[Big Horn]

I’m starting to put together an inventory for a water pump R&R this spring/summer. I wasn’t sure I would be up for it, but now with improved health I’m looking forward to doing it.

So far I have decided on the Airtex RT-1201 water pump due to overwhelming reviews by members on TDS forum

Also, the Motorcraft brand 190 degree thermostat (new design) with the integrated gasket.

Billet thermostat housing,

Already bought a new upper hose (around accessory belt) and installed last year, along with new electric sensor for coolant temp.

I have already bought the Chevron ELC coolant.

Now I’m looking at the remainder of hoses, and possibly new plastic fan as they get brittle with age. Rock Auto has a large assortment with Motorcraft (most expensive) and aftermarket OEM. What are their middle of the road (price) options like when it comes to quality and length of service or should I stick strictly to Motorcraft. I know a lot of you shop Rock Auto, I haven’t - so I appreciate your advice.

I looked at advanced search for write ups on R&R of fan/clutch and unfortunately the one that RT had linked to no longer exists. If my memory serves correct from past articles the fan/clutch has left handed threads doesn’t it?

Thanks everyone!

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

Glad to read that your health continues to improve👍
You can get a relatively inexpensive clutch removal tool kit from NAPA.

 

[Big Horn]

Thank you Nick

 

[John in OkieLand]

I think the PS fan is normal, CW to tighten, CCW to loosen

from what I have seen, it takes a hammer or air chisel to shock the nut loose

 

[Oneof6]

I’m starting to put together an inventory for a water pump R&R this spring/summer. I wasn’t sure I would be up for it, but now with improved health I’m looking forward to doing it.

So far I have decided on the Airtex RT-1201 water pump due to overwhelming reviews by members on TDS forum

Also, the Motorcraft brand 190 degree thermostat (new design) with the integrated gasket.

Billet thermostat housing,

Already bought a new upper hose (around accessory belt) and installed last year, along with new electric sensor for coolant temp.

I have already bought the Chevron ELC coolant.

Now I’m looking at the remainder of hoses, and possibly new plastic fan as they get brittle with age. Rock Auto has a large assortment with Motorcraft (most expensive) and aftermarket OEM. What are their middle of the road (price) options like when it comes to quality and length of service or should I stick strictly to Motorcraft. I know a lot of you shop Rock Auto, I haven’t - so I appreciate your advice.

I looked at advanced search for write ups on R&R of fan/clutch and unfortunately the one that RT had linked to no longer exists. If my memory serves correct from past articles the fan/clutch has left handed threads doesn’t it?

Thanks everyone!

Glenn

It's always good to have a plan. You are smart to make an advance plan and gather up parts.
Not long after I bought my truck new on 02 I bought an OEM Water Pump (119 bucks then) and @ 195F Thermostat from DIESELSITE. Later bought a billet upper hose connection housing from them also. Parts sat in my shop for almost 17 years before needed the spare WP at aprox 240K. OEM of that era was very good quality, probably are now as well. I will let you know in another 17 years.
It's a good time to change all the hoses, heater hoses as well, might as well have all new rubber.
My fan blade plastic is not brittle, yet. I like the idea of the upper hose going around the serpentine belt, on mine the little patch of real estate is to crowded with a coolant filter, which to me is of more consistant value than the occasional issue of pulling an upper hose end to change a belt, something I have done in a Hotel parking lot in 20 minutes, easy when system cold and you have a catch bucket.
I just don't like the brutal way of using an air chisel to loosen the clutch to pump nut. So, I made a simple tool that works better than any one can rent or buy and turns that roadblock into a 5 minute task requires just that tool to hold the pump flange and a combination wrench to fit the nut. Anyone with average strength can get the nut loose easily.
PM your UPS address and I will ship it to you.
It's a good time to change the degas bottle, they crack more often than fan blades, unless you get an aluminum degas bottle from Missamoto. I like mine, with one exception, one can't see the fluid level as well, small site glass, and if the coolant were to get contaminated with oil from a bad oil-cooler o-ring one would not see it as fast, or at all, like they would with see the through plastic drgas bottle. I sample my coolant every few months by pulling some off the top when cold and transferring it to a clear jar, and let it sit overnight. Any oil contamination. should be visible once it settles.

