[Tjhunter]

Ok, I did the h&s dpf delete, and I was trying to do the egr cooler delete now, I have it down the pipe that you have to put the block off plate on the manifold itself, I cant get the 8mm bolts broke loose, and I am afraid of breaking the bolts off , anyone here done this yet and have a trick to get them loose, I even tried map gas on the manifold too, but with no luck yet, and they really suck to get to, who did this, and how, thanks

 

[ford_doctor]

This is one of the "gotcha" items when working on this engine. The bolts commonly break. There are methods to working tight bolts loose, heat, striking with a hammer and punch, soaking in penetrating oil, cracking them loose by first tightening.... or combinations of all approaches. If they are seized, they are going to break no matter what. It's just one of those things. The good news is that the bolts are fairly easy to access to drill out. I have removed many a broken bolt, drilled out the manifold and installed a thread repair in place. Patience sometimes if your friend here.

 

[fireengine70]

I soaked mine in Blaster the night before. The bolt was still tough to get out. I used a brass punch and a hammer and pounded on it for several good blows. After that it came out without much of a fight. Good luck and take your time.

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

Soak first, let sit, heat surrounding metal trying to keep heat off bolt, hit head, break free.
Always make sure all penetrating fluid on surrounding areas of fluid before open flame is introduce. Do not breath fumes as they are extremely toxic. Beware of flash overs and always keep a fire extinguisher close at hand so if a fire gets out of hand your 6.7 does look like the one they tested in the desert until it burned to the ground.
Some techs take these things for granted and sometimes forget to advise these precautions when somebody is asking for advise on a task like this, so I am. Do it this way and take precautions.

 

[Tjhunter]

got it done !

ok, I did the delete with the dpf and the h and s tuner, I also did the egr delete kit also, I have to say, you really need some time set aside for that one, I took my time so that I didn't break any bolts off, I will tell you some pointers that really helped me. I removed my front tire and wheel well cover (some one gave me the idea on here) and it made getting to the rear bolts on the cooler and the 10mm nut on the rear a lot easier (if easy is what you want to call it ), I removed the wiring harness from the from underneath the truck with a long screw driver. The bolts on the tube going down onto the intake was about the only thing that was a booger, I kept on spraying them with creep , and I took a long punch and hit the bolt head the next day, still couldn't get them broke loose, then I took my dewalt cordless impact driver , put it on tighten for a second, then they came right out like the weren't even tight at all, I really took a lot of time working on these, as I didn't want to snap them off, I also used the original hose from the truck to go from the bottom of the radiator to the top, worked out well and is underneath the air box so there was no need for the hose with the kit, which was to short anyhow, my truck only has 30,000 miles on it (2011) but the exhaust tubes were really full of soot, not enough to block it or anything like that, but couldn't believe how much was on the sides, kind of like in a flu of a wood burner, truck smells more like diesel now, but it sure does run a lot better, as for gas mileage, the truck gadge (both of them) say 15.4 miles to a gallon, now that is going up a steep mountain everyday, haven't had highway miles yet, but I cant seem to get my foot out of the gas either, it sure makes driving it really fun if you like taking off like a race car...lol. I will do a hand calculation when I fill up to see if they match (by the way) I was getting 10 to 11 miles before the delete, I checked my mileage every time , on the highway I was getting 14, I got a lot better fuel mileage before I put on 35 inch tires, but the mileage was getting worse every year, not sure why, got 21 on the highway when I bought it, 14 towing, then 10 towing last year , who knows, sorry for the long post, if I can help anyone out on the egr delete, send me a message and I will tell you what I know

 

[ford_doctor]

I am glad to hear that the bolts came out without breaking on you. :thumbsup:

 

[35kl199]

......

 

[ford_doctor]

HI, the bolt I have in my truck ( 2005 f250 6.0) is broken. Trying to get it out for days with no luck. The tip is sticking out at the bottom of the intake manifold, where the egr cooler connets to the intake. But it is very hard to stick my hand in there and spin it. Any other ways you can suggest? I know it is loose if I can turn it

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

First, you are posting this in the wrong section, you have a 6.0L and this is the 6.7L forum - no worries.
The bolt you are describing threads into the EGR cooler itself. You will need to remove the intake and just slide the EGR cooler out. Then deal with the broken bolt unless you are doing a delete.

 

[35kl199]

First, you are posting this in the wrong section, you have a 6.0L and this is the 6.7L forum - no worries.
The bolt you are describing threads into the EGR cooler itself. You will need to remove the intake and just slide the EGR cooler out. Then deal with the broken bolt unless you are doing a delete.

Oh sorry I didn't realize I posted in the wrong section. Thanks for the advice.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[CobraDriver]

For stuck bolts that do not respond to the normal methods, I have had better luck heating the bolt, letting it cool, and then removing it. Theory is that the heated bolt expands and pushes the metal around it away and when it cools leaves a slight gap. Also, be sure you are using a really good 6 point socket. Sometimes going from metric to SAE or vice-versa will get you a socket that fits a little better. There was a homemade fluid that I used to use that was real good, it was half automatic trans fluid and half some volatile chemical that I can't recall right now, perhaps someone else knows what it is?

Do not re-use a bolt that has been heated.

Edit: forgot the second most important part - when re-installing bolt - never-seize it!