I have an F250 power stroke 2004 and I heard that removing your muffler increases your gas mileage, replacing it with a tube. My concern is will it bring up any service engine soon lights on the truck? How would this change affect any long distance driving?
Removing Muffler - F250 Power stroke
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Joined
·
18,824 Posts
Assuming your 6.0L exhaust system was similar to my 7.3L exhaust system:
Your stock muffler is very restrictive. You won't see a noticable change in MPG, but your truck will be happier with a less restrictive muffler or straight pipe. And it will hit the limit on exhaust gas temp (EGT) later with a performance exhaust system. No problem with SES lights. The main benefit will be you can climb the mountain faster, or haul a heaver load, or climb a steeper grade without hitting the EGT red line.
But a straight pipe is not the answer for most of us. That adds an unacceptable amount of racket, noise and NVH. That's only for "look at me" juveniles. Better is to install a performance muffler or exhaust system. You'll get the same benefit of increased performance as a straight pipe, but without the NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness).
The least expensive but excellent exhaust mod is to replace the muffler with a Walker Big Truck Muffler # 21470 - also called a Dynomax Performance 21470 = Walker RV Muffler. That will give you about 90 percent of the benefits of the much more expensive complete performance exhaust systems such as a Magnaflow. You can order the 21470 muffler from any NAPA and most other big auto parts stores, or get it online from
Dynomax Performance 21470 - Walker RV Mufflers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
In addition to the muffler, you also need two 3.5" muffler clamps, available from big-truck parts stores. Auto parts stores and muffler shops don't carry anything bigger than 3" clamps.
If you provide the muffler and two 3.5" muffler clamps, any muffler shop will install it for you for about $50 to $75, or you can DIY if you can weld. Remove the muffler and the "S" pipe in front of the muffler. Turn the S pipe over 180° and reinstall it. That results in a straight shot between the S pipe and the tail pipe, and the Walker BTM requires a straight shot. Cut the hangers off the old muffler and weld them back onto the new muffler in about the same locations. The Walker BTM is a bit longer than the stock muffler, so you'll probably need to remove a little of the exhaust pipe to make the resulting space the right length for the new muffler.
Or if you want to spend more money for very little benefit, you can go with a "cat-back" exhaust system, such as a Magnaflow or MBRP. Those are available in three different materiels, so you pays your money and you takes your choice. The 409 stainless is the same stuff your stock exhaust system is made out of, so that was my preference. But you can go with the cheaper aluminized steel or the more expensive 304 chrome-looking stainless. Here's one source for the MBRP in 409 stainless:
MBRP Exhaust System S6208409 for Ford Powerstroke Diesel at DieselManor
Your stock muffler is very restrictive. You won't see a noticable change in MPG, but your truck will be happier with a less restrictive muffler or straight pipe. And it will hit the limit on exhaust gas temp (EGT) later with a performance exhaust system. No problem with SES lights. The main benefit will be you can climb the mountain faster, or haul a heaver load, or climb a steeper grade without hitting the EGT red line.
But a straight pipe is not the answer for most of us. That adds an unacceptable amount of racket, noise and NVH. That's only for "look at me" juveniles. Better is to install a performance muffler or exhaust system. You'll get the same benefit of increased performance as a straight pipe, but without the NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness).
The least expensive but excellent exhaust mod is to replace the muffler with a Walker Big Truck Muffler # 21470 - also called a Dynomax Performance 21470 = Walker RV Muffler. That will give you about 90 percent of the benefits of the much more expensive complete performance exhaust systems such as a Magnaflow. You can order the 21470 muffler from any NAPA and most other big auto parts stores, or get it online from
Dynomax Performance 21470 - Walker RV Mufflers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
In addition to the muffler, you also need two 3.5" muffler clamps, available from big-truck parts stores. Auto parts stores and muffler shops don't carry anything bigger than 3" clamps.
If you provide the muffler and two 3.5" muffler clamps, any muffler shop will install it for you for about $50 to $75, or you can DIY if you can weld. Remove the muffler and the "S" pipe in front of the muffler. Turn the S pipe over 180° and reinstall it. That results in a straight shot between the S pipe and the tail pipe, and the Walker BTM requires a straight shot. Cut the hangers off the old muffler and weld them back onto the new muffler in about the same locations. The Walker BTM is a bit longer than the stock muffler, so you'll probably need to remove a little of the exhaust pipe to make the resulting space the right length for the new muffler.
Or if you want to spend more money for very little benefit, you can go with a "cat-back" exhaust system, such as a Magnaflow or MBRP. Those are available in three different materiels, so you pays your money and you takes your choice. The 409 stainless is the same stuff your stock exhaust system is made out of, so that was my preference. But you can go with the cheaper aluminized steel or the more expensive 304 chrome-looking stainless. Here's one source for the MBRP in 409 stainless:
MBRP Exhaust System S6208409 for Ford Powerstroke Diesel at DieselManor
Joined
·
1 Posts
I love cars …… in most of my cars me just changed my band exhaust to custom exhaust
Is a great joy fixing in custom in our machines
Truck Mufflers
Is a great joy fixing in custom in our machines
Truck Mufflers
Agreeing with what SmokeyWren said. Putting on an MBRP 4" turbo-back muffler is very easy, and if you shop, you can get an aluminized system for $270 shipped ($300 shipped is the norm, but you can find deals).
If you have a helper, even with little skill but can follow directions, you can take your old one out and put the new one in within 1.5 hours. The main thing is you need a Sawzall to cut the old exhaust off. Two cuts and loosened clamp at the turbo and you got it off!
That helper's main role is to simply help you remove and install the exhaust at the turbo. So if they're up top making sure the clamp is off or on, that's their main role. Everything else you can do yourself.
If you have a helper, even with little skill but can follow directions, you can take your old one out and put the new one in within 1.5 hours. The main thing is you need a Sawzall to cut the old exhaust off. Two cuts and loosened clamp at the turbo and you got it off!
That helper's main role is to simply help you remove and install the exhaust at the turbo. So if they're up top making sure the clamp is off or on, that's their main role. Everything else you can do yourself.
Joined
·
301 Posts
don't forget about the stupid little annoying hanger arms in the rubber boots....those things are a pain in my @$$
Joined
·
18,824 Posts
Other than the change in obnoxious racket, did you notice any difference in performance with the Walker BTM?
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
