I'm not sure if they took both coolers off of what, but here's the picture my salesman sent me, i want to see if it would be worth buying if I have to put the coolers back off for inspection,If REMOVED completely it is not a simple job. There are two coolers. Bare must be taken to reassemble and torque the fasteners and clamps as not to create stress on the parts that can lead to failure. It also depends on how far the removal went. Of there are block-offs for the cooler on the exhaust pipes in the rear it should not be too bad. If there has been a new pipe installed it's not going to be fun. But not impossible.
If you are getting a tremendous deal on this truck it may be worth it to do a re-install. Get a picture of the pipe the horizontal cooler attaches to; that will let you know if the pipe was removed or if a blocking plate was used. If the pipe was removed it was probably done by cutting it off. You will also have to replace all the coolant hoses and the EGR valve and housing. This will not be a "just a few hours" job. There are also other considerations for resetting the orginal tune once all the emission stuff is back on.
Keep us posted.
The coolers are not cut. The pipe I'm talking about is where the horizontal cooler (top one in your picture) mounts. At the firewall end should be a mating pipe for the cooler (right hand end in your picture; the cooler would be rotated so that the hose would be underneath). If all that was done was to simply put a blocking plate on that pipe, you're golden as far as an EGR re-install. Mechanically speaking.
At that, if the EGR valve is still on the truck, there would also be a blocking plate where the vertical cooler tube attaches to the valve housing.
If you do this, go online to Sinister (Sinister Diesel - Diesel Performance Products and Accessories) and download the instructions. I did not buy my replacement coolers from them, but they have the best instructions.
The pic has an arrow to the vertical EGR tube/valve housing attachment. If this has a blocking plate, it is likely the lower one has one also. Note: This is not my engine.
Okay, good luck on this project. You did not say what year this was, but to be low miles at 115K I'm guessing 2008 or 2009. My '08 had 137K.
You will need gaskets for the EGR coolers. Ford has them for around $12. The two for the vertical piece are the same, just with an A and B part number. The one at the rear of the horizontal tube is different.(Dealer will need your VIN to get the right ones) You will also need the 4 studs and nuts for the v-egr, and the 2 bolts for the h-egr. The studs use a 5mm wrench or socket to run them in. Another important note here is to make sure the brackets that the egr coolers mount to are still there; you will need 2 clamps for each (see my picture). In stock trim, the v-egr uses 3 clamps.
Go ahead and brush up on your profanity.
Depending on your EGR valve, your coolant tubing may be different that in my picture. If the valve does not have piping on it, the hose from the upper portion of the v-egr will run to the surge tank T. The other hose will not be there. Your dealer should be able to print out a schematic for you.
Also make sure the tuner is included to flash it back to stock. I don't think you can run it very long (or at all) with the current tune and the DPF reinstalled.
As far as the Egr coolers, they can be put back on but are a pain. There's a reason Ford put the EGR cooler for the 6.7 up on top the engine Check out You Tube; I know I've seen videos of the parts being taken off.
Also make sure the EGR valve, housing, and throttle body are still on or at least included with the truck. Many times these are all deleted & a simple elbow going to the intake is installed.
We can't really help you with the "worth it" decision. You have never said which model (F250, 350, cab type, SRW/DRW, etc) it is. If a F350 SRW and less than $20K I would certainly go for it. It shouldn't cost more than $1500 at the outside to get everything back on, and to have it reflashed.
I just have a problem with a dealer knowing pretty much nothing about a vehicle he is selling.
I intend to do the delete so a truck with all the stuff and the tuner is a plus, it's a a sct not the touchscreen one so I'm not sure if it can read temps$28K seems to be a good price for that mileage range here in NC for a clean, stock truck. I gave $1500 to cover any parts and pieces you may need like the brackets, EGR valve, throttle body, and reflash. That amount should be a way outside estimate. Use it for negotiating. I don't know if the previous stock tune is still good; a reflash would also incorporate any updates; check with the shop.
Crawl all over this thing when you go check it out. Get down under it and really look at any points of leakage (bottom corner of the radiator on driver side is one). If the tuner shows temps for oil and coolant, watch them close when you test drive it. The EOT should not exceed the ECT by more than 10 degrees (the oil is cooled by hot coolant, so it would never be lower than the ECT once hot). Make sure the spare tire special tool (an anti-theft adapter that goes on the end of the jack rod; you can't lower or raise the tire without it, and the dealer charges $25 for it) is in either the glove box or in the tire tool bag.
Actually, if you originally intended to do a DPF and EGR delete, then you will be ahead of the game with this truck. It won't cost as much to put stuff back on, as it did the original owner to take it off and mount the tuner.
Keep us posted.