[icem237]

My 01 F250 4x4 seems like the limited slip isn't functioning. Passengers side wheel on ice and drivers side on pavement and drivers side never tried to turn when the passengers was slippen.

Just wondering what i should do to remedy the problem.... maybe its not a problem just asking.

 

[twin_turbo_crapsman]

While the purpose behind a clutch type LS is to help manage torque between axle shafts, they wear out. By stopping on ice and dry pavement, even with a clutch type in good shape, you need to help the clutch packs create a torque bias to feed power to the wheel on ice. You can apply p brake a little or service brakes and see if it helps. Otherwise change the diff fluid and use synthetic. I didn't put any friction modifier in and mine locks up really well. At the end of the day, it still is a clutch type ls. The Ford tractionlok is filled with a lot of friction modifier factory. I didnt use any.

 

[icem237]

So I should probably do like you said and change the fluid with a synthetic and no additional friction modifiers. The rear end fluid has not been changed since 80 or 90 thousand. Cant hurt... trucks at 142,000+ i wasnt sure if the LS was warn out or what i should do..


Fluid is a good place to start.

 

[BTBBT]

The way I remedied this same problem was to replace the stock LS with an Eaton unit. Works much better. Only my change was prompted by a ring gear replacement.

 

[icem237]

What was the cost of the eaton unit?

 

[twin_turbo_crapsman]

The factory fill should be synthetic. I used valvoline something or other. If you want the 'cheaper' route, skip the friction modifier and just change the diff fluid. You may find most synthetics already have friction modifier. If you want a good L/S the detroit truetrac is really durable, but doesn't click around turns like a locker. The truetrac doesn't use clutch packs, so it can't 'wear' out. The only way to 'wear' it out is to break it :lol:. The unit itself is about $550 to over 700 for a Dana S135...I doubt you have the S135 unless you have an F-550, just wanted to give you a range of prices. Of course, add a bit for labor too if you have someone install it. Another thing to remember is, unless you filter the gear lube well, once it drains, I'd pitch it. In other words, don't do the fluid change if the true trac is in your plans, otherwise youll do it twice...

 

[twin_turbo_crapsman]

another thing. The true trac is torque biasing... so if one wheel is on ice and you don't get traction, a little braking or p brake will allow torque multiplication much better than the stock l/s.

 

[icem237]

well is there a unit that not matter if one side slips the other with try to turn without having to use the brake?

 

[CPUNeck]

Yep, the Detroit LOCKER :lol:, I always read about the "clicking" but swear I've never heard it. This rear-end is not for the faint of heart, and mama won't even drive my truck anymore :nono:. If the roads are wet, and you pull out in front of someone, better be prepared to correct for the fish tail when the rear locks up! This thing can have a tire in free air and the other one will lock and turn, guaranteed. Bear in mind though, the mission of this type differential is extreme, doesn't even compare with l/s units.

 

[BTBBT]

I want to say the Eaton was about $800 or thereabouts. I know people so I got a little better deal I think. But it should be close.