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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok I used the 3 day weekend to work on my 6.4 SRW the truck has had little done to it and the lifters are a little more noisy than I like and the final straw was the alternator on the verge of full lockup

flushed coolant with prestone 2 bottles 2 days of driving flushed till clear
started the teardown carefully removing lots of stuff and labeling and reinstalling bolts as not to loose locations ... I have heard that a 6.4 was nothing but a nightmare to work on but I must admit so far my only snag has been the fan clutch tool (separate post) and my own faulti ruined a glow plug harness learning how to get one out.... me and my sons complete truck nut so it was actually fun for me and my boys to do together

next step turbos up and off to get to the hpfp

so here are my next few questions
#1 are all the fuel lines use once?? including the main supply and return from the frame pump/filter ??
#2 where dose the egr actually block off on the exhuast side .... up by the connection at the top of the fire wall or down where it meets the horizontal cooler (near drivers toes)
#3 where is the orfice tube located
thanks
 

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Do you ever just "take a day off"?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
call me crazy but it was a blast so far!! guess ill head to the international dealer at lunch tomorrow to see about a fan hub tool
 

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Do you have a manual or are you winging it? I like digging into things too.

I've heard of folks hang the AC condenser from the hood instead of removing it to avoid opening the AC lines and having to recharge the system. Do you think this is actually doable or is it simpler to just recharge it when your done?

The expansion valve/tube I think will be located close to the evaporator. Google just found it. Remove fender splash shield and locate orifice access fitting. You need tool # 412-034 to remove the tube and also replace the o-ring. You really need a new orifice tube??

See if this link works ... link to how-to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well I have been studying the 6.4 bible :read:posted on here by one of the doctors (rock or ford) on here I have seen joediesel187 on you tube hang the condenser but in my case the filth I washed out was worth removing it

as of today I came to the sad sad truth that lifting the cab is my best bet only to reach the bolts /nuts at the pipes and I rounded the head off of one of the horizontal egr cooler bolts
that being said if your bolts aren't rusted in to bad a younger guy could contort up there and get them off but I don't mind the clout of doing a partial cab lift:thumbsup:

parts bad so far both thermostats rubber seal was missing or seriously compromised , alternator seconds from locked up, front main seal, horizontal egr cooler leaking where clamps were snapped off and rubbed on mount

so next few days in my spare time cab up just enough to get at the pipes thanks for the help along so far guys more to come
 

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O'Reilly's loans fan clutch tool kit. It has the big open end wrench and the counterhold that catches one of those holes in WP pulley.
If you are replacing WP then use an air hammer just behind one of the points on the fan clutch hex and knock it off. I do that if I'm replacing WP even though I have a few fan clutch tools that fit all the vehicles I see in shop. The Ford dealer knocked (air hammer) my fan clutch off on one of trucks when they did a bedplate reseal under warr. I wasn't happy but the WP is doing fine more than a 100K miles later.
On re-install I use a smidge of anti-seize and then run the fan clutch down and snug it with the big OE wrench. Once fan clutch engages it will be as tight as it ever needs to be. I have removed fan clutches later after I did that and they were TIGHT.
 

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Like to know how much you have to lift the cab. Heard its just a few inches needed but I got big hands. 4 floor jacks? Forklift? Learning from your hard work. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well boys at my oldest sons advice we were able to get all but 3 of the bolts out of the pipes to turbo flange and one more of those has stripped off ..... so I am literally 3 bolts!!! from not having to remove the cab now keep in mind my truck spent some time in the Minnesota winter so my bolts are extra baked in

I did use some KB88 and PB no such luck
I have tried one of those nifty little "grabber" style sockets on the rounded 2 it worked once

so I have now removed all the cab bolts laid all the brake lines /harnesses on either the body or cab zip ties and plastic bags to protect all the connectors and a/c system

as for the height it dose look like only a foot would be enough to get at the last 2 lowest bolts where the turbo flanges meet the pipes.... leaving the one stripped off one witch I will likely drill out completely and use a new nut bolt
instead

still don't know where the block off plate goes and up high or down low after a little pipe with a sensor near cooler/up pipe flange??????

