[gregrob]

Ok, see what you guys think of my ideal setup and recommend an amp to me.

Kenwood HU, Nice one with 3 preamp outs, MP3 support, aux input etc, remote etc. Probably 50 watts x 4 or something.

Infinity Kappa Components in the front doors. 2-85w RMS - 255w Peak power. Also, tweeters mounted on A or B pillar, Sail Panel or Door.

Some cheaper Rockford or Kenwood etc components in the back.

(2) JL Audio W1 or W3 subs behind back seat. May add one or two more subs later. Not sure on the power handling.

My buddy has a killer system in his Escalade and uses Rockford amps. I really like the feature they have that allows you to have a BASS know. It basically connects a variable switch via LAN cable to the amps to allow you to control BASS output.

I don't have to have that feature as I have a Kenwood EQ that I will probably be using anyway.

So fire away, what amps have you guys used and had good/bad experience with? I want a good middle of the road setup. I can't spend $500 on it, but will pay more not to get junk.

Oh yeah, can I run the components and subs on 1 amp? 4-channel?

Thanks.

 

[pilot4life]

To run all 4 components and sub you wil need a 5 chann amp. Directed has a pretty beefy 5 chan amp 4x100w and 1x750w for the sub. Many amp manufactured have a bass control knob but your head unit should have that function too.

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
To run all 4 components and sub you wil need a 5 chann amp. Directed has a pretty beefy 5 chan amp 4x100w and 1x750w for the sub. Many amp manufactured have a bass control knob but your head unit should have that function too.

[/ QUOTE ]

Got a link for directed? I don't necissarily have to run the Back components with the Amp, although it would probably be better.

 

[Tallavana]

Yeh, to run a 4 channel you would have to run the fronts off the front two, the sub(s) off the rear two bridge mono, and the rear off deck power. Unless you tied the rear to the front. You wouldnt have fading capability, but it would drop the front two channels of the amp to 2ohms and increase the power output. I have a six channel amp with the rear two bridged to make it a five. But I dont have fading either. My rear mids and highs are tied to the front mids and highs off of two channels and the other two channels go to the two 6.5 mid bass in each front door.

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
Yeh, to run a 4 channel you would have to run the fronts off the front two, the sub(s) off the rear two bridge mono, and the rear off deck power. Unless you tied the rear to the front. You wouldnt have fading capability, but it would drop the front two channels of the amp to 2ohms and increase the power output. I have a six channel amp with the rear two bridged to make it a five. But I dont have fading either. My rear mids and highs are tied to the front mids and highs off of two channels and the other two channels go to the two 6.5 mid bass in each front door.

[/ QUOTE ]

What kind of 6 channel do you have? That sounds like a good plan.

 

[gregrob]

What about something like this?

Clicky

 

[Tallavana]

Its like that. Although I wouldnt recomend Pile. I have a PPI Pro650. I think they quit making them several years ago. It is a 6channel x 50 watts amp with a PPI456 cross over built in. It has the remote bass control also. They were about $1600.00 back then.

 

[gregrob]

Looking at something like this now.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-d2AE3NRMRQc...=2&sortBy=3

Would that be enough power to get some good thump out of 2 10's?

 

[pilot4life]

http://www.directed.com/audio/amps/default.asp

bottom of the page 5 chan hybrid. They are stout amps with a ton of power and not too bad of a price for what you get.


Please, please, please stay away from pyle for your own good.

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
http://www.directed.com/audio/amps/default.asp

bottom of the page 5 chan hybrid. They are stout amps with a ton of power and not too bad of a price for what you get.

[/ QUOTE ]

Nice, but way too spendy for me right now.

 

[gregrob]

One more question. If the impedance of my components is 2 ohms, I can run the amp at 2 ohms, almost doubling the output on some amps right?

One amp in particular is 60x4 @ 4ohms and 110x4 @ 2ohms.

 

[pilot4life]

If it were me then I would wait...it sucks to spend money on something twice...a smaller amp to look at would be a 4 chan amp with the rear change bridgable at 2 ohm with a sub crossover.

