The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On a 200 mile road trip right now. Truck is dropping out of 4th gear for about half a second while going 75-80. Ses light on now. Truck shuts off when i come to a stop but stops up fine. Please help somebody.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,129 Posts
Getting the codes read would be of great help. Where are you traveling? Check your transmission fluid level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tranny fluids fine. Just got codes read. P0238
P0603
P0344
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,129 Posts
P0238 Turbo Boost Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0603 Internal Control Module KAM Error
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent (bank1/1 Sensor)

The KAM error is simply stating the PCM lost power at some point - usually with a battery install. Ignore that one. The boost sensor code is mildly worrisome - likely a MAP sensor glitch, but I would ignore that one unless it comes back. Your culprit is the Camshaft sensor error. A failing CPS can cause a myriad of issues. Get yourself a genuine International CPS. Actually - two of them because every 7.3 owner needs a spare in the glove box. There are two that will work - the one Ford thinks should be in there (Grey CPS P/N: F7TZ-12K073-B, International 1876735C91) or the one that actually works best (Dark Blue CPS P/N: F4TZ-12K073-C, International 1876736C91) If you buy the latter, don't tell them what its for because the counter monkey will tell you it won't work - but it does...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Boost im attribuing to the tuner because i know the light will come on when it hits 25 psi. And yeah i had the battery unhooked a week ago. I bought an sensor from advance auto parts for $25. I know you get what you pay for but i dont have a lot of options right now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,129 Posts
The P0238 isn't a high boost code, but rather an electrical issue with the MAP sensor. The most likely scenario is the MAP sensor is shorted internally. If your CPS swap doesn't fix this, the MAP sensor is your next play. The MAP sensor shares a common reference voltage with the ICP sensor, EBP sensor and others. If any one of the sensors shorts, it can take out the readings of all other sensors and cause a stall. Don't forget to check all the wiring harness for chaffing, especially the 42 pin harness that drapes over the driver's side valve cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the CPS changed. I'll try the MAP if that keeps throwing a code. I don't see any exposed wires anywhere so I don't think that's it.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Made it all the way home today and didn't have a single issue. The CPS I got is the Borg Warner part. Reliable or should I really switch to a international one?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,129 Posts
Just don't use your wipers and you'll be fine...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The CPS I pulled out looked exactly like the new one too...And it was pouring rain the entire time it was acting up on me on the trip...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
586 Posts
It's a very real problem that has been noticed by some members here who have tried the Borg Warner CPS. I believe it is related to electrical noise or interference from the wiper motor disrupting the CPS signal, resulting in an engine stall. One of the members (I don't remember who) lengthened the wiper motor wiring and ran it through some ferrite chokes to eliminate the noise - I believe it successfully eliminated the problem.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,129 Posts
Maryland Dieselnick did it. Probably put 20 chokes around the CPS harness and various wires on the wiper motor. While it was an interesting experiment, the International CPS doesn't have the wiper motor issue and costs about the same as the part's stores brand so - why go through all that? Personally, I'm running an original black CPS but those are really hard to come by anymore. The dark blue would be my second choice and the grey after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So nothing negative about using the International blue one? I don't have any international dealers around here though, Riffraff sells the blue one correct?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,129 Posts
Yes, and you can get it at any Ford dealer as well. P/N: F4TZ-12K073-C

Just don't tell them what you are buying it for. They won't accept that it fits and works in our trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll pick on of those up and try it. Nothing wrong with using that and a tuner? I've seen some things about how it retards the timing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,129 Posts
No. I don't know what it does to the timing, but it runs better with a considerable boost in power and MPG. It would almost have to advance the timing to do that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
586 Posts
I am using a dark blue CPS. I've driven about 5000 miles with it and it has worked great so far. I have not noticed any difference in power or mileage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
After I installed a set of HID bulbs/ballasts for the new projector headlights I got I started my truck and turned headlights on....soon as I hit headlight switch engine died. So I tried it again....sure enough. I had to turn my HID lights on first, then start the engine!

Apparently it's an issue with HID's (some kits) and the DP tuner F5 wiring from the ecu to the switch which isn't shielded.

So I bought two ferrite beads (clamshell snap together over the wire type) at local electronics store. Just get one big enough to fit over DP tuner cable. Works great. Never had the problem again. LOL :thumbsup:

Radioshack - Products If cord hole is big enough can wrap the cord through twice.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top