we do have a forklift but looks like I will use jacks and cribbing (wood) blocks being in the construction industry u see dumpster loads wasted so its all free for that

3 BOLTS I CANT BELIVE IT !!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what about that cavitation???? I really don't think its bad enough to pull the front cover unless the cover has to come off for this new oil pump I got and by the looks of it just the balancer has to come off thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #11
partial cab lift a success !
left the rear two bolts in just a few threads used 4x4 treated post cut to 20 inches long on the front cab lift spots
cut two more blocks 4x4x4 cube lifted the cab very slowly and gently until I could slide the blocks in where the mount is let down ....(basically like the silly old school body lifts )
had plenty of room to crack the last two flange bolts
the rounded off one still giving me busted knuckles so I put on a 18tpi metal blade and just cut the up pipe guess there is one more item to add to the list!!

hardest part so far has been the rounded off bolt and LIFTING OUT THE TURBOS man its a killer to get it up off the mounts and be easy not to snap off anything on the way out!!!

any of you guys who are intending to do this and were worried it may be to hard SO FAR I have been out zero labor cost and learned a great deal

next up out with the hpfp in with new on to the new rockers and bridges

????can someone tell me if the lifters "lift out" or is that a head removal??? I am hopeing the are serviceable with the valve covers off???

ill post the cab lift pic tomorrow
thanks guys later mike
 

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Discussion Starter #12
pics of cab lift.....turbos off .... before hpfp removal
 

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Lookin good! Keep posting pics of your progress.
 

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Just to be clear ... your cab is up in the front and setting on rear mounts with bolts loosened. Correct? Just a 4" block setting on top of front mount, backed with a 20" 4x4 post from floor to lift point on cab.

Doesn't seem like you needed much cab lift to create the room needed to access the up pipe bolts.

Also, your headlights are still on. I thought you had to pull the headlight assemblies to lift the cab. Not sure where I got that from but prob a youtube video.

Did you use an engine hoist to pick the turbo off the engine or did you just man handle the 150lb beast out?

Should you leave the hood on the truck for this work or pull it ? Seems like it would only be in the way.


BTW ... that is one sweet garage you've got.

BTW 2 ... thanks a bunch for posting pics along with your comments !
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yes sir... the rear bolts are in a few threads to keep her from sliding off the rear mounts and now just the blocks 4x4x4 on the front and a ratchet strap holding it down to the frame for safety (I did forget to mention the bed is off of course)

this was enough lift to get the drivers side up pipe out from around the valve cover since my lower egr cooler had a rounded off bolt and could not be split from the up pipe..it came out as a whole assembly (pictured) and plenty of room to crack the 10mm bolts with a 1/4 inch break over with a grabber socket just in case and a small cheater pipe
(1/2 EMT PIPE)

as for the turbos they are really stuck on their pins had to wrap a prybar in rags slip between the drivers side valvecover and gently pry up while rocking it around (still sore from lifting it up by hand) wife helped steady it on the way down off the bumper

as for the head lights they can stay no prob.... the hood would be easier to remove if you are taller (I used it to hang a work light)

custom built my house with 12 ft top to bottom and a garage door a extra section tall to get the F450 in there (until my new Camaro came along)
thanks about my toys in garage the old truck is a 1937 gmc t16 dually doing a concourse restoration 99% accurate lots of time and even more $$$

once my fingers rest a bit im out to get the hpfp out then take a look at these rocker assy and get injectors tested .....

almost to the half way mark!!!! thanks guys ill keep posting pics as we go!!!
had to put the Mustang in storage till truck is done !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hpfp out no problem .....

