Rear end Lube 75 w 140 ??????
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Check around. My local NAPA carries Red Line and AMSOIL synthetic gear lube. Wally World has their house brand 75W140 synthetic. All are in the $10.00 and under price range per quart and all meet the Ford spec. If you have a Mack dealer close by, you should be able to buy it in bulk from them.
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See my sig I just replaced my yesterday. I used Mobil 1 synthetic 75-90w GL5 rated as per the owners manual. I have the Dana rear end DRW 4.10 ratio. Mobil 1 is $8.10 a quart at Advance auto parts. 8.3 pints from the book but 4 qts.(8 pints) filled it up within 1/4" from running out the fill hole. I used black silicone form a gasket on the cover. I wanted to clean out the rear end and I wanted to take a look inside anyway.
The owners manual says if you don't use synthetic you must change every 20,000 miles and 100,000 miles with synthetic. The old fluid was pretty dark.
Hint I used one of those drill pumps to suck out 99.9% of the old fluid. Drill Pump came from West Marine Supply. This made the job very neat and clean. Also I used spray brake cleaner to clean up the cover and gasket area and lots of paper towels. (PM Preventative maintenance). If you have limited slip rear end you will need to add the prescribed friction modifier.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
The owners manual says if you don't use synthetic you must change every 20,000 miles and 100,000 miles with synthetic. The old fluid was pretty dark.
Hint I used one of those drill pumps to suck out 99.9% of the old fluid. Drill Pump came from West Marine Supply. This made the job very neat and clean. Also I used spray brake cleaner to clean up the cover and gasket area and lots of paper towels. (PM Preventative maintenance). If you have limited slip rear end you will need to add the prescribed friction modifier.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
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See this:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3242&mfrcode=MBI&mfrpartnumber=511303975
Mobil 1 75-90W $8.18 qt.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3242&mfrcode=MBI&mfrpartnumber=511303975
Mobil 1 75-90W $8.18 qt.
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Bulldog, does your Ford manual call for 75w90 rather than 75w140?
I really didn't know DRW used a lighter velocity oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
I really didn't know DRW used a lighter velocity oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
hmmmm
My local FORD dealer is 17.63 guess thats not bad only 3 more $ per quart over your dealer LOL
And dig this I priced a New 06 6.0 at 4 dealers and they are the only one that will not come down to invoice!!!!
Must not need to sell vehicles to bad?????
My local FORD dealer is 17.63 guess thats not bad only 3 more $ per quart over your dealer LOL
And dig this I priced a New 06 6.0 at 4 dealers and they are the only one that will not come down to invoice!!!!
Must not need to sell vehicles to bad?????
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Yes. You should use synthetic. Under load, that axle gets hot. Synthetic stands up to the heat better.
The tag on my differential cover says "Use Synth. Oil." You should use the weight of oil that your owner's guide specifies. For my 2002, it is 75W-140. I changed my oil 3 weeks ago at 100,000 although the owner's guide says I can go to 150,000.
The axle takes 7 pints. The stuff I used is about $12/qt.
Don't forget the limited slip additive if you have that kind of axle. Look at the codes on the differential tag or the door tag to determine the type of axle you have. Your owners manual will have the amount that you should add.
Be careful in using any other weight (viscosity) of oil than what is specified in your manual. Some of those other viscosity synthetics are ment to replace dino-oil in cars and trucks.
You'll also need a tube of some silicone gasket material. This is the sealer used for the differential cover. Make sure the surfaces are clean and oil free before using. Follow the directions. Helps to let the seal set for a few hours before adding oil.
Red
The tag on my differential cover says "Use Synth. Oil." You should use the weight of oil that your owner's guide specifies. For my 2002, it is 75W-140. I changed my oil 3 weeks ago at 100,000 although the owner's guide says I can go to 150,000.
The axle takes 7 pints. The stuff I used is about $12/qt.
Don't forget the limited slip additive if you have that kind of axle. Look at the codes on the differential tag or the door tag to determine the type of axle you have. Your owners manual will have the amount that you should add.
