[Oneof6]

Yes, that’s what I was referring to, I would personally never go in that far and not pull the front of the oil cooler, it will be getting its’ new gasket as well.

Below is a copy of the well written R&R on oil coolers which also addresses Nicks concern of not hanging the cooler off of the front plate.

I have a copy of Gooch’s coolant flush which describes turning on and running the Heater control to Full heat to remove air pockets:

It oil cooler rebuild season. Heres a few pics and tricks! - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - It oil cooler rebuild season. Heres a few pics and tricks! - So you snuck out in your slippers and fired the ole 7.3 up before its time to leave so your buns dont freeze to the seat and were delighted the beast fired right up!! Then you came back out to go...

www.ford-trucks.com

Its a matter of preference; my preference would be to not remove the cooler front standard unless there is a known discernable reason to, doing so has a PIA level of 8 out of 10. If no issues I leave it in place, remove the rear standard and re o-ring both ends of the cooler, becaise thats what goes bad and leaks, the big black o-rings. I change the rear contact gasket because the rear standard is off anyway.
Just the WP out and fan pulled back, I don't see a big increase in front standard R&R access. Radiator, fan and fan shroud out, yes.
Gooch's flush procedure is a good one. It is not however intended as written to be a ything other than a coolant system flush. It is not intended to be a count system cleaning procedure for oil contamination in the coolant system. Easy to modify its basic method to detergent wash out and coolant install, basically many many more detergent flush cycles with tap water, then a 4x flush of tap with distilled water and same very last cycle, drain the RAD and top up with 4 gallons of concentrate to have a 50/50 net mix.

 

[Big Horn]

Has anyone used one of these in purging and replacing coolant in their diesel? Kind of nice that if it holds a vacuum so you know you don’t have any leaks after doing the R&R of the water pump and hoses before beginning the refill:

Mishimoto Coolant Vacuum Purge and Refill Tool Kit

There's nothing fun about spilling coolant all over your engine bay and driveway or waiting in the cold for your engine to warm up while you bleed air from the cooling system. That's why Mishimoto wants to help you avoid all of that and fill your cooling system in two easy steps. With this...

www.mishimoto.com

And, most of these kits say to introduce 50/50, why couldn’t 4 gallons of concentrate be introduced first, followed up by the distilled water until full?

 

[John in OkieLand]

Has anyone used one of these in purging and replacing coolant in their diesel? Kind of nice that if it holds a vacuum so you know you don’t have any leaks after doing the R&R of the water pump and hoses before beginning the refill:

Mishimoto Coolant Vacuum Purge and Refill Tool Kit

There's nothing fun about spilling coolant all over your engine bay and driveway or waiting in the cold for your engine to warm up while you bleed air from the cooling system. That's why Mishimoto wants to help you avoid all of that and fill your cooling system in two easy steps. With this...

www.mishimoto.com

And, most of these kits say to introduce 50/50, why couldn’t 4 gallons of concentrate be introduced first, followed up by the distilled water until full?

yes, put in the concentrate, then top off with Distilled water.

have not used the tool above, have seen a similar tool on YT though

 

[RT]

It’s a Airlift clone. I’ve used my Airlift thousands of times. It’s not needed on a system with a degas bottle. They’re indispensable on rice burners that have a radiator fill below the top water jacket in the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Big Horn]

It’s a Airlift clone. I’ve used my Airlift thousands of times. It’s not needed on a system with a degas bottle. They’re indispensable on rice burners that have a radiator fill below the top water jacket in the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you

 

[lewisrassel]

I’m starting to put together an inventory for a water pump R&R this spring/summer. I wasn’t sure I would be up for it, but now with improved health I’m looking forward to doing it.

So far I have decided on the Airtex RT-1201 water pump due to overwhelming reviews by members on TDS forum
Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin
Also, the Motorcraft brand 190 degree thermostat (new design) with the integrated gasket.

Billet thermostat housing,

Already bought a new upper hose (around accessory belt) and installed last year, along with new electric sensor for coolant temp.

I have already bought the Chevron ELC coolant.