 

[RT]

My suggestion - get some stainless steel bolts slightly longer than the ones that hold the thermostat housing. Cut the heads off and loctite them into the pump. Then, use stainless nuts and lockwashers to secure the housing. You'll never have to worry about snapping a housing bolt again.

 

[Elksniper1]

I juts did one three days ago and despite ford manual directions my 2003 was counter clockwise to loosen.
You can take the fan shroud off and remove the fan and water pump as a unit if needed.
I’ve never had a problem with the integrated thermostat and gasket

I have had multiple problems with the seperate gasket however. And like you I generally use a new thermostat housing as well. Although you can reuse if needed.
Also DO NOT go by the 1999 ford shop manual torque specs for the water pump to block. They are very wrong and you do not want to snap the top bolts that go through the front case . Not very fun trying to drill those blind holes out. Also check your temp sending unit. As ford used a couple different styles
Gray connector (also used as oil temp sender)
And I beleive the actual “water temp” sender has a black plastic connector. Although the harnesses will fit they won’t work with the gauges. Mine pegged on hot . Juts make sure you get the matched plastic color connector from ford.
There is also a huge price differnce. Hope
It goes well

 

[bugman]

Parts are a crap shoot anymore. A friend and I replaced my water pump years ago with a new NAPA pump, 6 months later it was leaking again.

As for the thermostat housing, a billet one is the only way to go if you can afford it. I purchased a new stamped one and then picked up the thermostat hosing fix off of Ebay. This fix comes with bolts that have a larger head, but I like RT's idea of placing studs into the pump so that you don't have to worry about it. But when I did remove my thermostat housing I took a socket extension and placed it on the head of each bolt and gave each one a few good raps with a hammer. Did it help? I have no idea but none of the bolts snapped off.

 

[Big Horn]

Thank you All.

. So, I made a simple tool that works better than any one can rent or buy and turns that roadblock into a 5 minute task requires just that tool to hold the pump flange and a combination wrench to fit the nut. Anyone with average strength can get the nut loose easily.
PM your UPS address and I will ship it to you.
It's a good time to change the degas bottle, they crack more often than fan blades

Thanks Jim, I will consider a new degas bottle, especially with all the time, parts, and ELC invested in the job.

One of many blessings was I didn’t loose any upper body strength, still shooting my 80# compound bow and switching back to my longbow this year so I’m gonna do the hold pulley and turn nut by hand. Thank you for the offer on the use of the tool to hold the pulley, I’ll be in touch.

My suggestion - get some stainless steel bolts slightly longer than the ones that hold the thermostat housing. Cut the heads off and loctite them into the pump. Then, use stainless nuts and lockwashers to secure the housing. You'll never have to worry about snapping a housing bolt again.

I like that idea!

despite ford manual directions my 2003 was counter clockwise to loosen.

Also DO NOT go by the 1999 ford shop manual torque specs for the water pump to block. They are very wrong

Also check your temp sending unit. As ford used a couple different styles

Do you remember which direction your engine turns when facing the front of the truck? I watched a video that said loosen the fan/clutch by loosening the fan the same direction as it turns when running. When facing the front of my truck. IIRC mine spins to the right (clockwise), but I will recheck, which would mean loosens clockwise and tightens counter clockwise (Left)

Thanks, I remember reading a post that the ft/lbs were way off.

I ran into that last year with the temperature switch, and just installed a new one from NAPA, had been working great.


When I have everything disassembled I will also make a run to NAPA with my old serpentine belt to match up a new one and throw the old one behind the back seat as a spare. Last time I was at NAPA he said he showed a couple different sizes and I needed to know what length (inches) belt I needed.

Glenn

 

[Big Horn]

Parts are a crap shoot anymore. A friend and I replaced my water pump years ago with a new NAPA pump, 6 months later it was leaking again.

As for the thermostat housing, a billet one is the only way to go

Thanks bugman, guess I’ll stick to my plan of middle of the road (by cost) unless Motorcraft is close, or a known necessity such as our sensors (ICP, IPR, etc.)

