I just bought an '89 F-350 with the IDI engine and it smokes and is hard to start which may explain the $1200 price tag. I'm not familiar with these engines but I'm planning to start with new glow plugs, but then should I go for a ring and bearing kit, or try and find a replacement?
Rebuild or replace??
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Where are you located? Please fill that part out in your signature, and while you're at it, please permanently fill out details of your vehicle as well. It'll help us help you.
I ask where you're located, because depending on the areas in the US, there seems to be a great variance in the number of available used IDI engines/trucks.
I don't think you should run out any do any overhaul/replacement just yet- what color is the smoke? It could be as simple as a timing issue...
I ask where you're located, because depending on the areas in the US, there seems to be a great variance in the number of available used IDI engines/trucks.
I don't think you should run out any do any overhaul/replacement just yet- what color is the smoke? It could be as simple as a timing issue...
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325 Posts
I'd run a compression test first. It may be as simple as leaky return lines on the injectors. Or bad pump and injectors. how many miles on the motor?
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12,232 Posts
First smell the smoke.......... fuel is good, oil is not so good, anti freeze is bad.
Don't be buying anything yet....... don't pull the GPs yet until you have read all the warnings re heads of the GPs breaking off..... if swelled.
Hard to start as in the starter is spinning the engine faster than you can count but it will not start......... How much time does the WTS (wait to start) light stay on.
Don't be buying anything yet....... don't pull the GPs yet until you have read all the warnings re heads of the GPs breaking off..... if swelled.
Hard to start as in the starter is spinning the engine faster than you can count but it will not start......... How much time does the WTS (wait to start) light stay on.
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325 Posts
Good points, keep it simple !
If I'm understanding the previous posts on glow plugs I need to somehow get rid of the carbon in the heads and get the heads good and warm before trying to remove the glow plugs and it be advisable to get the OTC tool to remove them. Should I get a replacement timer at the same time?
Does anyone have a suggestion as to a good shop manual for these engines, and which specialized tools should be purchased to maintain them. I live in a very rural area where the nearest auto parts store is 60 some miles away other than a New Holland dealer that can order parts if you can afford them.
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677 Posts
you can test the glow plugs with just a test light.if you need new gp get the zd-9 at 7.3 Liter Diesel Motorcraft Glow Plugs - Ford 7.3 Liter Diesel Motorcraft Glow Plug just to let you know dont use any type of quick start to start the truck.dont run the starter for more then 12 seconds with a 2 minute brake or you will cook the starter.
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926 Posts
As far as a good shop manual...the best one I've found is currently the forum you're looking at right now.
Some guys here are VERY helpful, and by searching you can most likely find everything you need to know. CDNSARGUY alone could write his own thesis on these engines.:read:
Some guys here are VERY helpful, and by searching you can most likely find everything you need to know. CDNSARGUY alone could write his own thesis on these engines.:read:
As an update, I got home with some time off and took the truck for a longer drive, it burns 1 gal. of 15-40 Rotella in 60 miles or 3.85 L in 100 km, it's a constant blue smoke except in hills it turns black, 4 glow plugs have continuity, 4 do not, fuel economy, I'm getting 18 mpg at 2200 rpm and 60 mph. The engine seems to run fairly smooth at all speeds with no misses that I can tell, so I'm hoping to get away with a re-ring and bearing job as well as new injectors and glow plugs. Is this within the realm of reality or am I just being wishful that this will cure everything?
