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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much of a challenge is it to reinstall the egr Cooler? The truck I am looking at is deleted, to pass inspection I would need to put all the emmisions equipment back on, is it easy enough to do in a few hours?


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If REMOVED completely it is not a simple job. There are two coolers. Bare must be taken to reassemble and torque the fasteners and clamps as not to create stress on the parts that can lead to failure. It also depends on how far the removal went. Of there are block-offs for the cooler on the exhaust pipes in the rear it should not be too bad. If there has been a new pipe installed it's not going to be fun. But not impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If REMOVED completely it is not a simple job. There are two coolers. Bare must be taken to reassemble and torque the fasteners and clamps as not to create stress on the parts that can lead to failure. It also depends on how far the removal went. Of there are block-offs for the cooler on the exhaust pipes in the rear it should not be too bad. If there has been a new pipe installed it's not going to be fun. But not impossible.
I'm not sure if they took both coolers off of what, but here's the picture my salesman sent me, i want to see if it would be worth buying if I have to put the coolers back off for inspection,
ImageUploadedByAG Free1451241150.025575.jpg


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If you are getting a tremendous deal on this truck it may be worth it to do a re-install. Get a picture of the pipe the horizontal cooler attaches to; that will let you know if the pipe was removed or if a blocking plate was used. If the pipe was removed it was probably done by cutting it off. You will also have to replace all the coolant hoses and the EGR valve and housing. This will not be a "just a few hours" job. There are also other considerations for resetting the orginal tune once all the emission stuff is back on.

Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If you are getting a tremendous deal on this truck it may be worth it to do a re-install. Get a picture of the pipe the horizontal cooler attaches to; that will let you know if the pipe was removed or if a blocking plate was used. If the pipe was removed it was probably done by cutting it off. You will also have to replace all the coolant hoses and the EGR valve and housing. This will not be a "just a few hours" job. There are also other considerations for resetting the orginal tune once all the emission stuff is back on.



Keep us posted.

By no means a tremendous deal, but low miles, tunes and deleted, I can spend a little more but they are all stock and 115k miles so I'm not really sure
The tuner it was tuned with was just a sct 3015 using canned tunes.. I wools put it back to stock for a few weeks to pass inspection and figure out what I wanna do with it, but as I said not sure if it's even worth taking putting all this stuff back on
It's probably not worth it to put the egr back on, probably get a stock truck and then do it all myself, we will see I guess I have a lot of thinking to do


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The coolers are not cut. The pipe I'm talking about is where the horizontal cooler (top one in your picture) mounts. At the firewall end should be a mating pipe for the cooler (right hand end in your picture; the cooler would be rotated so that the hose would be underneath). If all that was done was to simply put a blocking plate on that pipe, you're golden as far as an EGR re-install. Mechanically speaking.

At that, if the EGR valve is still on the truck, there would also be a blocking plate where the vertical cooler tube attaches to the valve housing.

If you do this, go online to Sinister (Sinister Diesel - Diesel Performance Products and Accessories) and download the instructions. I did not buy my replacement coolers from them, but they have the best instructions.

The pic has an arrow to the vertical EGR tube/valve housing attachment. If this has a blocking plate, it is likely the lower one has one also. Note: This is not my engine.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The coolers are not cut. The pipe I'm talking about is where the horizontal cooler (top one in your picture) mounts. At the firewall end should be a mating pipe for the cooler (right hand end in your picture; the cooler would be rotated so that the hose would be underneath). If all that was done was to simply put a blocking plate on that pipe, you're golden as far as an EGR re-install. Mechanically speaking.

At that, if the EGR valve is still on the truck, there would also be a blocking plate where the vertical cooler tube attaches to the valve housing.

If you do this, go online to Sinister (Sinister Diesel - Diesel Performance Products and Accessories) and download the instructions. I did not buy my replacement coolers from them, but they have the best instructions.

The pic has an arrow to the vertical EGR tube/valve housing attachment. If this has a blocking plate, it is likely the lower one has one also. Note: This is not my engine.


