The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I’m going to buy a 5 gallon pail of Rotella. I looked at posts and saw “Rotella T” as being popular among the group.

Tractor supply has an online offer - 5 gallons of Rotella T4 for $59.99...... is this the same thing? I see there are a few variations of T(#) oils.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,616 Posts
T4 is dino, t6 is synthetic.
Oreilly has a sale on Chevron delo synthetic. Also a rebate.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Is anyone using the Harvest King motor oil sold at Rural King? On a search (another site) a thread came up that the user called Blacstone and talked to a tech who said the Harvest King was as good as any other diesel oil if scheduled maintenance (oil changes) is performed.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Not sure what the other brands of oil cost cause I only use Rotella T6 (synthetic). They're offering a mail in rebate until the end of the year, $7/gallon, $35/5 gallon pail. I think I've got 4 oil changes worth in my garage already, LOL! Look for it on sale too. Often is.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Not sure what the other brands of oil cost cause I only use Rotella T6 (synthetic). They're offering a mail in rebate until the end of the year, $7/gallon, $35/5 gallon pail. I think I've got 4 oil changes worth in my garage already, LOL! Look for it on sale too. Often is.
How often are you changing your synthetic? I was considering synthetic where I would just change my oil, oil filter, fuel filter every 10K. Is anyone else doing this.
My truck is pretty pampered, no heavy towing yet, not running up many miles.
How important is the “date of oil change” because right now I have exceeded the date of sticker (oil change) but still have 1800 miles or so left before reaching max mileage.

The P.O. had the oil changed before I bought the truck in June 18 - sticker says Chevron products but doesn’t list actual oil but is hand written that it was 10w30?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,260 Posts
Is anyone using the Harvest King motor oil sold at Rural King? On a search (another site) a thread came up that the user called Blacstone and talked to a tech who said the Harvest King was as good as any other diesel oil if scheduled maintenance (oil changes) is performed.
Not sure about the oil but it is listed on Ford's approved WSS-M2C171-F1 diesel oil list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
I have always gone 7500 to 10,000 with all my vehicles. '98 Camry, '97 pathfinder, 2000 7.3, with synthetics but after moving to the lower desert I'm going 5000. A big diesel shop here in Phoenix recently posted a 720,000 mile 7.3 coming in for general maintenance with original engine. He does oil every 5000 and fuel filter every 10,000.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,098 Posts
Oil The Reality

At the risk of starting an oil war let me start by writing that I recognize that oil selection loyalty is common and feelings run strong. Here is the reality, it is much more about branding than about the actual oil itself. For instance Refiners like Shell and Chevron make great oils, but they, or others with license, often package that same oil in other brandings. Regardless of branding the oil is made to an API specification and it will have an API spec on the container. I use Rotella T, now T4 because it's good oil and available almost anywhere. Rated API Spec out to the latest spec which includes all the previous specs. So, just get an oil that meets or exceeds the API spec recommendation for your engine. Just look right there on the container for it. Regardless of where you buy it if it meets the API spec you are good to go and chances are it actually originated from the same refiner.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
At the risk of starting an oil war let me start by writing that I recognize that oil selection loyalty is common and feelings run strong. Here is the reality, it is much more about branding than about the actual oil itself. For instance Refiners like Shell and Chevron make great oils, but they, or others with license, often package that same oil in other brandings. Regardless of branding the oil is made to an API specification and it will have an API spec on the container. I use Rotella T, now T4 because it's good oil and available almost anywhere. Rated API Spec out to the latest spec which includes all the previous specs. So, just get an oil that meets or exceeds the API spec recommendation for your engine. Just look right there on the container for it. Regardless of where you buy it if it meets the API spec you are good to go and chances are it actually originated from the same refiner.
I did not realize my Delvac was made by the same refiner as my Shell Rotella and Chevron DELO but even if it were, you omitted the fact that quality oil is largely dependent on the choice of base stocks and proprietary additive packages. It is my understanding that the Blending & Filling facility is where the various brands might have common origins but each went through at a different time than its competitors to achieve its desired properties.

A blind VOA will typically be unique enough for a tribologist to identify the brand & type.

