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Ok,
They are saying put the dowl here.
Now drop the push rods into these cylinders
Mr. Owner if you have the dowl in this position one of these two cylinders is going to be at top dead center on the compression stroke.
Mr. Owner we can't tell you which because if you rotate that crank 360 degrees the dowl will be in that position and now the other cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke.
So you determin which of these two cylinders' push rods are of equal height indicating no valve lift and with that dowl in that position THAT cylinder is in the top dead center position on the compression stroke.
Now we have identified that cylinder as X torque and go strait over to cylinders T, N , Z torquing them.
Substitute my letters for the numbers they supply.
Once they have been torqued they direct you to the others.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
yes sir that's what i was thrown by is 8 cylinders equals 8 or at least 4 positions of the crank in my mind.....

so 2 cylinders on drivers side and 2 cylinders on pass side for each 10:30 setting of the dowel equals 8 sets

and to clear up... with new pushrods in i am looking for the 2 sets that is at equal length
as opposed to the two sets that are one long and one short? correct

thanks nick i want to be certain before i toast anything over not asking

BTW check my turbo thread and see what you think about ROTOMASTER brand stuff im fixin to drop coin on turbos just aren't 100% certain where yet
 

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No, you put the dowl in the position they want.
Then they tell you which two cylinders to put push rods in.
Once they are in you look at their height.
One cylinder will have both rods at the same height. The other cylinder will have push rods sticking out with uneven heights.
You identify the cylinder number for the cylinder with push rods sticking up at equal height.
You take that cylinder number and match it with the pairs they list and just torque all of them.
They then direct you to the next set.
Any better?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
got it thanks nick .... here i go will post new pics soon
 

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Discussion Starter #47
before i actually do it i will review all this a few more times just to be certian
 

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I just started following this thread. I am impressed.

I use AllDataDIY and curiosity made me check their procedure and it is pretty much the same as posted above. I have printed it in PDF and attached if it helps.

Good Luck,
OJ
 

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Discussion Starter #50
thanks OJ I like all the info I can get I am no professional mechanic but have never let anyone work on my stuff unless I was totally lost

for certain I will be the only one to blame if it goes wrong

NOW on to the bridges they are shaped different on the bottom side where they sit on top of the valves
BUT the were not all sitting in one direction the were random I tried to make a note of witch ones were facing witch way and it came out totally random

so hopefully I will get that cleared up next ...... if not being OCD I will set all in a pattern
THANKS TO THE GUYS ON HERE WHO HAVE HELPED ME SO FAR
 

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Would love to see a post mortem when your done:

- tools that make it easier
- how to jack the cab
- how to lift off the turbo
- mistakes that can be avoided
- things you wish you knew when starting out
- where you sourced parts
- what docs to read first

Passing along any and all advice would be awesome. Naturally, we can read the thread but its different when you take time to mull it over and sort things out for folks. Did you have to pull the bed to jack the cab? Would it have been better to pull the hood to use an engine lift to lift off the turbo? Could you have fabricated a tool to reach those bolts by the firewall any easier? Did you use a cordless impact wrench? What order would you follow to tear it down? I can go on and on ... but its simply easier to list it out. Got a final parts list?

So ... hoping you'll think about it once your finished up, getting bored and looking for something to do. It would be appreciated for sure.

-FB
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
you got it fatboy.... I was thinking the same my self..... I do have a complete parts list here and I sure will do a run down of the things I forgot to mention as well a recap
and a specialty tool list

since this is one of my many toy trucks my toy money is low at the moment so a break in parts flow is currently slowing me up! almost have enough for that brand new HPFP nd lines !!! then on to the turbos looks like the A1 CARDONE with aftermarket wheels will be the route I go

and don't worry guys this site has become my second home so much good info to soak in!!! BTW (wife hates it):wink2: I will keep posting
ANYONE ON HERE IS WELCOME TO ASK A QUESTION OF ME about what I have done so far I am glad to help and ifi don't know I wont BS anyone

UP NEXT ROCKERS !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
here is a pic of that bridge see how one end is oblong ?? this is what I was wanting to clear up

are they not directional??? they were in a random order no rhyme or reason
 

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I looked up the CARDONE turbos and they look to be complete remanufactured Ford turbos. So, why the after market wheels? Would you not have to crack em open and reseal? Also, you seem to be sticking to OEM parts till these wheels. Ok, not so much a question as an observation. -FB
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
well you got me on that one they look cool .... and yes the large retainer ring I would have to split there... the wheel just slips off and I wouldn't have to go any deeper than that on the new/cardone stuff

its been a blast so far I must admit I usually cant keep from tearing everything I own apart at some time and going a little part crazy (will not touch my new Camaro ever btw)

I will check with the parts guy I deal with at the dealers distribution center and see how bad it hurts for ford/ motorcraft before I part ways with money

back to that silly bridge ??
 

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Man.... I'm not in the habit of helping Chevy owners but this is new information to me. I like ya anyway.
It is a good idea to label physically or mentally everything's home, especially with moving parts that have worn themselves in.
If I were to make an educated guess it's going to be the valve side as the angles on the valve side are usually steeper. That is not something to go by. Find an absolute answer!! If you can not assemble one both ways, have someone rotate crank very slowly watch and compare angles. I think it will be clear but maybe not. I no what they were doing and trying to achieve in their directions.( not using any of the torque value to compress a valve spring and look at your part and know why it's like that but never had it in my hand to know which end went where.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
no nick I got this one with about 160k it did have NGK glow plugs surely these aren't factory and look back at my rockers tips my god they couldn't be the second set could they??
 
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