ring. Next, note the nipple on the end of the plug where the spring is centered. Be sure to get that nipple into the hole on the end of the spring or you will bend the spring and you have trouble. Push the plug toward the threads in the housing as it will be harder to push now, and screw your plug back into the regulator. DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE PLUG. Next tighten the plug back down snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Now its time to do the;

Fuel Regulator Screen Cleaning


The fix is simple. Take off the cover over the fuel filter, 1/2 socket does the job. Place a towel or shop rag under the fuel regulator!!!! There are two 10 mm bolts just to the right of the fuel filter, take both out making sure you put them back the way they came out. Gently pry the fuel regulator away from the fuel filter housing, making sure you don't drop the o-ring. You will see a small screen about 1/4 inch. Using a small screwdriver or q-tip w.out the cotton ball on the end, wipe the screen and then put everything back together. The material you get off the screen I have been told is from o-rings. The fix will only take 15 to 20 minutes. If you find the regulator is blocked, clean it, install new fuel filter, and it shouldn't need to be done again for 12 months.

Replace your black cover and you are ready for a test drive to see if you made any difference. You should definitely feel a difference in throttle response. You will actually have more boost pressure.



Also check for a in line fuel filter coming off the tank lines. Never know.

Good luck,


BAZ.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
re: mechanical fuel pump

Aloha Bugman, Blageurt and SteveBaz-

Thank you very much for all of your help and advice. Something fascinating happened: As I originally mentioned about 2 weeks ago I put in a new fuel filter which was way over due. The fuel level in the bowl was really low. Then I posted here and you folks gave great advice. John (GarbageMech)steered me towards Harbor Freight to get a fuel pressure gauge and some back up o-rings in case I lost the one off of the regulator. So, I cleaned the screen, this is the second time I have done it and it has been maybe 2 years. It did not seem real dirty, meaning full of gunk but there was stuff to be cleaned out.

I put everything back together and then hooked up the fuel pressure gauge at the schrader valve on the regulator. Turn on the truck and saw the needle hopping between 8~12psi. Felt discouraged but thought let's wait this out and also make sure that I have the gauge on tight. Then the needle started to move and fuel squirting out! The needle was hopping between 50-60psi! I ran to shut off the engine and clean up the fuel. I was happy because I think this means that my old fuel pump is still good.

But then I thought what else could it be. Well, I decided to open up the fuel filter canister just to take a look. Remember even though I had changed out the filter the fuel level was still very low in the bowl. As I was opening the lid and pulling out the fuel filter I noticed it was full!

Tomorrow, I will run the vehicle to see how the mileage works out. Plus check the fuel bowl to make sure it is still full. Who, knows, maybe a perfect storm in regard to FPR screen, moving and cleaning other areas, putting the pressure gauge on? I do know one thing, diesel fuel is a great degreaser! Cleaned up the valve covers nicely and other parts close to the spray area.

So, I will check back to let you know how it is going, thank you again for the help.
Mahalo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
re: fuel pump questions

Aloha Folks-
Well, something is still happening as they say, fuel wise. So, I will start by doing the mechanical lift - fuel pump. I understand that it is best to replace some hoses-fuel line, banjo bolts, etc.. Are there any other parts that should be replaced or done since one is in there as they say?

Can all the above parts be ordered through Ford? Part numbers? For the hoses what size are they and are they a special material in order to work with diesel?

Also, I have a CA truck and in the near future hope to install single-shot injectors. Are the lift pumps the same for both the CA and non-CA trucks? Can I remove that Bosch dampener-disc thing for now without screwing up the system? If so, how do you remove it? CaryT mentioned to me in the future I will need a new ECM computer to work with the single-shot injectors. I hope I can take out that Bosch part in preparation for the new injectors and ECM.

Look forward as always to the good advice.
Mahalo
 
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