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Rebuild or recycle?

2105 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  TKOPerformance
The last three months my truck has been needing work left and right. It all began when my radiator cracked and drained everywhere. So I figured that I should remove the ERG as it was more than likely damaged. Completed that then wouldn’t start, next fix was HPOP was dead and needed a new one. After that Stuck VGT Veins and a lack of power. Sorted that and then here is where thing got interesting.

Afterwards I took the truck for a short drive about 1000 miles. I noticed once I started the trip, I could hear an audible hissing sound when the truck when I was driving and when the boost exceeded 20psi and it would go all the way up to 28psi and then make a choo choo sound like negative pressure had built up and the turbo was blowing it off or pushing it backwards. Also I had a loss of power even though I was pressing on the accelerator and the boost was climbing. The hissing noise slowly started becoming noticeable at lower and lower boost pressure (like 10psi) until the boost would climb and the turbo would make the stutter sound. All while I would lose speed when going up a hill. I stopped and shut the truck off, because my tuner (not installed) was showing oil temperature of 240 degreed but the coolant was down at 198. These temperatures are way outside of what the Ford delta-t recommends and it was not normal to what I’m used to seeing.

I opened the hood and saw gray foam seeping from the coolant reservoir. I didn’t restart the truck and had it towed to a dealership where it sat for 3 weeks, and they didn’t turn a wrench on it.

I was not pulling a load it was just me and some gear in the back no more than 500lbs additional weight.

Recent fixes are:
EGR Delete
Upgraded Oil Cooler
VGT cleaning

Help I like my 2005 6.0L Diesel Excursion. We get complements everywhere we go. 409387 miles. I'm just hopping that I don't need a total rebuild. Thank you.
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Gray foam sounds like fuel in the coolant. 6.0 heads can crack through an injector bore and cause this. There's a test somewhere on this forum for determining if that's the cause.
Wow, didn't know there was such a tool. I'd definitely give that a shot before replacing the head if you can isolate the offending cylinder.
A blown HG is not going to cause oil and coolant to mix. It will cause coolant to enter a cylinder resulting in lost coolant, white smoke/steam from the exhaust, and eventually hydrolocking the engine.

A cracked head might allow oil and coolant to mix, depending on the location of the crack. 6.0 heads typically crack either in the deck between exhaust valve seats, or through an injector bore. The injector bore crack could cause fuel from the rail in the head to get into the coolant as there is a pressed in cup that seals the two, so if the cup fails or there's a crack in that area fuel and coolant can mix, typically fuel, being under greater pressure, is pushed into the coolant. I believe that the GP sleeve creates a seal between the oil and the coolant, but I'm not sure if the oil in that area is under pressure, and if not you'd get coolant in the oil, not the other way around. Contamination is going to go from high pressure to low pressure.

In my experience what causes oil in the coolant is a ruptured oil cooler. I think that's a more likely scenario than it being caused by a head issue, but anything is possible.
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I've heard of guys pulling the front clip to do the HGs. I think it would be better than not doing it, but definitely not as god as pulling the cab. A lot of the interference you have is from the firewall.

If you have space for a lift now would be the time to go ahead and buy it. You can pick up a high quality used lift for about $1,500. Add in about $500 to have it professionally wired and some money for anchor bolts, renting a hammer drill if you need to, etc. That's $2,000. You're going to pay at least $3,500 in labor to have the work done.

I bought my lift a year before doing my HGs and was able to do them cab off, and it was comfortable and easy. The time spent pulling the cab was worth every second, as I could stand upright next to the engine and work on it, knowing I got the heads seated right, etc.

That being said, if your body can tolerate it, it can be done cab on, and the Ford shop manual breaks it down that way. Personally I see it as an exercise in masochism.
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Started small, replaced the oil cooler and now it wont start. All the connections have been reconnected and nothing lost or broken. It cranks until I drain the battery. The only consistent codes are P0407 exhaust position sensor and P1000 OBD sensor. I have flushed the degas bottle and the radiator as best I could I'm trying to flush the rest of the system but I cannot start the truck. I have a check gauge light but none of the gauges are even reading anything because the truck isn't warm enough to start reading from them. Any other suggestions, please.
Did you drain the oil from the reservoir where the oil cooler sits?
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