So realisticly the coolers are not cut so it should be doable IF the egr is still in the truck? I imagine it would? I know nothing about egr delete so I really am clueless, but would it be worth it to reinstall those then? Thanks



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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm at the point where I need to make a decision and drive the 2 hours and hopefully buy it, the dealer is clueless on if there's a egr still in the truck or not, so I have to decide what I want to do if I get There I'm probably going to buy it


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Okay, good luck on this project. You did not say what year this was, but to be low miles at 115K I'm guessing 2008 or 2009. My '08 had 137K.
You will need gaskets for the EGR coolers. Ford has them for around $12. The two for the vertical piece are the same, just with an A and B part number. The one at the rear of the horizontal tube is different.(Dealer will need your VIN to get the right ones) You will also need the 4 studs and nuts for the v-egr, and the 2 bolts for the h-egr. The studs use a 5mm wrench or socket to run them in. Another important note here is to make sure the brackets that the egr coolers mount to are still there; you will need 2 clamps for each (see my picture). In stock trim, the v-egr uses 3 clamps.

Go ahead and brush up on your profanity.

Depending on your EGR valve, your coolant tubing may be different that in my picture. If the valve does not have piping on it, the hose from the upper portion of the v-egr will run to the surge tank T. The other hose will not be there. Your dealer should be able to print out a schematic for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Okay, good luck on this project. You did not say what year this was, but to be low miles at 115K I'm guessing 2008 or 2009. My '08 had 137K.

You will need gaskets for the EGR coolers. Ford has them for around $12. The two for the vertical piece are the same, just with an A and B part number. The one at the rear of the horizontal tube is different.(Dealer will need your VIN to get the right ones) You will also need the 4 studs and nuts for the v-egr, and the 2 bolts for the h-egr. The studs use a 5mm wrench or socket to run them in. Another important note here is to make sure the brackets that the egr coolers mount to are still there; you will need 2 clamps for each (see my picture). In stock trim, the v-egr uses 3 clamps.



Go ahead and brush up on your profanity.



Depending on your EGR valve, your coolant tubing may be different that in my picture. If the valve does not have piping on it, the hose from the upper portion of the v-egr will run to the surge tank T. The other hose will not be there. Your dealer should be able to print out a schematic for you.

It's a 08 with 80k miles I really like the truck but maybe it's not worth it to put all the stuff back on.

The one with 115k was a stock truck that is about 6 grand more then this truck and equipped the same... I really like the truck and deff up for the challenge to get it back together
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Also make sure the tuner is included to flash it back to stock. I don't think you can run it very long (or at all) with the current tune and the DPF reinstalled.

As far as the Egr coolers, they can be put back on but are a pain. There's a reason Ford put the EGR cooler for the 6.7 up on top the engine :) Check out You Tube; I know I've seen videos of the parts being taken off.

Also make sure the EGR valve, housing, and throttle body are still on or at least included with the truck. Many times these are all deleted & a simple elbow going to the intake is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also make sure the tuner is included to flash it back to stock. I don't think you can run it very long (or at all) with the current tune and the DPF reinstalled.



As far as the Egr coolers, they can be put back on but are a pain. There's a reason Ford put the EGR cooler for the 6.7 up on top the engine :) Check out You Tube; I know I've seen videos of the parts being taken off.



Also make sure the EGR valve, housing, and throttle body are still on or at least included with the truck. Many times these are all deleted & a simple elbow going to the intake is installed.

It has a sct 3015 tuner and looks like all the egr stuff is there, I'm not sure if it would be worth it? Low miles though


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We can't really help you with the "worth it" decision. You have never said which model (F250, 350, cab type, SRW/DRW, etc) it is. If a F350 SRW and less than $20K I would certainly go for it. It shouldn't cost more than $1500 at the outside to get everything back on, and to have it reflashed.

