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REBUILT 6.4L LEAKY FREEZE PLUGS

9K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  jk_diesel 
#1 · (Edited)
I Have a 2008 6.4 ford diesel, 146k miles, had cracked heads pulled the motor, decided to go through the whole motor, machine shop said i needed cylinders honed out to 20 over, crank needed ground 10 under,ETC...So what i have is a totally rebuilt 6.4, cryo treated new connecting rods and pins, new piston, river city diesel stage2 cam shaft chromoly pushrods valve spring, o ringed heads, ARP studs, H&S MINI MAX,........NOW MY ISSUE, all put together, runs smooth, never had a diesel so smooth, cant even tell its running when in the cab, very smooth, but when i hold it at 2000 rpms i am leaking antifreeze from the freeze plugs, yes PLUGS, one is dripping, a consistent drip and two are seeping, the machine shop that did the work and installed the freeze plugs said that he didnt put rebuilders cube in and most shops put that stuff in for this purpose, he says i could try bars stop leak tablets...Is this true, i know it would probably stop the leak but didnt want a bandad on my new motor, and wasnt sure if that stuff will hurt my new oil cooler, so would be nice to get a few opinions on this, and what i should do, THANKS
 
#2 · (Edited)
bars stop leak tablets?

Well, i need to do somthin, cant get to the freeze plugs with out pulling motor mounts, and on top of that pounding them in is going to be a bear, 2 on passenger side 1 on driver and i cant tell if the ones on the back of motor are seepin. should bars stop leak or rebuilders cube be used on 6.4 diesel??? or do i need to pull the motor and replace them??? it would be nice to get some advice from some experts.
 
#3 ·
First, slap your machinist on both sets of cheeks with a two by four. Next, get a bottle of Loctite 540. Buy one for your machinist as well if you ever want him to work on anything you own. You're going to have to drain the coolant below the level of the casting plugs. After pulling the old plugs, clean the block side best you can with a wire brush followed by acetone. Put a small bead of the Loctite on the plug, maybe wipe some on the block side if you can get to it and put the plug in. Let it sit for 24 hours before you put the coolant in. Guaranteed no leak.

Do NOT put Bar's leak in anything, much less anything with an oil cooler with small passageways like the 6.0 or 6.4. You'll be replacing that shortly if you do.
 
#6 ·
LOL YEAH THIS SUCKS, I ended talking to another machine shop, and he said pull the motor, replace all the freeze plugs, if i dont i maybe on a trip somewhere and blow one out, i also compared it to another 6.4 truck i have, and the machinist didnt even put the plugs in as far, and the stuff he used to seal the plugs was permatex #2 a none hardening form a gasket, and the 2 other machine shops i talked to use permatex #1 a hard sealant... Well the cab s coming off tomorrow, its already all ready to lift off so hopefully i can get it all done in a day... PFFFFFFFFFF what a nightmare 12 bucks in freeze plugs and all this freekin labor for somthin that should have already been done.

I asked about the stop leak stuff because other shops actually say they use a rebuilders cube which they say it is similar to the bars dissolving tablets, and they put it in the block before you take it..
 
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