Now I’m looking at the remainder of hoses, and possibly new plastic fan as they get brittle with age. Rock Auto has a large assortment with Motorcraft (most expensive) and aftermarket OEM. What are their middle of the road (price) options like when it comes to quality and length of service or should I stick strictly to Motorcraft. I know a lot of you shop Rock Auto, I haven’t - so I appreciate your advice.

I looked at advanced search for write ups on R&R of fan/clutch and unfortunately the one that RT had linked to no longer exists. If my memory serves correct from past articles the fan/clutch has left handed threads doesn’t it?

Thanks everyone!

get some stainless steel bolts slightly longer than the ones that hold the thermostat housing. Cut the heads off and loctite them into the pump.

 

[bugman]

get some stainless steel bolts slightly longer than the ones that hold the thermostat housing. Cut the heads off and loctite them into the pump.

Why use bolts, when you can get stainless studs?

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

One can buy aluminized heat shield material from Thermotech to cover the oil cooler. Bind it with stainless mig welding wire.

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

Buy the sheets of adhesive backed stuff and a can of their aerosol high heat spray adhesive. Use a piece of fabric to make a pattern. Then use the pattern to cut the sheet out. Spray the oil cooler and back of sheet. Let it get tacky. Put it on and secure with stainless wire.

 

[Big Horn]

One can buy aluminized heat shield material from Thermotech to cover the oil cooler. Bind it with stainless mig welding wire.

For what purpose?

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

To keep the exhaust manifold heat off of it. It will help the Orings live longer. It can also make it easier for the coolant to cool the oil.

 

[Big Horn]

To keep the exhaust manifold heat off of it. It will help the Orings live longer. It can also make it easier for the coolant to cool the oil.

And here I was planning to degrease, and paint it with high temperature engine paint😉

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

By all means if you are in salt land.
I’ve seen extremely pitted and I painted them. I’ve never seen a rot through but I was not going to be ok with returning it that way.
You have to use some wood on the end caps because it’s surface is not even, when in the press. The caps and everything has to be fully supported and perfectly vertical. There is a ledge in there. If you catch it when pressing, you will break the cap.

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

I’m tellin’ ya now a few other things.
Have lots of cardboard down.
Watch your shirt, pants and shoes. Just when you think that things is empty, it will puke on you.
Use an electric paint stripping gun to gently and evenly heat the end caps up before knocking downward with a block of wood and a deadblow hammer to get caps off. Watch her, she’s goona puke after and you move her around.
Tape of ports if removing rust, grease and or painting.
Do not attempt reassembling without a press. They are serious Orings and will cause big resistance. If you try beating caps on with a rubber hammer, you risk cutting oring on that ledge and or breaking the cap if it’s not perfectly straight and you catch the ledge.

 

[Big Horn]

By all means if you are in salt land.

Well, I am...... But that’s not the only reason. Every job and repair is a good opportunity to clean and paint. Just about all the truck has been done like this .... time to start on the engine👍

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

Good job for sure. Refresh my memory. What did you use there?

 

[Big Horn]

Good job for sure. Refresh my memory. What did you use there?

On the frame, springs, diffentials - I degreased, wire brushed and used POR-15. On the undercarriage, wheel wells, and bottom of bed I used Majic Brand oil epoxy Ford Grey Tractor Paint. To be fair, the previous owner took very good care of it......I’m trying to do the same. PO was meticulous, the truck spent most of its life in Northern Iowa

 

[bigb]

FWIW I have the Dieselsite coolant filter mounted where oneof6 has his mounted and the Motorcraft hose would not work but the NAPA hose fits. It still touches the side of the coolant filter but just barely.

 

[Oneof6]

FWIW I have the Dieselsite coolant filter mounted where oneof6 has his mounted and the Motorcraft hose would not work but the NAPA hose fits. It still touches the side of the coolant filter but just barely.

Yes, as one can see its crowded with a coolant filter in that spot.

 

[Big Horn]

FWIW I have the Dieselsite coolant filter mounted where oneof6 has his mounted and the Motorcraft hose would not work but the NAPA hose fits. It still touches the side of the coolant filter but just barely.

I’ve got that problem figured out, even with the hose around the belt. I went with the coolant filter from XDP and am building my own custom bracket. I’ll post a picture when done........changing the filter should be a snap😀