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Check youtube for rebuild videos. Then I would email or call the techs making the videos for options/advice. JoeDiesel, Srmastertech, DieselTechRon ...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
yep those guys have some good vids... in my search I have found a rebuild kit on e bay from Midwestdiesel made in Canada claims to be high quality and to beware cheap china knockoffs!! 239$ contemplating it right now!

BTW went with the dorman headers and up pipes they come with all mounting kit and hardware vs ford is piece by piece even the heat shield is a diff. PN#
ill post pics of the quality of these dorman parts when the camera gets home

guess we will see if I they hold up to the same standards

the manifolds actually look/ feel a bit tougher than the stock
 

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Discussion Starter #24
UPDATE ON MANIFOLDS after thinking it over I returned the whole dorman setup and used the coin to buy just the ford manifolds and the stud kits /gaskets

I kept having nightmares of one of them cracking and all my work on that wasted

BTW if you are removing your egr cooler mounts and were concerned about heat the same heat shield for the pass, side fits on to the drivers side you will need 3 studs instead of bolts
exhaust manifold 83CZ-9430-A same for both sides
manifold bolt -W302675-
stud for heat shield -W302647-
nut to up pipe -W302494-

next toy money goes to the up pipes and gaskets

hope this helps out guys more to come later mike
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
while waiting for some manifold gaskets and the $$$ for the hpfp I GOT THE NEW PART FEVER!! so I decided to install the new oil pump, water pump, and PS pump

waiting on the front seal install tool from OTC to get here for the front seal install!!

currently researching a A/C compressor choices are motorcraft "reman" I assume
or a murray new or murray reman any suggestions or input thanks guys

mike
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
yes nick I was hoping a 6.4 guy could tell me if the fuel lines pictured with blue tape on the ends are use once or not I do understand all the other lines are use once...... but not certain where it ends......

that being said those lines in question do have a quick connect down by the dipstick tube to block area..... from there the line goes back to the frame pump/filter

may have to add those to the list also!!
 

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I'd grab a compressor from RockAuto and I think the supply/return fuel lines simply get flushed. I don't see any fuel lines with painters tape in your pics and am guessing that your referring to these lines.
 

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Powder coat :jester:
 

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Looking great! thats quite a job youre undertaking!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
pictures of manifold and heat shield

the same heat sheild used on pass side will replace the horizontal egr cooler mount
 

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Discussion Starter #32
got the injectors out labeled bagged and sent out for testing

rockers out and there are some worn tips some worse than others here are a few of the bad ones from the drivers side
pushrods straight and smooth ended very little sign of wear
bridges have small wear spots on each

got the new rockers/bridges and rods here ready to go in

NOW HERE COMES A QUESTION
reading the 6.4 bible there is a torque procedure on there for rockers
says to put crank dowel at 10:30 for proper compression/exhaust stroke for those cyl. to tighten down rocker mounts then rotate to 10:30 for other cyl.

is this necessary since I rotated my dowel to 12:00 BEFORE I removed ANY parts in the rocker assemblies!!
and have NOT moved the crank whatsoever

I wanted a more def awnser than my own before I bolt these new rockers down
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
SWEET I just got my OTC pn#303-1259 front seal install tool $180
and my new front seal #8C3Z-6700-B install and pics soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
here is the install of seal ... the plastic ring is for installation only.. it keeps the correct depth for the center section
 

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Discussion Starter #35
ready to bolt in rockers but need some info

ok I had hoped someone who had done rockers on a 6.4 would chime in about the bolt down process but guess no.....

so any harm in running the two bolts that hold the rocker assy. nice and slow ?? or is totally necessary to rotate the crankshaft as you tighten the assy. up???

surely I cant be the only one on here who has done their own rockers/bridges

thanks to any ford tech who could chime in on this

NEW push rods, rockers and bridges ready to go in!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
i belive the new seal has the wear ring made on it.... the old seal did not look the same at all this seal is a 2 part deal the middle green part spins on the crank shaft while the actual seal is pressed into the pump....

so nick could you read that torque procedure in the 6.4 bible and see if it make sense to you to explain to me in a easier way for my electrican brain to soak in so i don't fubar some new pretty parts
 

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Ok sparky, that's easy. Put that locating pin at 10 o'clock or what ever position they said.
Now what you are doing is finding out which one of those cylinder they told you to check is on a firing position and not the cam lobe ready to roll over again lifting a valve. The can't tell which cylinder that s because that dowel pin in crank can be in that position with the cam being in two different stages.
So just get it to that position and then drop the push rods in the cylinders they want you to.
The cylinder that has the level height pushrods that should be top dead center on the compression stroke . This is the cylinder they want torqued.
Now what else is confusing you is that you do not have to repeat this on all eight cylinders BECAUSE once you have identified which of those two cylinders with that dowl in that position and you have torqued it they are guiding you to the next cylinders that are ready to be torqued with the crank in that position.
Just read what I wrote twice in succession and then read their instructions and it will click I think.
 
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