[lvdiesel]

I have just installed a rebuilt IP on my 93 F250 non turbo 4x4 with a 5 speed. I printed out some of the suggestions you guys have made on what to do to start after installing the pump. I have tried them all and I can't seem to get it to start. I cracked all the injectors until they bled and same with opening the valve on the fuel filter to make sure there was fuel in there. I am now getting a fuel filter light that I hadn't noticed before while turning it over. I don't know if that has anything to do with it but if you have any other ideas on what may be going on please let me know, I am in desperate need of getting this truck back in running order.

 

[tim94f250]

I haven't done an injection pump R&R, But I know you shouldn't remove the gear or tower. If you did, you're going to have to go to zigg's page and check the info he has there about fixing the gear alignment and such. If you did it right, make sure the connections to the IP are not backwards. You need to hear a click when you turn the key on and off. (Fuel Shutoff Solenoid.) Good luck, Tim

 

[lvdiesel]

I didn't take anything else out but the pump itself and thought the pump was alinged because if not it wouldn't go on because of the screws that need to go in the front and the key that slides in.

 

[tim94f250]

OK. That's good news. Got all the air out? Glow plugs working? Is that fuel shutoff working? Batteries up to snuff? Good cranking speed? Lift pump good? Fuel filter warning light indicates a plugged filter. Change the filter. Did you align the timing marks on the pump?

 

[lvdiesel]

I am almost 100% sure all the air is out and I had to jump at the same time I tried to start because I lost all juice the last time I tried to start before replacing the pump. I wasn't aware that I needed to align anything. I thought there was only one way the pump could go in because of the notch in the shaft. So what you are saying also is that if the filter light is coming on while I am cranking then it is bad? I opened the valve for a few seconds while cranking to make sure there was fuel in it and I had fuel coming out at a pretty good rate.

 

[icanfixall]

The fuel lite coming on means the filter is pulling a vacuum. It may be plugged or the lift pump just went bad on you. The injection pump needs to be timed so it runs at about 8 deg advanced. When you installed it behind the nuts that held it to the gear tower you would have seen that the pump bolt holes were slotted. Thats so you can move it towards either the right or left to time it. All you need to move it is about the thickness of a dime either dirrection. Really it sounds to me that the timing is off. Try loosing the upmp and moving it right or left. The nuts I'm refering to are the 9/16, not the 3 that are behind the diamond shape cover just above the water pump. I hope this helps out. If not try posting more info.

 

[lvdiesel]

so you are talking about the three bolts that are on the side of the fuel lines? if I losen those and turn it one way try to start it and then move it the other way that will correct the timing? Is there any other way for me to make sure it is correct? I will replace the fuel filter then too just to make sure that is not an issue but that is what would be causing the fuel filter light to come on while starting?

 

[tim94f250]

Aside from the timing issue, you really need good batteries in order to get good cranking speed. If it's not cranking fast enough, you can have a hard time starting any diesel truck. The timing marks are right on top of the top mounting nuts. They may be hard to see, very faint. Don't worry about the fuel filter now. The light is supposed to illuminate while cranking.

 

[lvdiesel]

there is a mark right in between the mounting bolts and its right on the mark on the pump itself. So, in reality the pump would be timed correctly right? what would be my next move? I will hook up my other car to the batteries so I get the cranking power.

 

[OkieGringo]

[ QUOTE ]
there is a mark right in between the mounting bolts and its right on the mark on the pump itself. So, in reality the pump would be timed correctly right? what would be my next move? I will hook up my other car to the batteries so I get the cranking power.

[/ QUOTE ]

There is supposed to be a scribe mark across the pump and the tower where they meet. With the marks lined up it should start. After my IP was rebuilt the marks don't line up anymore and the timing is set at the factory specified 8.5 BTC @2000 rpm. The scribe marks on the IP are now 1/16" to the drivers side. If you can afford it, I highly recommend installing a electric lift pump NOW, it makes what you're trying to do SO MUCH EASIER. If you need the part # for the e-pump, just ask. Baja

 

[cdnsarguy]

Why don't you just tow start it............it's a 5 speed. Don't be pezzing with starters and jump starts....... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

 

[rawpower]

I second the elec pump... Then you can fill the fuel bowl while the trucks off to decrease on cranking time after changing hte fuel filter...

And I also second the pop-the-clutch start...who needs a starter?

 

[BuilderBob]

$21 for a lift pump, very easy,

I will never forget having my truck pulled to start it.
F-350 pulling a F-250, both in 4 wheel, dry tar, but -30 degF.
No battery power, torn down by the starter, nothing for the GP's.
Bucking, snorting, backfiring, when it finally was running it was loud clanking, nothing was easy.

 

[lvdiesel]

So the marks don't neccessarily match up from a rebuild? I tried getting it to turn over while finding the correct timing and think I fried the starter. So far new IP, new battery, and I think a new starter. I'm about to throw in the towel on this one and it's only my first.
From the timing marks is there a direction I should try first? towards the drivers side or the passenger side?

 

[OkieGringo]

Just leave it with the marks aligned, it should start. I'm going to throw in the IP wiring directions since you've taken everything off.
Ok, here's what you need to do. Turn on key to 'run' position. Check the main wire that comes from the loom to the IP (injection pump), does it have juice. The wire runs to the FSS (fuel shutoff switch) connector first, then to one side of the 'two-prong sensor', When the engine is cold 'juice' will pass thru the sensor, if the sensor is good, and go to either the FIS (fast idle solenoid) or the CTA (cold timing advance), then to the other. If the engine is cold and sensor is good it will be 'closed' and allow 'juice' to get to the FIS plunger which holds the idle speed up. If FIS plunger is working, but not pushing up far enough, use a 1/4" wrench to turn/extend it until the idle speed is ~1000 rpm. The CTA (cold timing advance) near the spider/distribution end of the IP 'advances the timing' to make engine run smoother/run cleaner/less smoke. The 'two-prong sensor' opens/shuts off the electricity to the FIS and CTA after engine reaches 112 degrees, and engine speed/rpm will/should drop to ~650 rpm. If these three items are working correctly, when you go to start engine, hold the throttle pedal at least 1/2 way to floor to allow the FIS plunger to 'set' itself. Use a test light to check for electricity/juice at each of the solenoids, FSS, FIS and CTA. Let me know if this helps. Good luck, Baja

 

[cdnsarguy]

Visit my gallery for some info........

 

[lvdiesel]

thanks I will try this out.