[JIMMY_HALL]

2001 f350 4X4. I have noticed the truck feeling like and sounding like I am traveling on interstate 40 in Arkansas (for those of you who have never been there, concrete with expansion grooves cut every 10 feet or so, makes for a aggravating, noisy, rough ride). This noise not there all the time so I figured it to just be the pavement. I got to work today and had the time so I jacked the front end up (drivers side) and the wheel is solid, no movement no slack. Wheel turns freely with no noise. I jacked the passenger side up, could grab the bottom of the tire, and pull out while pushing in on the top and got BIG movement. At least 1/2" play. While looking underneath and moving tire I could see the yoke coming out of the front diff move up and down. The seal (or what looks like the seal) moves and comes out on the drive shaft. There is no visible oil coming out. Which bearing is bad and how hard will it be to change?

 

[gregrob]

Most like the wheel bearing assembly, not hard to change but pricey. About ~300.

Might look into axle bearings too.

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

I'm getting ready to go on vacation in a couple of weeks to Orlando, Fl. from Nashville Tn. with the wife and 3 kids. Is there anything else I need to check? I would hate to brake down and have the wife say "I told you we should have brought MY car"!

 

[sdgreen]

Before you buy parts I would make sure it's not the ball joints.

I have had to replace ball joints on both sides of my truck, but not the hubs. Knock on wood lol.

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

Well at first I thought that might be the problem but when I got underneath the truck and was able to move the wheel the only thing that was moving was where the drive shaft comes out of front diff. The U-joints looked ok but the shaft was moving so much that the seal or part of it slid up the drive shaft toward the U-joints and hub. I took the tire off and was able to watch from on top. Hub doesn't seem to be the problem, which scares me, how hard is it to replace this bearing?

 

[BeeBop]

I'm in the same exact boat as you are except mine being the drivers side. I got my parts from this sites online store for 331 shipped.

 

[Mad Max]

Do not drive the truck any more or you will be buying a new brake rotor due to the failed bearing hub. I caught mine just in time and only had a small grove in my rotor.

I decided to go with the Dinatrac system that coverts the bearing hub to to old style Dana 60. Tires 35 inch and over tend to eat the OEM bearing hubs and the Diantrac with handle up to 40 inch tires.

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

I plan on changing it ASAP. I have never attempted taking off a 4X4 hub, is this going to be a all day event with hundreds of parts or pretty streight forward? Any links on this site with pics and step by step procedures or should I go ahead and buy a Chiltons Manuel?

 

[knapp]

You have just found the BIGGEST engineering fault that I know in the F series. I have done a lot of research on this problem and we are locked into it. I have changed out two units[two vehicles] on the right hand side and have heard of many more.Your price over there is cheap. We pay approx $600.00 AU over here. I have placed Moreys[lucas] additive in my hubs via the ABS sensor hole. The bearing cage is a polymire Read Plastic. When this fails all the rollers can gravitate to one side of the bearing. Not a big job to change out.
1. Remove wheel and safely support the axle. 2. Remove circlip from outer and remove 4x4 assembly.3. Remove circlip on drive shaft outer and washers.Note sequense of washers. 4Remove brake caliper assembly and support it out of the way. 5.Remove brake disc.6 Remove ABS sensor. 7.Locate 4 attatment nuts inside uni joint housing 21mm from memory.remove these nuts and leaver/bump the bearing assembly from the knuckle housing. Reverse to reasemble. Take note of yellow Oring and replace same.Check hub/axle needle roller bearing.
Regards
Ron

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

Wow thanks, sounds simple enough. When asking for parts what do I ask for, I hate going into a parts store trying to explain to the guy behind the counter what I need and having him look at me as if to say, "You dont know what parts you need but your going to attempt to work on this yourself?"

 

[Jimmy3336]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354091this sould help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[sdgreen]

With the right tools this job can be done in a half hour if you can believe that.

Knapp laid it out nicely if not get a book.

 

[vspec1]

I just went ahead and changed both sides. Easy to do. How I found out I had a problem is my ABS light came on. I pulled the wheel off and took the ABS sensor out (RT front wheel) and it was chewed up. After further inspection you could see grease comming out of the hub. Wheel bearing was toast. I pulled off the other side and you could see grease just starting to come out, so I replaced them both. They come with new ABS sensors, so that was good. Good luck !!!! Like I said very easy to do...

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

Well that explains alot then, last week I posted a question on Why is my ABS light on. It has been on for a couple of weeks, does that mean my bearing has been out that long?

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

BeeBop where did you say you got your parts? I am just wandering if it would be cheaper to order them or go to my neighborhood parts store. This is the first thing I have had to buy or replace on my truck.

 

[BeeBop]

Hi Jimmy
Here is where I got mine. I don't think you'll beat their price either. Just have your vin # handy.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214083

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

Thanks everyone, on to my next question which I will post seperatly

 

[OldmanII]

Are the F450 and F550 4x4 trucks affected by this problem also?

 

[JIMMY_HALL]

[ QUOTE ]
Hi Jimmy
Here is where I got mine. I don't think you'll beat their price either. Just have your vin # handy.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214083

[/ QUOTE ]

beebop I know you sent this to me and I was able to go to the site last night and see the kit you got for 331.00 I could even see the parts list and part numbers along with part numbers that was not Ford, but I cant find it now and I have went to the auto parts store and they dont seem to know which bearing I need. I have jacked the truck up and shown them and they still cant find the correct part. they even called Ford and no one seems to know what part I need. can anyone help? Please!! I will quit bugging you guys soon I promise.

 

[444turbodiesel]

They have the same hub design if that's what you're asking.

As far as it being deficient, that's debatable. I replaced my pass side bearing at 140,000mi and the drivers' side is still good at 230,000mi. I don't know of any conventional, light duty bearing setups that go that long without some sort of failure (bearing, seal or both) and they're 100% maintenance free.

As long as you're using the axle within it's design limits (ie-stock or close to stock tire width/diameter) they should last a long time. If you want huge tires, you should consider a larger axle, or the Dynatrac kit (it does require maintenance though)

I used to curse these things because of the price, but after considering the time saved by not having to repack every 30-40,000mi, my time is worth more than that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif