[Tony_ONeil]

Is it difficult to change? Based on what I've read I have the Ford 10.5 Diff.
Called a few places, lowest estimate I got was "Maybe $250" the others was ~$300 as well.

If someone could give me a little instructions sheet or tell me how they did it I would be very greatful.

 

[noall8ball]

I had to make a puller to get the yoke off. it had a bit of rust and was a PITA. Then I cleaned off the old silicone and crud and reinstalled the new one then using two large washers and the retaining nut with an impact wrench to press the yoke back on. you have to be careful not to tighten the yoke to the crush sleeve that keeps the backlash in spec.I had to run it up and then loosen the nut many times to check for slack in the bearings to make sure I didnt go too far with the impact. Once it gets close I used a ratchet and cheater pipe by hand to get it tight without crushing the sleeve any. This IS NOT the professional way by no means. You SHOULD use a torque wrench. I have a lot of experience with auto repair and do recommend to do it the correct way if you do or dont have the experience. I did it about 45k ago and have not had a problem. Dont forget to wet the new seal before you press it in the housing unless you have to use a wear ring to repair the yoke. Hope this helps.

 

[NCHornet]

Be glad you don't have a DRW the torque spec is 460 ft lbs!!!
You need to know what you are doing as the torque spec is not the usual crank down torque, it is break away torque or soemthing like that. Ford quoted me $120 for parts and labor, can't see ho yours should be anymore. Have you tried the local dealer?

 

[FleetMan]

If you just need a seal, it is not very expensive, even at dealer prices. The job is flat rated at approx 1.5 hours by Ford. Depending on dealer labor rates, it could be anywhere from $100.00 on up. You may need a yoke in addition to a seal and that would add a bit more to the overall costs. Smokey Wren has posted the factory replacement procedures for this job a number of times, you should be able to find them using the search function.

 

[SmokeyWren]

My dealer charged me 1.3 labor hours plus $13.23 for parts plus $1.17 for miscl shop supplies plus tax. Total was way less than $100 back then, and probably wouldn't be more than $100 now. But his labor rate was only $45 back then (05/2002).

That job on a Ford Superduty SRW pickup requires too many special tools and too much exacting work for me to even think about doing it on my driveway.

But if you think you might want to try, then here's the words from the workshop manual:

SECTION 205-02E: Rear Drive Axle/Differential — Ford 10.50-Inch Ring Gear
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Procedure revision date: 03/24/2004

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Drive Pinion Flange and Drive Pinion Seal


Special Tool(s)
2-Jaw Puller 205-D026 (D80L-1002-L) or equivalent
Installer, Drive Pinion Flange 205-233 (T85T-4851-AH)
Holding Fixture, Drive Pinion Flange 205-012 (T57T-4851-B)
Installer, Drive Pinion Oil Seal 205-208 (T83T-4676-A)

Removal

NOTE: The rear axle shafts must be removed to prevent drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.

Remove the rear axle shafts.

Remove the driveshaft.

Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut, and record the rotational torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.

CAUTION: After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.

Use the Flange Holder to hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion nut.

Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment during installation.

Use the 2-Jaw Puller to remove the pinion flange.

Force up on the metal flange of the rear axle drive pinion seal. Install gripping pliers to the seal flange and strike with a hammer until the rear axle drive pinion seal is removed.

Installation

Lubricate the new pinion seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

CAUTION: If the rear axle drive pinion seal becomes misaligned during installation, remove the rear axle drive pinion seal and replace it with a new seal.

Use the Pinion Seal Replacer to install the rear axle drive pinion seal.

Lubricate the pinion flange splines.
Use SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
NOTE: Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.

Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.

With the pinion flange in place in the rear axle housing, install the pinion flange using the Companion Flange Replacer.

Position the new pinion nut.

CAUTION: Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.

Use the Flange Holder to hold the pinion flange while tightening the pinion nut.

Tighten the pinion nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating properly. Take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained by rotating the pinion with a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.

If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specification for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded.

Install the driveshaft.

Install the axle shafts.

 

[NCHornet]

Let's all move to Smokey's neighborhood, our local dealera shop rate is $85 per hour!! One more reason why I don't take my truck there unless there is no other way!!

 

[SmokeyWren]

It's not the neighborhood, it's the dealer. I think he charges $50 or $55 labor rate now. But the Honda dealer for my wife's Odyssey charges something like $95, so I try very hard not to go there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Oneof6]

[ QUOTE ]
Let's all move to Smokey's neighborhood, our local dealera shop rate is $85 per hour!! One more reason why I don't take my truck there unless there is no other way!!

[/ QUOTE ]

Changing out a pinion seal, without changing and or damaging some internal gear set parts is MUCH more difficult and tedious than the typical Dealership Mechanic will go through. Consequently, you can get a nice new seal and have it cost you a gear set or internal differential bearings later if it is not done just right. Just because it is a dealership doesn't directly translate into success, regardless of the charge rate. In my area just the opposite, high charge rate low competence at several dealerships. The trick is to find someone that focuses their attention on the internal differential parts that are unseen without disassembly and not so much the external seal, that is the easy part.

 

[arisley]

[ QUOTE ]
Is it difficult to change? Based on what I've read I have the Ford 10.5 Diff.
Called a few places, lowest estimate I got was "Maybe $250" the others was ~$300 as well.

If someone could give me a little instructions sheet or tell me how they did it I would be very greatful.

[/ QUOTE ]

Is it leaking (leaving a spot on the ground) or just weeping, if it is just weeping (no drips), I would live with it. You can spend a lot of money and have it start weeping again within a few thousand miles. Or worse yet, like the above poster stated, ruin a ring and pinion set, that is really bad.

 

[nchappy]

just paid $140 at Babbit Ford in Flagstaff

 

[NCHornet]

[ QUOTE ]
It's not the neighborhood, it's the dealer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Smokey,
You know what I meant! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Airsley, is right, mine was weeping and now it is all sealed up.

 

[Tony_ONeil]

thanks for the comments, and thanks for the instructions SmokeyWren

Still considering doing it myself, it doesnt leak bad (that i know of when driving), but when the truck slopes down it will drip enough to bother me...or anyones driveway that it sits in. especially since the lube for it is $20bucks at my local checker.
The $250 dollar quote was from the ford dealership where the truck was purchased. she said it would cost at least 250, depending on what else they would try to squeeze out of me i suppose. she told me it was a 2.2hr job.
The $300 dollar quote is from a champion auto parts store that i used to trust because they did good/cheap work on my old wrangler. probably wont be going back there again.

i'll let you guys know what i decide and how it turns out.