P.S. Is this kit from EBay a good place to sart for $585.? 1988-93 Ford Truck Diesel 7.3L Engine Rebuild Kit 7.3
P.S. Is this kit from EBay a good place to sart for $585.? 1988-93 Ford Truck Diesel 7.3L Engine Rebuild Kit 7.3
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3,541 Posts
To do what you say. AutoZone price's or Ebay may be less if you can find them or an IH truck dealer
Gasket set-------------------230
Valley Pan (Intake gasket)---- 67
Main Brg's Std. --------------110
Rod Brg's Std. ---------------104
Piston Ring's Std.-------------205
Rear Main seal W/wear ring-----50
Crankshaft seal W/wear ring----50
Cylinder Hone deglazier---------25
Injector fuel supply kit--------- 30
Radiator hoses--------------- 100
Oil cooler O'ring's & gaskets-----40
total---$1135
Glow plugs from above source $90
Course you have to have an engine stand and a hoist. No sales tax in Oregon
Gasket set-------------------230
Valley Pan (Intake gasket)---- 67
Main Brg's Std. --------------110
Rod Brg's Std. ---------------104
Piston Ring's Std.-------------205
Rear Main seal W/wear ring-----50
Crankshaft seal W/wear ring----50
Cylinder Hone deglazier---------25
Injector fuel supply kit--------- 30
Radiator hoses--------------- 100
Oil cooler O'ring's & gaskets-----40
total---$1135
Glow plugs from above source $90
Course you have to have an engine stand and a hoist. No sales tax in Oregon
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850 Posts
One of the problems you might have is the CDR valve. If it deteriotes, it allows the motor to suck to much oil out of the crank-case instead of just the vapors.
Might want to check that first before you tear the motor down.
Might want to check that first before you tear the motor down.
Thank you, I'm in favor of any labor savers. Will order one and install it along with new glow plugs when I get back from Alaska in 2 weeks. Tried checking the relay for the GP's and traced wires back to the switch which is broken off behind the dash. All I have is a facade??? Just more items to repair!
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3,541 Posts
WoW -- Set of Pistons W/rings that cheap. Like I said he may find other places cheaper.
Was just giving him a ball park figure on the cost of rebuilding that engine, just in case he didn't know. If he is going to tear it down and rebuild, it will prolly be a little more, maybe a water pump, fuel pump, sealers (RTV), oil filter, intake air filter, CDR valve, tool's and stuff like that.
Wasn't promoting Azone, but I sure wish I had some stock in it, shot up 20+ buc's last couple week's.
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6,655 Posts
factory manual
The factory manual isn't great, but it's a lot better than nothing. It works in a power failure, too, so if you can't get here (or can't wait) then you might want one
I think the quality of a Ford FSM is not what it ought to be, it certainly is not up to the quality of any imports' FSM I've ever seen (including Nissan, Subaru, and MBZ.) But it's about a trillion times better than a Chilton's.
Besides what all the experienced folks said here, it's probably worth mentioning that you can get a factory manual on ebay for like twenty bucks. The chassis manual costs a lot more, but you don't need it as much. I bought one for my 92 anyway and it has already helped me understand the engine, if nothing else.
The factory manual isn't great, but it's a lot better than nothing. It works in a power failure, too, so if you can't get here (or can't wait) then you might want one
I think the quality of a Ford FSM is not what it ought to be, it certainly is not up to the quality of any imports' FSM I've ever seen (including Nissan, Subaru, and MBZ.) But it's about a trillion times better than a Chilton's.
As a further update, replaced the CDR valve and rubbers, added new glow plugs and controller, the bad news is that it still goes thru the same amount of oil, a gallon every 60 miles, so I've now resigned myself to go for rings and bearings and hope we don't find more problems in the teardown.
Right, the first thing you will hear from some people that don't know how the CDR functions is that it will go "bad" and cause oil consumption. All these IDI engines are about 15 to 20+ years old now so if you're going the rings and bearings route (rings are probably your problem), the wise thing to do would be take the heads in for a valve job at the same time. There's a good chance you need new valve guides too. As a general rule, camshaft brgs. wear very little compared to rods, mains, and rings, so chances are they're OK. Same applies to timing gears.
Since you probably don't have access to a micrometer, you'd be VERY wise to Plasti-Gage all your main and rod bearings so you know your clearances are within specs, especially since your dealing with a crank with unknown hours and wear on it. I'd also buy a ribbon gauge (they're cheap) of the right thickness to make sure your piston to cyl wall clearance is OK too.
The genuine Ford shop manual is excellent, the best out there. It covers everything and is what the dealership mechanics use. If you get one off Ebay, etc, make sure it's from Helm publishing. They've made the Ford manuals for decades.
Oregon Outback (hi desert)---- anywhere near Vale, Juntura, or Burns by chance? I used to visit a buddy around there.
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6,655 Posts
Did you do a compression/leakdown test?
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