Heres one
http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/20...4643389049.html

And a smaller one

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/20...4643389067.html

Remember you cant get a huge sub...just something to fill in the sound. If you want more then you gotta go with a larger sub and more power and more $$.

 

[pilot4life]

Your components are 2 ohm??? that a little odd but ok.. yea make sure the amp is 2 ohm stable and yes it would be more power as you are driving the amp harder. Make sure it is a good quality amp as it will run hotter and possibly thermally shut off if it is mounted in an enclosed space or of poor quality.

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
Your components are 2 ohm??? that a little odd but ok..

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, see the specs here. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-d2AE3NRMRQc/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=50%2E7cs&i=108507CS

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
If it were me then I would wait...it sucks to spend money on something twice...a smaller amp to look at would be a 4 chan amp with the rear change bridgable at 2 ohm with a sub crossover.

Heres one
http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/20...4643389049.html

And a smaller one

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/20...4643389067.html

Remember you cant get a huge sub...just something to fill in the sound. If you want more then you gotta go with a larger sub and more power and more $$.

[/ QUOTE ]

What do you mean wait? I'm NEVER spending 900+ on an amp, never.
I don't think you have to spend that money to get decent sound.
If I need to I'll buy two amps, a 4-channel for the components and a 2 channel for the subs.
I'm all about piecing this thing together, small dollas at a time. eBay is my friend. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Thanks for the links.

 

[ddog]

I have been out of the Car Audio thing for a number of years, but we found we could get some pretty amazing results out of cheap-no name amps, by running big power cables to them.If the recommendation was 10 guage we would run 4 gauge. The bigger the power cable the better the performance regardless of brand. We used to modify the cable lugs to fit on the smaller terminals on Cheap amps. Amps not typically rated to be stable to 2 ohms would handle it with a large power cable. Be sure you don't cheap out the cables and make sure the power and ground are the same gauge even if your ground is short a run (under a seat bolt etc.) For what you are looking to spend on Cructchfield you could get THIS FROM DENNIS ITP Smokin Deals page if he still has it. Its older equipment but those are Precision Power Amps and they are quality components IMO. Although old the details page indicates it is new and never installed.From my recollection that combination of compnents would have been over a $1000 at that time. I considered it for a system for the wifes Mazda 6 but its not currently on the funding list relative to the home remodel project.

 

[gregrob]

I'm probably not buying ANYTHING from crutchfield. I just USE their site to find the stuff I want, then copy and paste the model number into eBay. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Can you say half price ebaby? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

[trich27]

I am a JL audio man. I just installed 4 10's behind the seat of my crew cab f250. JL component 5x7 in the front doors and 5x7 3 way in the rear. They did have to move the rear seat up about 2 inches to get the air space for the woofers. It didn't hurt leg room since ford is so roomy in the rear of the truck. Kenwood double din touch screen that fit perfect in the dash. Double din in definately the way to go. All pushed with a pair of JL amps totaling about 2500 watts. It did cost me about 2500 bucks but it was worth it. I've been into sound since I first started to drive, I'm 35 now. I'm into sound quality not that noise that just raddles the license plate. I've picked up some good deals on ebay for my other trucks. Sometimes you can pick up some brand new amps for cheap. I bought a 800 watt Rockford for 200 bucks. New just out of the model date. Just remember to look at the sellers history.

 

[ddog]

Even on ebay, two subs, two quality amps and a matching crossover would be tough to beat for 350.00. And Dennis you can call and get the straight poop. Plus from Dennis its is only going to cost actual shipping, not some of the inflated Ebay Shipping and handling you typically see on there. Its good for some things but you get what you "epay" for.

 

[gregrob]

Even with the inflated shipping costs you end up paying 60-70% of what crutchfield sells it for. Now I know crutchfield doesn't market themselves to be 'cheap', but even though, it is still a big savings.

I will only buy items that are NIB, from an established eBay store, and that have the same warranty, usually what ever the mfg offered.