[cbuttre835]

Gotta replace ball joints (finally!); do I have to take the spindle off and slide the axle half out, or can I just take the ball joint nuts off with the U-joint / axle in place and knock the knuckle down out of the axle end, with the axle shaft in place?

don't have a torch, and afraid that spindles will be a pain.

the service manual says you can loosen and separate the two balljoints for changing caster/camber adjusters, without removing spindle and axle. just wondering if it'll work...

holler....

 

[v_lombardi]

got this off my repair cd.
sorry no photos but it should help.

vince

Removal
1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and the right and left shaft and joint assembly. Refer to «Spindle, RH and LH Shaft and Joint Assembly» in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
2. Disconnect the steering linkage, if necessary, from the knuckle. Refer to «Section 11-03».
3. Remove the cotter pin from the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint (3049). Loosen the nut on the top stud and the bottom nut inside the steering knuckle. Remove the top nut.
4. Sharply hit the top stud with a plastic or rawhide hammer to free the knuckle from the axle arm. Remove and discard bottom nut. Use new nut upon assembly.
5. Note: Note the orientation of the camber adjuster to make sure of the same camber setting.
Remove camber adjuster by hand or if difficulty is encountered use Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F.
6. Place steering knuckle in vise and remove snap ring from bottom ball joint socket if so equipped.
7. Remove plug from U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and replace with Plug T80T-3010-A4 (part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A).
8. Assemble U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A2 (part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A).
9. Note: Always remove front suspension lower ball joint first.
Turn forcing screw clockwise until front suspension lower ball joint is removed from steering knuckle.
10. Repeat procedure and remove front suspension upper ball joint.

Installation
1. Clean steering knuckle bore and insert front suspension lower ball joint as straight as possible.
2. Note: If ball joint cannot be installed to the proper depth, realignment of Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A3 will be necessary.
Assemble U-Joint Tool, Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A3 (part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A) and Installing Cup from Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent as shown to replace the front suspension lower ball joint.
3. Turn forcing screw clockwise until front suspension lower ball joint is firmly seated.
4. Install the snap ring on the front suspension lower ball joint.
5. To install front suspension upper ball joint, assemble the C-Frame, Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A3 and Replacer T80T-3010-A1 (both part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A). Turn forcing screw clockwise until front suspension upper ball joint is firmly seated.
6. Assemble knuckle to axle arm assembly. Install camber adjuster on the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint with the arrow pointing outboard for positive camber, pointed inboard for negative camber.
7. Install new nut on bottom socket finger-tight. Install and tighten nut on top socket finger-tight. Tighten bottom nut to 47 N-m (35 lb-ft).
8. CAUTION: If the tightening sequence is not followed in this step and Step 9, ball joint life will be reduced.
Note: Do not loosen top nut to install cotter pin.
Tighten top nut to 136 N-m (100 lb-ft), then advance nut until castellation aligns with cotter pin hole. Install cotter pin.
9. Retighten bottom nut to 123-149 N-m (91-110 lb-ft).
10. Install the front wheel spindle and the right and left shaft and joint assembly as described in this section.

 

[Nit]

nope have to remove it, teh spindle is not that hard, you can get a slide hammer adapter to screw into teh spindle to remove it, very easy to do. after that then your set.

 

[dtenorio]

I can't answer your question, but I can tell you that new balljoints make a huge difference. My truck has 95k and the lower right BJ was sloppy so I had the dealer replace all 4 (no time to do the job myself). My steering feels like it did when it was new. It's amazing how you can get used to the slow deterioation of the steering system, not noticing how sloppy it really is. Good luck replacing them yourself, you'll save a fortune in Labor!

Dan

 

[PSDan000]

spindles have to come off...they were a PITA for me. took about an hour and a half to get one side off. i had to use an assortment of chisels and a hammer, air chisel wouldnt do it either. make sure when you put it back together you put some kind of anti seize around the back of the spindle where it connects to the knuckle. makes a big difference when you go to take it off next time. good luck!

Dan

 

[cbuttre835]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

[ QUOTE ]
nope have to remove it, teh spindle is not that hard, you can get a slide hammer adapter to screw into teh spindle to remove it, very easy to do. after that then your set.

[/ QUOTE ]

is said slide hammer adapter a Ford deal, or where does one get it?

I got the right side off, by wedging a chisel thru the knuckle ujoint, and pulling against the axle shaft /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif (after the slipjoint collapsed a little and tightened the chisel into the axle tube) with a big gear puller on the 2 locknuts.

Can't do that on the left side; axle shaft goes straight into the chunk. don't wanna bust nothing.

Gotta have this truck in a week, to go on vacation!

 

[clem]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

I used a 6# sledge, softwood 2X4 and a little PB Blaster. They were off in no time.Might do your uni-joints while you are there.

 

[swh22]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

at autozone you can do their free rental thing and get a slide hammer kit. I was able to use that with a gear puller adapter that came with the kit, put the axle nuts back on, and hooked the gear puller around them. be warned though, not all stores have this kit and most people seem to give you the dear in the headlights look.

 

[Nit]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

big threaded socket deal that jsut spins right onto teh spindle, knocked one off Friday morning in 3 mins, couple hits of teh hammer and your done. Girlfriend blew a hub adn needed a new spindle and bearing, hub too, good thing for extra D50 parts around.

 

[AggiePSD]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

2x4 and a sledge. Knock the spindle side to side and it will work off in no time.

 

[cbuttre835]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

[ QUOTE ]
2x4 and a sledge. Knock the spindle side to side and it will work off in no time.

[/ QUOTE ]

yeap

took 10 min with the sledgehammer

4# shop wasn't enough.

thanks!~~

 

[milner351]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

Hey guys, not to hijack a thread, but I'm hopefully doing a 4.10 to 3.55 swap soon, and will be getting the whole d50 front "pumpkin" to swap into my ttb front end.

I'm thinking replacing U joints during this job would be a good idea, and I'm assuming the axle shafts and therefore the spindles have to come out to replace the "pumpkin" is this correct?

 

[1996CC]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

The "pumpkin" is usually refered to as the whole center section of the differential housing, the outer casing. If you are taking about the ring gear/carrier assembly, yes, you will have to pull the axle shafts out to replace the carrier.

 

[cbuttre835]

Re: Removing axle shafts to do ball joints? UPDATE and MAYDAY!

[ QUOTE ]
Hey guys, not to hijack a thread, but I'm hopefully doing a 4.10 to 3.55 swap soon, and will be getting the whole d50 front "pumpkin" to swap into my ttb front end.

I'm thinking replacing U joints during this job would be a good idea, and I'm assuming the axle shafts and therefore the spindles have to come out to replace the "pumpkin" is this correct?

[/ QUOTE ]

yes

ideal time to do ujoints

spicer 5-178X - same as in rear driveshaft - but have grease fittings

need 3 of 'em...

I hear, too, DON'T reinstall the C-clip on the pass. side stub shaft - that way, you don't have to drop the carrier to replace that one 2nd time around. It's only in there to keep the stub shaft / axle shaft in during shipping. once spindle installed, it can't come out - slip joint will slip some but won't let it all the way out.

And it's also a good time to drill and tap the carrier housing for a drain plug.