manifold to up pipes problem.... the studs broke off on the drivers side so I had to remove the manifolds from head

pass. side with the heat shield rounded off 5 out of 8 studs/bolts had to grind off even with manifold and slip manifold off cut off bolts with up pipe connected removed still connected together

used baby pipe wrench to remove cut off studs from head ..... I was NOT planning on replacing the headers or the up pipes but the Minnesota rust has changed my mind
newest added to the parts list
MANIFOLD LEFT AND RIGHT (same part number just flipped direction)
UP PIPES BOTH SIDES
STAINLESS BOLTS
A/C COMPRESSOR (insane to get to later and its already out)

now after I round up a few parts I wasn't planning on replacing I can start to go back together

BTW.... if your trucks DO NOT have the rust issues mine did a lot of what I have done would not be needed to replace the parts I was originally planning to do

considering the dorman manifolds as they come with all the gaskets and hardware
 

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Not sure I'd try to rescue the stock 6.4 manifolds. I've heard too much about flow improvements with the 6.0 manifolds or the after market exh manifolds.

Here is a nice pic of the 6.0 manifolds posted over on the PSA site (notice no EGR cooler) ...




Those turbo bolts to up pipes look like a bear to get at. Which bolts were the most difficult for you to reach ... disregard rust and crud ?

Oh yeah ... if you had an engine hoist lifting the turbo ... do you think the turbo would have popped off any easier?


Thanks dude!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
the manifolds are slightly diff than those pictured on that 6.0
the hardest to get to are the two lowest or most to the center out of six in the upper flanges
also if you want to remove those up pipes without lifting the cab I cant see it happening without splitting the header /manifold form the pipe

basically in my opinion if you can break those 6 at the top and your up pipes are good just let them wiggle at their bellows joint and don't go deeper

YES you could use a lift with some sort of bracket but as long as to break it loose by hand as not to damage the supply/ return IMOP

YES the factory manifold was beyond re install quality after the rust and
tomorrow ill check on the new ford $ vs the dorman PN# 674-970$
and dorman makes a up pipe both sides in fact
PN #679-008 & 679-009 but I really don't know about them yet I haven't heard any thing good or bad so I will probably go with ford all the way around

on the other hand there are some real nice stainless headers and up pipes out there but to what end !!
I figure the ford stuff went 4ish years in the salt so they should go far longer down here and well taken care off

also the egr cooler brackets go bye bye so the manifolds wont hold dirt next to them once removed 10 to 12 lbs in brackets on that alone

the dpf is out along with the muff back ready for the new ... looked at the rockers but have not removed the tips are gone but every single plastic clip is still in its place!!

more to come in a few days ill be driving 100+ each way to the current jobsite so got to make that money!!!! later buds
mike
 

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Discussion Starter #20
sweet fatboy I like ....the 6.0 manifold makes the turn instead of being a flange ...
I think I am going with the ford 6.4 stuff and stainless bolts / studs
I looked at a brand new ford manifold first thing this morn at the dist. warehouse but they didn't have any up pipes till tomorrow after the truck gets in

however the orielly where a relative works will have a complete dorman set up in the morn to look at just to see if the manifolds are of same or lower quality so??

I am leaning toward the ford stuff

talked to a few (3) diesel/turbo shops around the city here about my turbos and the price for ranges from $1800 to 2100 for a stock replacement AND HERE IS WHERE I WOULD LIKE SOME ADVICE

I got 3 different stories

#1 191k too many miles to re use... " they don't make parts for these just a new reman "
#2 guy says seen them go at 30k and seen them go at 300k bring it in he will visual for free they are non serviceable
#3 the most helpful one said there were parts avalible but not many from borg warner
but they have to be sent out to get repaired?????

all this being said I am not the type to remove a part that is past its life and ever put it back to save a buck if I know it needs it
BUT I don't like to throw money in the ditch just for fun(I got employees who do that for me)

I may be wrong but there cant possibly be a secret place where these turbos go off to get rebuilt by some borg warner fairy lol

what of these batmowheel impellers wouldn't that be a serviceable part?? forgive my ignorance on this but what elese is in there but some specific bearings and maybe a seal /o-ring , cool looking impellers and special torque procedure????

well the parts round up continues later
mike
 
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