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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Be gentle, this is my first post.
I bought a 2001 F350 7.3 Super Duty a few months back. It replaced a 2000 F250 7.3 Super Duty that was totaled in an accident. That truck saved my life. I missed it so much I bought another one.
I'm in the process of tweaking it to my likes. 140k miles, auto and came with a 💩 load of updated options. My complaint or concern is the ride height of the REAR end of my truck. It has the camper special option and 6830 lbs. rear axle rating and 5200 lbs. on the front. I'd like to lower it a little if possible if it's not too much trouble.
I'm replacing all the steering arms, ball joints and differential seals and thinking of adding a 1.5 inch lift to level it some but I think that the ride height on the rear end will not be to my liking?
Any Ideas????
 

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I'm replacing all the steering arms, ball joints and differential seals and thinking of adding a 1.5 inch lift to level it some but I think that the ride height on the rear end will not be to my liking?
Any Ideas????
I’m assuming you’re referring to the “rake” with the rear of the truck sitting higher so that when cargo or tongue weight is added it doesn’t squat too low and shooting headlight beams up at oncoming traffic?

I have the ‘02 F350 4WD CC long bed. When I decided to install air bags on my truck DENNY reached out to me and let me know that the blocks could be removed from the rear springs, lowering the rear to where the truck sits close to level, and the air bags would then be used to maintain ride height when loaded.
At least that’s what I remember DENNY telling me how he has his truck set up.

I haven’t done it, but it makes sense. I’ll let DENNY go into more detail in explaining it if it’s an option you’re interested in. And....... Welcome to the forum
 

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Big Horn has a good memory. So I have had 3 F350 CC 4x4 trucks. 2 SRW and 1 DRW. On the two SRW trucks I swapped out the rear blocks for F250 blocks/shocks and sway arm links. On my latest truck the F350 DRW I took the blocks out completely and used the F250 sway bar links/shocks, it lowered the open tailgate hight by 5 inches!!! Great for loading and unloading the bed. With no load the DRW sits almost perfectly level. The SRW trucks still had a bit of rake. All trucks received rear air bags with fill ports in the top license plate holes. I usually run 5 psi when empty and 30-35 psi with a 12,000 lb 5 th wheel. The biggest advantage for me of doing airbags is you can adjust for load and your headlights are always correct no more blinding drivers when you add a load. As far as being legal/proper Ford came out with a service bulletin back with the 99 year trucks to remove the block completely, TSB 98-17-2 second TSB 99-14-05 use the F250 blocks due to some driveline vibration issues with a heavy load. The air bags solve the pinion angle/driveline issue when loaded. I have never needed to sim the driveshaft, a non CC truck may differ. Interesting side note my SRW trucks had overload springs and the DRW did not (bags fit on both). Having done it both ways I would definitely do the full block delete. Makes truck that much nicer for entry/exit. DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’m assuming you’re referring to the “rake” with the rear of the truck sitting higher so that when cargo or tongue weight is added it doesn’t squat too low and shooting headlight beams up at oncoming traffic?

I have the ‘02 F350 4WD CC long bed. When I decided to install air bags on my truck DENNY reached out to me and let me know that the blocks could be removed from the rear springs, lowering the rear to where the truck sits close to level, and the air bags would then be used to maintain ride height when loaded.
At least that’s what I remember DENNY telling me how he has his truck set up.

I haven’t done it, but it makes sense. I’ll let DENNY go into more detail in explaining it if it’s an option you’re interested in. And....... Welcome to the forum
Thanks, I appreciate it. Cary
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Big Horn has a good memory. So I have had 3 F350 CC 4x4 trucks. 2 SRW and 1 DRW. On the two SRW trucks I swapped out the rear blocks for F250 blocks/shocks and sway arm links. On my latest truck the F350 DRW I took the blocks out completely and used the F250 sway bar links/shocks, it lowered the open tailgate hight by 5 inches!!! Great for loading and unloading the bed. With no load the DRW sits almost perfectly level. The SRW trucks still had a bit of rake. All trucks received rear air bags with fill ports in the top license plate holes. I usually run 5 psi when empty and 30-35 psi with a 12,000 lb 5 th wheel. The biggest advantage for me of doing airbags is you can adjust for load and your headlights are always correct no more blinding drivers when you add a load. As far as being legal/proper Ford came out with a service bulletin back with the 99 year trucks to remove the block completely, TSB 98-17-2 second TSB 99-14-05 use the F250 blocks due to some driveline vibration issues with a heavy load. The air bags solve the pinion angle/driveline issue when loaded. I have never needed to sim the driveshaft, a non CC truck may differ. Interesting side note my SRW trucks had overload springs and the DRW did not (bags fit on both). Having done it both ways I would definitely do the full block delete. Makes truck that much nicer for entry/exit. DENNY
Thanks, so being on the slow/cautious side...either replace my F350 blocks to F250 blocks and used the F250 sway bar links/shocks is one way to go? But you prefer to do a complete removal of the block, what goes between the axle housing and the springs or is there a plate in place already and just use the original U bolts ? Maybe a dumb question on my part?
 

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As DENNY mentioned, configuration of your truck may make a difference. I see in your profile picture that your previous (wrecked) truck was a CC. Is your new to you truck a crew cab and or DRW?
When you get time set up your signature about your truck, year, model, A/T or Manual, etc. as it will help those who respond to questions about your truck. 👍
 
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I always picked up new U-bolts for the change out. Having gone all the way this last time that is what I would recommend. If you don't like it you can always add blocks back in. No real right or wrong. I think the key to avoiding driveline issues is the air bags. Springs just set on the axle no need for anything else. Denny
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As DENNY mentioned, configuration of your truck may make a difference. I see in your profile picture that your previous (wrecked) truck was a CC. Is your new to you truck a crew cab and or DRW?
When you get time set up your signature about your truck, year, model, A/T or Manual, etc. as it will help those who respond to questions about your truck. 👍
Sorry that it took a while to get back to you. I did update my truck profile and there's more info on it in the "about Me" I believe? I appreciate all of your help and suggestions. I just got my truck back from a complete steering replacement, front brakes, ball joints and differential oil seals.
I put a picture of my 2001 truck in place of the 2000 that I was in the accident with. You can get an idea about the rake of my truck. So, I think that I'm first going to try a 1 1/2 inch leveling kit on the front and see where it ends up. Any idea how much lift that a 1 1/2 inch leveling kit gives you? A true 1 1/2 inches or is there a plus minus? If it's not to my liking I might try the F250 blocks and sway arm links. If acceptable I'll order my 5100 Bilstein shocks and be on the downside of all the upgrades, minus some steps that sit a little lower. Old age is setting in. LOL
 

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If old age is setting in raising the front is going to only make the step up worse. I live with my 90 year old father in law. we take the lowered F350 DRW because it is so nice to get in and out of. Just drop the back down all the way first, the cost is nothing. You can always go back up if you want to spend money. DENNY
 
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I also eliminated my blocks on a F250 CC, but I added 2 additional leafs in the stack on each side and had to play around with pinion angles with shims. I have a very slight rake when empty and have overloaded the truck with gravel and had no issues. You may want to get a salvage yard set of replacement springs all around if you want to improve the harsh ride. Research spring codes to find which ones to get.
 
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