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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We need to remove one or both valve covers on my year 2000 7.3 PSD, to check the injector wiring connections. For those who have done it, does this require removal of the intake charge air (intercooler) pipe or alternator on driver's side (which ones), or the charge air discharge pipe or AC compressor on the passenger side (which ones)? Also is the harness side of the valve cover injector connector available anywhere reasonable? Would save maybe some disassembly.
 

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You will meed to remove the boost tube on the passenger side and the fresh air intake tube and boost tube on the drivers. Don't touch the alt. or the air conditioning. Do not remove heater hoses. Just shift them out of the way. Drivers side will come right out after unbolting the wiring harness and disconnecting the CCV. Passenger side has to be moved back and forth to tease it out between hoses and brackets. But it too will come out without removing anything else. Also on the passenger side, one of the VC bolts hold the crankcase dip stick tube. Do not move this any more than necessary or you may cause a leak at the oil pan. As a precaution you may want to disconnect batteries. Hate to see you short out something.

Not sure what year truck your working on, but you may want to pick up the UVC wiring harness clips and add them if you don't have the updated harnesses.

Randy
 

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No prob. I had to do that exact job. Had a loose UVC wiring harness causing the engine to run rough. Pushed the harnesses together and added the clips to hold them together. Worked great.
BTW While you have the VC's off be sure to check all the glow plugs. Good time to replace any bad ones. Others will disagree with me and tell you to replace them all sense you have the VC's off. Not necessary in my opinion. I only had to replace 1 bad one. If you do, use Motorcraft not Autolite.
Glow plugs pt# Motorcraft ZD-11 get them from local auto parts store
UVC clips pt# from International # 1844193C91

Randy
 

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You can also remove the Oil neck from the valve cover. The first time I removed the passenger side one I didnt,,,it was very difficult to get out. The second time I learned that it unscrews from the valve cover just like the oil cap does...the cover came out from under the heater hoses and AC compressor much easier....just another idea.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good idea to add the clips, but how many are used per cover, are they used random like cable ties or per injector?
And Jim, thanks for info on fill tube...am sure that will help. Have never taken them off so all info helps. Will probably need VC gaskets, a glow plug or make sure the local store has them, the clips, and guess that is all. Really want to find the connector half so I can check continuity through the solenoid. Don't know if I have a wiring problem or if a injector is fouled. Maybe some injector cleaner just in the fuel bowl first would help. I did blow the fuse for the fuel pump which is also for the PCM, but my diagram does not show if it also is connected to the injectors, which could explain the fuse failure. Just got to get the whole manual. Again, thanks.
 

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So far every patr I've bought from International has been allllot cheaper /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif I just replaced my harness & gaskets got all of it for about $130. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
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.Good Luck!!!
 

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You won't need VC gaskets unless the connector pins are burnt. They are reusable unless you step on it and break it in two.

But just in case, here's some part #'s

Retainer (Under Valve Cover Harness clips) this is just 3 little bits of plastic that wedge under the retainer on the injector and glow plug harness. One needed per side, the third is in case you drop one down into the engine.
2C3Z-14A163-AB $9.59
Int’l 1844193C91 ~$10

Wiring Harness, Injectors & glow plugs
F81Z-9D930-AB $59.74
Int’l 1830844C93 ~$25

Gasket, Valve Cover
Int’l 1826703C1

You can check continuity thru each injector solenoid without the outside VC connector half. The center pin is common to all injectors and the next two pins (each way) to the front and back are the injector solenoid returns.

In case you really want the connector, International should have them, (sorry, don't have a part #) They are also available as a special tool through Ford (Rotunda Glow Plug Injector Adapter 014-00935).

The best thing to do is get hold of a scan tool that will do injector buzz test. That will tell you quite a bit about your injectors.

I'd try to avoid using injector cleaner. You may break loose some gunk that you don't want to and plug the injectors. A better fuel system cleaner would be to run some biodiesel thru it.
 

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WHITEWOLF

That International pt# in my last post will get you a bag of 3. You put one on each main wiring harness under the valve cover where it plugs into the valve cover gasket. One for each side. One to drop on the floor and loose ( they're very small ). You'll have to read the instructions a few times before you figure out how they go on. You have them right when they "snap" in place.

Randy
 

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One thing that was missed, is the map sensor. Remove the 3 nuts that hold it to the evaporator, unplug the harness and just lay it over on top of the motor. This makes the right intercooler tube a whole lot easier to get out.

FOMOGO
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Randy, thanks so much for info. Was out today looking and picked up a glow plug for truck, but have not been to Int'l yet. Called them but they need my engine sn, so will get that and pick up the stuff. Think I might take a look under the VC befoe buying it though. And Kevin, thanks for info on gasket...thought I would automatically need to replace since I was removing the VC. A real expensive gasket, though! The map bracket is also in the way so will get that out also. Had figured it would go when I was looking for clearance to remove the VC. Still baffles me though why the fuse went. Need to get a diagram of the PCM and fuel pump circuits to figure that one out. Again many thanks....think it might be a case of beer for all the help I'm getting. The humidity has to drop here before I can do anything on the truck outside...man is it uncomfortable. Would be nice to bring it inside the basement but would be tough on the walls. I think the PSD has the uumph to take the wall down though.
 
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