[Smokewagun]

Can it be done without a lift? I have tried it on my 2004 and 2006, but ultimately, the sawzall comes out. I'd like to keep the stock tailpipe with the muffler intact. If I have to cut it, should I cut it on an angle so if I reinstall it and reweld it it can be "realigned" properly, or just straight cut it through? Still, I'd like to find a way to remove it in one piece. I don't have a deep enough ditch to straddle, either.

 

[InnovativeDiesel]

Without a lift, I don't think you can. Like you said, you can cut it in a place that would be easier to weld. Straight or angle shouldn't matter, as it can be tacked in place and then welded.

 

[ipkyss]

I normally do it with the truck on the ground. Remove the right rear shock and take the spare tire off. Both things take 10 mins. Then wiggle it out. Have done atleast 6 trucks this way. Only one I had problems with was and excursion, Had to jack up the rear a few inches by the trailer hitch. But they sit really low to begin with.

 

[danbob]

I took my entire stock exhaust off without cutting any pipes. Just take your time and it will come off.

 

[overfly]

Got mine off in one piece in the driveway. It was tight but if you turn and twist just right, it'll come out. No need to remove the spare but it would have made it easier.

 

[Floridayfz450]

I got it out, just removed the spare tire and twisted and turned for a while and it came off.

 

[InnovativeDiesel]

Good idea. It's been a while since I've done one off the lift, but that's great info to pass on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

[ljr869]

I had a hell of a time getting mine off. The 350 is a little higher in the rear, of course, so I can''t imagine how tough it is on a 250. I didn't have to touch the shock, did drop the spare, but it was definitely a 2 man job to pull it out. Otherwise I would have cut it.

 

[ipkyss]

I normally drop the spare. I think it was an f-250 I pulled the shock off. It seemed lower than you average f-250 though. I have always got the downpipe out in one piece too. Sense the new ones always come in 2 pieces. I normally put it in, tack weld the joints, then take it out and fully weld it. Then it never moves or leaks

 

[Smokewagun]

Well, you guys must have a magic touch. After fighting with it for 45 minutes, driving up on some ramps (which are now torched), driving up the rear passenger wheel up on nine inches of stacked 2" X 12", it still would not come out. I removed the spare and the shock. It just wouldn't go. The step tubes were also in the way, or the big a$$ 20" tire. Finally, I cut off about ten inches of the tailpipe and it slid through. I have no idea how you do it, but after studying it and twisting it for eternity, I said screw it. If, and I stress IF, I ever put it back on, I'll add a tail piece. I doubt it will ever go back on. I have done several systems on my past trucks with the same idea, but the stock systems eventually went in the trash after I sold the truck. Besides, after torquing down the clamps on the MBRP and putting a crimp in the pipes (even if the clamps fell off)the pipes will never come apart. It seemed I tightened down on the clamps forever before they snugged up enough to prevent the pipes from rotating or pulling apart. Now, I doubt I'll be able to put in a muffler delete without a sawzall. Darn. I ran the truck down the road with no pipe after the convereter. It sounded sweet - and not loud at all. After running a dual Roush Off Road system on my 2007 F-150, this MBRP sounds very tame - too tame. I wish I had gone with the muffler delete.

Anyway (as I jaw too much), thanks for the input guys. maybe next time I will be able to pull it off.

 

[ipkyss]

I think everyone wishes they did the muffler delete. Straight pipe 5" and 5" stacks sound better though... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif