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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I’m new to ford trucks and I’m not sure if this is normal or not it seems like I’ve hear people talk about this problem before but not sure. Was driving on the rear tank and was about at the 1/4 mark on the gage and all of a sudden the engine stopped. So I switch takes (good thing the front was full) and cranked a few time to get the air out and started up and ran fine. So is this a fuel pickup problem on the rear tanks or is it a gage problem? Or is it a ford thing? And is it fixable?
 

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Fuel tank 1/4 full...

I have a '90 F350 that went thru that on both tanks... there is a plastic gizmo on the end of the fuel pickup tube that has a redirect tube with a flapper valve that is supposed to allow the truck to continue to run if the end of the pickup tube becomes plugged; if yours dies at 1/4 tank the end is either plugged or like in my case, apparently plastic dissolves in diesel after 15 years... mine just had a bunch of plastic chunks floating in it, I couldn't even tell what it was supposed to be. Your options are to go to Ford and buy a new fuel pickup tube/sending unit assembly, or if you don't need the whole assembly, buy the whole assembly, get the part number off of the plastic gizmo with the flapper valve, order 2 of them (the front tank will do it next week:sneaky:) and when they come in take the assembly back. The Ford parts dealers I talked to didn't admit to being able to find the plastic gizmo, but if you call them with the Ford part number that's stamped on the plastic gizmo on the assembly (which has a different number) they can order just the plastic gizmo... The plastic part is only $20, I think the assembly was about $180 (I bought an assembly, dropped one tank, noticed the other part number and wrote it down, then a week later the back tank ran out at 1/3, and I ordered just the $20 part:ford:). Keep in mind there is the option that some jelled fuel or junk plugged the lower part on the original; it might be worth the time to try to gently blow some compressed air or pour some kerosene in the line before you go to the trouble of dropping the tank...:icon_mad:

90 Ford F350 Crewcab dually, Banks wastegated turbo, JDM intercooler, GearVendors gearsplitter, performance-built E4OD, Dacus billet torque-converter, pulls a 14000 lb 2004 Montana Big Sky and anything else I want to move...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the info.
 

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Most dealers won't take back a special order part and if they do they'll charge the typical 20% restocking charge.
 

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If you try blowing air into the pickup line you may damage the upper bypass valve in the pickup.... on the return line there is also a check valve, but pressure must be limited to 5 PSI max in the return lines..
 

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Before you go dropping the tank and spending money on parts, did you just make a fast stop, or a sharp turn right before the thing quit on you?
If so, keep your wallet closed. These tanks are wide and long and depending on which tank and the offending driving situation, you can starve a healthy pickup at 1/4 tank by slamming on the brakes when the fuel sloshes forward starving the pickup, or when pulling a hard turn the fuel sloshes to one side starving the pickup and in rare cases( had this happen one time trying to get out into heavy traffic) when standing on the throttle REAL hard it can slosh the fuel to the rear of the tank starving the pickup. Driving on an incline can get you in trouble in a hurry. Rule of thumb, never let it get below 1/4 even when everything is working , not easy with the pitifully small tanks on these things( reason I have a 150 gal tank in the bed :thumbsup:

It is to an extent a ford thing, if used to driving GM vehicles, they always have a massive reserve below empty, I have never driven a ford vehicle where E didn't mean E and usually a bit before E meant break out the comfortable shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for info rldsl but i was just driven through my neighborhood @ 25mph on the rear tank when she died
 

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spartanamt

I would suggest lifting the bed off if you have some sort of lift. I personally used two come alongs attached to beams and lifted it off that way. Its only 6 bolts, four screws and a couple electrical conections to disconnect.

I have done it both ways and to me it was EASIER to lift the bed off. That way you have acess to both tanks and can trouble shoot easier ie the tanks are simultaneously accessable....my head crew chief also does it this way.....(he works on Kiowa Warrior helicopters for a living).

Good Luck!!!
 
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