I just have a problem with a dealer knowing pretty much nothing about a vehicle he is selling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
We can't really help you with the "worth it" decision. You have never said which model (F250, 350, cab type, SRW/DRW, etc) it is. If a F350 SRW and less than $20K I would certainly go for it. It shouldn't cost more than $1500 at the outside to get everything back on, and to have it reflashed.



I just have a problem with a dealer knowing pretty much nothing about a vehicle he is selling.

F250 ccsb lariat asking 28 been on the lot for almost 3 months so I know there's some room for negotiating, all the dpf and egr stuff is in the back ready to be put back on.. What would cost 1500$ and I would have go get it reflashed? I though I would just have to load the stock tune?


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My three brothers and I have been through 11 Ford Diesel Trucks. We have created a 'mantra' amongst us: if it has been 'improved', modified, or 'molested in any way discernible; don't touch it! Never use equipment or 'field' fuel, never buy suspension or drivetrain modified trucks. Our trucks, purchased new and maintained in stock condition have served us well. I know people who have screened Ford engineers for interviews: believe me: billy-bob and his delete kit ain't helping these engines (or the environment). I also keep as much info as i can from this and other forums in a spreadsheet, to cross reference trucks that have been modified (by title holder name when available) so that i can avoid them at all cost if and when i buy a pre-owned truck.
 

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$28K seems to be a good price for that mileage range here in NC for a clean, stock truck. I gave $1500 to cover any parts and pieces you may need like the brackets, EGR valve, throttle body, and reflash. That amount should be a way outside estimate. Use it for negotiating. I don't know if the previous stock tune is still good; a reflash would also incorporate any updates; check with the shop.

Crawl all over this thing when you go check it out. Get down under it and really look at any points of leakage (bottom corner of the radiator on driver side is one). If the tuner shows temps for oil and coolant, watch them close when you test drive it. The EOT should not exceed the ECT by more than 10 degrees (the oil is cooled by hot coolant, so it would never be lower than the ECT once hot). Make sure the spare tire special tool (an anti-theft adapter that goes on the end of the jack rod; you can't lower or raise the tire without it, and the dealer charges $25 for it) is in either the glove box or in the tire tool bag.

Actually, if you originally intended to do a DPF and EGR delete, then you will be ahead of the game with this truck. It won't cost as much to put stuff back on, as it did the original owner to take it off and mount the tuner.

Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
$28K seems to be a good price for that mileage range here in NC for a clean, stock truck. I gave $1500 to cover any parts and pieces you may need like the brackets, EGR valve, throttle body, and reflash. That amount should be a way outside estimate. Use it for negotiating. I don't know if the previous stock tune is still good; a reflash would also incorporate any updates; check with the shop.



Crawl all over this thing when you go check it out. Get down under it and really look at any points of leakage (bottom corner of the radiator on driver side is one). If the tuner shows temps for oil and coolant, watch them close when you test drive it. The EOT should not exceed the ECT by more than 10 degrees (the oil is cooled by hot coolant, so it would never be lower than the ECT once hot). Make sure the spare tire special tool (an anti-theft adapter that goes on the end of the jack rod; you can't lower or raise the tire without it, and the dealer charges $25 for it) is in either the glove box or in the tire tool bag.



Actually, if you originally intended to do a DPF and EGR delete, then you will be ahead of the game with this truck. It won't cost as much to put stuff back on, as it did the original owner to take it off and mount the tuner.



Keep us posted.
I intend to do the delete so a truck with all the stuff and the tuner is a plus, it's a a sct not the touchscreen one so I'm not sure if it can read temps

I talked them down to 28 but that was as is, with a warranty (30 days or 1000 miles) that warranty would be up in a week for me when I first got it so I didn't think a warranty was a big deal, with the warranty they want 33 so if I could get it for around 27 i think I would have a good deal. Or I could get a stock truck, 125k miles but more expensive, so I can't really decide, keep going back and forth, I'm big afraid to put the egr and exhaust back on but a stock truck won't require work to pass emmisions


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