[Tarheelstroker]

About to do my LUK this weekend and am preparing myself for the chance that the rear main is leaking
If I just get the international seal, what tools do I need to get it out and install a new one???
thanks in advance

 

[RickHredf250]

Never di change mine, bought the kit but it look ok, Just wanted to tell you that the kit from IH comes with the T-442 grey sealer.
Rick H...

 

[milner351]

I've done this TWICE in a '91 idi, but the seal is the same as far as I know.
The first seal my friend bought from auto zone, and, not only did we have a hard time getting it installed properly since we decided to do it without removing the block plate.... but, the seal just didn't look as well made as the original, and well, it leaked!

SO, on the second try, we removed the block plate, popped out the new/old seal and carefully installed the new NAPA seal using some careful hammering and a block of wood.
When I do this again, I will relocate the seal slightly to keep it from running in the groove worn in the crankshaft by the original seal, or, I will use a shaft collar if one is available. You can knock the seal into the cover, but located it a 1/16" or so away from flush on the outside of the cover, keeping the seal from riding in the old groove. My friend did not like that idea, so, we put it flush with the front and it rode in the old groove and, well, it "SEAPS" just a little, not enough to cause a problem.

TRICK TWO:
we rolled up a for sale sign greased it, then put it through the seal in the cover, and over the back of the crank, then, rotating and sliding the cover into place, the seal is kept from damage going over the crank, then, rotate and slide the sign out, and VIOLA! home made tool works GREAT!

I prefer gray permatex on all gasket surfaces after working in the honda engine plant in Ohio I'm sold on the stuff, I've had great luck with it, especially in tricky places like the front and back of a small block ford intake manifold... I don't use the rubber seals, they've sucked in on hard down shifts, nice bead of gray, NO LEAKS!

SO, that's what we used on the bottom of the block cover / oil pan interface. NO LEAKS

Sorry for writing a novel, good luck!

 

[Dan V]

[ QUOTE ]
About to do my LUK this weekend and am preparing myself for the chance that the rear main is leaking
If I just get the international seal, what tools do I need to get it out and install a new one???
thanks in advance

[/ QUOTE ]

When you order the seal from IH, it will come with a wear ring, and it will have a new mount. When you get the flywheel off, just unbolt the old seal mounting flange, find a good way to get the old flange off. Clean the surface on the pan, and clean the sealing area on the crank.

Do not seperate the new wear ring from the seal! Now the proper procedure is to apply a lock-tite, (I think they spec 271 or 272) product to the sealing surface on the crank. Apply the T442 sealer to the flange. Using the flywheel adapter and four (or all) the bolts, mine was an auto, draw the sealing ring on to the crank. Remember to line up the dowel pins that index the mounting flange. Install the bolts and you're done.

No special tools required /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

[Tarheelstroker]

Where do you get the permatex, think its the same as the IH grey stuff but I dont have an international dealer within hundered miles, thanks for the novel milner! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[markcprice]

when i replaced the seal, i had no visible wear on the crank; but the idea of a seal with a wear ring is good. I pressed mine on with the old dmflywheel adapter ring as well. You may call ford, which i didn't check about the sealant. or call an international dealer, get the specs of the sealant and then try to cross=ref it at napa, etc.

Just found the container...part is international t-442(rtv silicone rubber) Probably similar to other rtv's in effect, but it does seem more sealant like to me and it touts to provide more "stretch" or modulus of elastisity than normal.

Couldn't find loctite for crank to wear ring so the man at international suggested - Permatex formagasket 2A. this may work for seal plate as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[milner351]

I have good success with the permatex gray... any autoparts store should have it. I'm not at all familiar with the IH stuff, I'm sure it's great too.

The wear groove in the crank of the '91 we did twice was noticeable, as I guess is no surprise with nearing 280k on the original engine.

I would think the ultimate fix is the wear sleeve for the crank and the seal purchased together. Sounds like the IH kit is a nice set up.

Surprising to me though that the IH kit comes with the steel block plate... or am I understanding one of these posts wrong? The key if you DONT have a wear ring is the "sleeve trick" I described above with the for sale sign. You must have something to guide the seal over the crank.

 

[markcprice]

The kit comes with a new seal plate, i guess because the plate is thin and the sealant can allow for deformity if removed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif. the flywheel plate trick for the wear ring is for those who have the old dmf parts still. the little ~5" flywheel plate has many bolt holes to help press on the wear ring. The seal doesnt need coaxing b/c it should remain on the wear ring unremoved during whole process.

 

[Dan V]

Milner,

My research showed that you could only get the replacement seal with the wear ring. So if you run into a truck that has a wear ring installed, that of course must be removed before the new goes on. And yes, it does come with a new mounting plate. Whatever that T442 stuff is....it really sticks things on. Oh and the instructions for the T442 says that you have 3 minutes to get the flange on. The same sealant is used on the oil pan....3 minutes there as well.

 

[milner351]

thanks for the clarification.... must be different on the older IDI's I'm familiar with. Sounds like that's another upgrade from Navistar on the PSD!