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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to the advice from the folks here, I just finished installing a Bullet Proof EGR cooler and a new Ford oil cooler - Many thanks to all of you!
Now the new problem. I was anticipating having to crank the engine repeatedly to start after the work I had did, so while I was changing out the coolers, I had both batteries disconnected and each one on a charger seperately. Got everything back together, cranked it a bit, and got the motor going. I had also changed out the main injector harness because of some worn wires (bare) to #5 cylinder. Truck ran GREAT, ran it all over town, several starts and stops, no problems. Put it in the driveway, went to start it this morning and click click click. nothing. Here's something that seems not normal - The engine was stone cold, but the passenger side battery was warm to the touch. Could there be some sort of current draw? How can I measure current draw at the battery? Maybe starter related? If I can measure current draw at the battery, then it seems like I could start unplugging fuses to see if there is one circuit bad? correct? Any advice or comments are most welcome!!! THANKS!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Borrowed a volt meter from my neighbor, checked the batteries, both completely disconnected. Driver side 11.6 vdc, passenger side (warm battery) 8.5vdc. Is there anything that would draw from the right side battery and not the left side? Maybe I damaged the battery overcharging? Thoughts/advice? I'm thinking I need to take both batteries in and have them tested. They are still under warranty at autozone - they are the gold duralast.
 

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They are absolutely connected in parallel so no, nothing of significance could be drawing off one battery only. Your on the right path, check the batteries first then move onto wiring to make sure all connections are secure, take a look at the starter. Could be a coincidence that it has a short in it or something and failed at this time. If your sure the draw isn't significant, most VOM's have a 10 amp shunt in them for testing current draw, you could test with it.
 

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Dumb question, but are both battery cables in good shape and tightened properly? Also there could be an internal fault to that battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the reply Phil. How do you check for current draw with the VOM? the one I have does have the 10a plug on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
both batteries are at the shop now getting charged and load tested. Autozone told me if they check bad, they will replace for free. Yes, did check all terminals for tightness. I've had loose terminals bite me before, so I always check that first. Good to be reminded tho...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
both batteries were toast. picked up 2 new interstates. Got the alternator off, get it checked in the morning. Then I hope gtg...
 
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