There’s something about buying the cheapest offering that Rock Auto offers that doesn’t give me much confidence, but I also understand the “if it’s all you can afford” argument......... not bashing anyone 👍

 

[Big Horn]

I think the PS fan is normal, CW to tighten, CCW to loosen

Thanks John, do you remember which direction your engine turns (running) when facing the front of the truck? I’ll be at my pole barn later today and will double check mine.

 

[John in OkieLand]

I watched Clint Allen on YouTube turn the nut CCW to loosen it standing in front of the fan, so, that would mean that from the engine's standpoint, looking from the rear to the front, it turns CW when running.

I just went out and looked at my 7.3L and he is correct, this pix is from a 45 degree angle from hood hinge to fan

 

[John in OkieLand]

Glenn
I sample my coolant every few months by pulling some off the top when cold and transferring it to a clear jar, and let it sit overnight. Any oil contamination. should be visible once it settles.

Thank you for that suggestion, I was wondering if my 5 year old Test Strips were going to be useful?

I will do this, and then pour the sample back in the DeGas bottle the next day.

 

[Big Horn]

I watched Clint Allen on YouTube turn the nut CCW to loosen it standing in front of the fan, so, that would mean that from the engine's standpoint, looking from the rear to the front, it turns CW when running.

I just went out and looked at my 7.3L and he is correct, this pix is from a 45 degree angle from hood hinge to fan


View attachment 187809

OK, that makes sense - clutch installs (From grill) turning to the right, fan blades/engine rotates left (or right as viewed from your picture) - pulling air through the radiator across engine) and keeping fan clutch tight......which follows the logic of loosening in the same direction as it spins. Thanks John!!

 

[Big Horn]

Here’s an update on the small leakage I’ve been having, it does appear to be the thermostat housing, running down on the radiator hose and dripping a small puddle on the floor (black arrow in picture) I’m going to make a temporary repair, check housing, change O-ring and stop the leak for the meantime but still want to do the water pump R&R. I’m sure it’s the original - almost 190K and want to change it on my terms, not while out, broken down somewhere.

I wasn’t sure about the water pump outlet either but looking at the picture it looks to be the straight stem.
And I really don’t see leakage below the water pump shaft from the vent but for the life of me I can’t get a good angle to see the weep hole.

The serpentine belt stopped in just the right spot so
now I’ve got that part number.

 

[Oneof6]

WP leaks don't always show up as the weep hole. Unless one has a lift to get just the right view angle it's difficult to tell if the drips are originating in or from the weep hole. At 190K that's a satisfactory service life and, to me, a justifiable preventative R&R.
I had a leak Bonanza until I changed my WP and took extra care, that Ford doesn't do on the slam it together fast lines, to seal the new WP really good and install it without smearing the extra sealant around. There's a simple and effective trick to that.
Your lower hose connection does appear straight, I would replace that were it me with the same connection flange and hose.

 

[John in OkieLand]

this thread, has caused me to order up a new billet thermostat housing, and the double rubber gasket thermostat, from the riff Raff folks.

I am doing a LOT of maintenance "real soon now" when I get down to Dawsonville, GA to visit with my son, he is a certified diesel mechanic, and AI for helicopters too.

we will be replacing the critical cooling stuff, hoses, fan clutch, and lots more....
with less than 2500 miles driven since I bought the truck, and Zero history on it, we are going to check every thing.

as of today, it starts and idles velvety smooth. I count that as a blessing.

 

[Big Horn]

I know this is an aftermarket mod..... but I already have this thread started on the water pump R&R:

would someone who already has the dieselsite coolant filter installed mind measuring the width across the filter base for me? I want to see if I have room to fit one in there with the hose already there that goes around the belt. I have other Baldwin filters that I can measure to get a good idea once I know the filter base dimensions.

I’m not worried about the bracket, I can fab up a custom one if need be, thanks!!! 😀

 

[bugman]

The base is roughly 5" wide x 5 1/2" long. The length starts at the end of the mount and doesn't include any plug that may stick out of the end of it. Same with the 5" width, no plugs are included.

Here is a picture of mine and how I have the hoses connected to it.

Naturally yours will be a little different because of your truck year.

 

[Oneof6]

Here is a photo of my 02. The blue bracket that holds the filter assembly up I made. At the time DIESELSITE did not supply it.