Be careful in using any other weight (viscosity) of oil than what is specified in your manual. Some of those other viscosity synthetics are ment to replace dino-oil in cars and trucks.
You'll also need a tube of some silicone gasket material. This is the sealer used for the differential cover. Make sure the surfaces are clean and oil free before using. Follow the directions. Helps to let the seal set for a few hours before adding oil.
Red
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[ QUOTE ]
how does one know if he has limited slip?
[/ QUOTE ]
There are two tags on your pumpkin. One says to use synthetic 75w140 gear lube. The other is a bunch of codes. On the second line the first 4 characters will be either "3 73" or "3L73". If it has the "L", then it's limited slip. (The first "3" may be covered up with grease or a rivet or some such.)
Another way is to look at the axle code on the sticker on the lower doorpost behind the driver's door. (The same sticker that includes tire info, GVWR, etc.) Axle code 31 mean 3.73 ratio with open axle. Axle code C1 means 3.73 limited slip.
how does one know if he has limited slip?
[/ QUOTE ]
There are two tags on your pumpkin. One says to use synthetic 75w140 gear lube. The other is a bunch of codes. On the second line the first 4 characters will be either "3 73" or "3L73". If it has the "L", then it's limited slip. (The first "3" may be covered up with grease or a rivet or some such.)
Another way is to look at the axle code on the sticker on the lower doorpost behind the driver's door. (The same sticker that includes tire info, GVWR, etc.) Axle code 31 mean 3.73 ratio with open axle. Axle code C1 means 3.73 limited slip.
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[ QUOTE ]
...does your Ford manual call for 75w90 rather than 75w140?
I really didn't know DRW used a lighter velocity oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
SRWs have a Ford "Sterling" 10.5" rear axle that requires 75w140 synthetic gear lube.
DRWs have a Dana 80 11.25" rear axle that requires 75w90 or straight 90w synthetic gear lube.
...does your Ford manual call for 75w90 rather than 75w140?
I really didn't know DRW used a lighter velocity oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
SRWs have a Ford "Sterling" 10.5" rear axle that requires 75w140 synthetic gear lube.
DRWs have a Dana 80 11.25" rear axle that requires 75w90 or straight 90w synthetic gear lube.
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Smokey answered before I could get back! 75-90W in DRW 4.10 ratio Dana. I went through the Dana thing when I replaced the wheel seals.
Well I screwed up then. I put 75w-140 synthetic in my 4.10 dually about two weeks ago. Do I need to get it out fast or can I wait till after we tow the fiver 600 miles roundtrip in a couple of weeks? Also when I change should I go 75w-90 syn. or straight 90w syn. for south Texas temperatures? (fiver is about 11.000 lbs. high profile)
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I had the same lube in my 4.10 DRW. Bob Riley said it would heat up more as the higher viscosity would not carry the heat away from the gears as readily as the lower viscosity oil. As these tend to get warm even in our colder climate, I would probably change it out, especially as you are going to be towing near maximum GCWR in a hot climate.
[ QUOTE ]
Well I screwed up then. I put 75w-140 synthetic in my 4.10 dually about two weeks ago. Do I need to get it out fast or can I wait till after we tow the fiver 600 miles roundtrip in a couple of weeks? Also when I change should I go 75w-90 syn. or straight 90w syn. for south Texas temperatures? (fiver is about 11.000 lbs. high profile)
[/ QUOTE ]
Leave it in there. Your gears will like it just fine.
Well I screwed up then. I put 75w-140 synthetic in my 4.10 dually about two weeks ago. Do I need to get it out fast or can I wait till after we tow the fiver 600 miles roundtrip in a couple of weeks? Also when I change should I go 75w-90 syn. or straight 90w syn. for south Texas temperatures? (fiver is about 11.000 lbs. high profile)
[/ QUOTE ]
Leave it in there. Your gears will like it just fine.
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I agree with 444-4D. If you are really concerned, talk with a lubricants professional. FWIW, I ran two different fleets which included everything from passenger vehicles to Class 8 OTR trucks and safely and reliably converted everything to 85W140 gear oil in the differentials for inventory and standardization. Millions of miles driven and NO problems. (Nothing specified synthetic lube).
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