yep those guys have some good vids... in my search I have found a rebuild kit on e bay from Midwestdiesel made in Canada claims to be high quality and to beware cheap china knockoffs!! 239$ contemplating it right now!
BTW went with the dorman headers and up pipes they come with all mounting kit and hardware vs ford is piece by piece even the heat shield is a diff. PN#
ill post pics of the quality of these dorman parts when the camera gets home
guess we will see if I they hold up to the same standards
the manifolds actually look/ feel a bit tougher than the stock
UPDATE ON MANIFOLDS after thinking it over I returned the whole dorman setup and used the coin to buy just the ford manifolds and the stud kits /gaskets
I kept having nightmares of one of them cracking and all my work on that wasted
BTW if you are removing your egr cooler mounts and were concerned about heat the same heat shield for the pass, side fits on to the drivers side you will need 3 studs instead of bolts
exhaust manifold 83CZ-9430-A same for both sides
manifold bolt -W302675-
stud for heat shield -W302647-
nut to up pipe -W302494-
yes nick I was hoping a 6.4 guy could tell me if the fuel lines pictured with blue tape on the ends are use once or not I do understand all the other lines are use once...... but not certain where it ends......
that being said those lines in question do have a quick connect down by the dipstick tube to block area..... from there the line goes back to the frame pump/filter
I'd grab a compressor from RockAuto and I think the supply/return fuel lines simply get flushed. I don't see any fuel lines with painters tape in your pics and am guessing that your referring to these lines.
got the injectors out labeled bagged and sent out for testing
rockers out and there are some worn tips some worse than others here are a few of the bad ones from the drivers side
pushrods straight and smooth ended very little sign of wear
bridges have small wear spots on each
got the new rockers/bridges and rods here ready to go in
NOW HERE COMES A QUESTION
reading the 6.4 bible there is a torque procedure on there for rockers
says to put crank dowel at 10:30 for proper compression/exhaust stroke for those cyl. to tighten down rocker mounts then rotate to 10:30 for other cyl.
is this necessary since I rotated my dowel to 12:00 BEFORE I removed ANY parts in the rocker assemblies!!
and have NOT moved the crank whatsoever
I wanted a more def awnser than my own before I bolt these new rockers down
i belive the new seal has the wear ring made on it.... the old seal did not look the same at all this seal is a 2 part deal the middle green part spins on the crank shaft while the actual seal is pressed into the pump....
so nick could you read that torque procedure in the 6.4 bible and see if it make sense to you to explain to me in a easier way for my electrican brain to soak in so i don't fubar some new pretty parts
Ok sparky, that's easy. Put that locating pin at 10 o'clock or what ever position they said.
Now what you are doing is finding out which one of those cylinder they told you to check is on a firing position and not the cam lobe ready to roll over again lifting a valve. The can't tell which cylinder that s because that dowel pin in crank can be in that position with the cam being in two different stages.
So just get it to that position and then drop the push rods in the cylinders they want you to.
The cylinder that has the level height pushrods that should be top dead center on the compression stroke . This is the cylinder they want torqued.
Now what else is confusing you is that you do not have to repeat this on all eight cylinders BECAUSE once you have identified which of those two cylinders with that dowl in that position and you have torqued it they are guiding you to the next cylinders that are ready to be torqued with the crank in that position.
Just read what I wrote twice in succession and then read their instructions and it will click I think.