I am not saying one is necessarily superior to another and I am not defending any particular brand loyalty, but they are not all the same with only a different color container.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
At the risk of starting an oil war let me start by writing that I recognize that oil selection loyalty is common and feelings run strong. Here is the reality, it is much more about branding than about the actual oil itself. For instance Refiners like Shell and Chevron make great oils, but they, or others with license, often package that same oil in other brandings. Regardless of branding the oil is made to an API specification and it will have an API spec on the container. I use Rotella T, now T4 because it's good oil and available almost anywhere. Rated API Spec out to the latest spec which includes all the previous specs. So, just get an oil that meets or exceeds the API spec recommendation for your engine. Just look right there on the container for it. Regardless of where you buy it if it meets the API spec you are good to go and chances are it actually originated from the same refiner.
I did not realize my Delvac was made by the same refiner as my Shell Rotella and Chevron DELO but even if it were, you omitted the fact that quality oil is largely dependent on base stocks and additive package.

A blind VOA will typically be unique enough for a tribologist to identify the brand & type.

I am not saying one is necessarily superior to another and I am not defending any particular brand loyalty, but they are not all the same with only a different color container.
Members on my other posts have commented on oil preference as well - I appreciate everyone’s thoughts and my intention is not to stir the pot, but with so many options it makes a decision difficult especially for someone like me that has never had an allegiance to one brand or another (though I normally buy name brands and USA made when and where possible)

I did send off for a kit from Blackstone— so that no matter what brand I do choose I can get feedback that it is doing what it’s supposed to. I’m leaning towards Rotella or Mobil- I think 🤔
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Big Horn,

Motor oil is like beer...they are not all the same.

Try a few out and see which one your engine likes best.

There is really no wrong product as long as its rated for diesel or “C” (commercial) and in the recommended viscosities but there are better and worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,098 Posts
API Spec it's a good thing

Well that's fun, marketing is a strong influence on preferences. There are way more brands than there are refineries to make the oil. From Ace Hardware to Ford everyone seems to have a "Brand" an anecdotal reputation and a committed customer following. Many, like Ford, have their own spec # but it backs into and uses as a base the API spec. API has specs and grades for oils that manufactures brand. Manufacturers meet or exceed that spec and all use that API relationship as a baseline for quality.


So think of it along this path. I really like MY oil because it comes it a neat bottle and its purple, or green, or has a high tech sounding name or has a gimmick sales approach but WOULD I really actually buy it if on the back it was written "Does Not Meet API Specifications" for your engine?


It's not magic Pixie juice, it's an Engineered product. Use those man/years to your advantage and check and rely more on API Engineered specifications than brand marketing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Well that's fun, marketing is a strong influence on preferences. There are way more brands than there are refineries to make the oil. From Ace Hardware to Ford everyone seems to have a "Brand" an anecdotal reputation and a committed customer following. Many, like Ford, have their own spec # but it backs into and uses as a base the API spec. API has specs and grades for oils that manufactures brand. Manufacturers meet or exceed that spec and all use that API relationship as a baseline for quality.


So think of it along this path. I really like MY oil because it comes it a neat bottle and its purple, or green, or has a high tech sounding name or has a gimmick sales approach but WOULD I really actually buy it if on the back it was written "Does Not Meet API Specifications" for your engine?


It's not magic Pixie juice, it's an Engineered product. Use those man/years to your advantage and check and rely more on API Engineered specifications than brand marketing.
I don’t have any experience with Pixie juice so I will defer to your wisdom & man-years on that...Lol

Meanwhile, saying that all oils are alike is akin to saying all batteries are alike because the majority are made by Johnson Control.

Its an oversimplification that simply is not true.

Here is a link to the Petroleum Quality Institute of America. Its full of Engineers that have spent their man-years researching petroleum products in the marketplace thinking there were differences between those products...they will no doubt be grateful to you for saving them any further wasted effort in their endeavors.

http://www.pqiamerica.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,098 Posts
No where did I write that "all oils are alike", in a rush to prove me wrong in some way you must have imagined it, only that the appropriate API spec oil is the base used for judgment, for instance current CK-4 API spec right on the container for consumers to easily see, AND, that some oils by manufacturers are rebranded, same oil in a different brand container. As long as it meets the CK-4 API Spec which includes the previous "C + Ascending Alphabet Number (s) it meets the specification for that particular oil use oil regardless of the branding, and that's just a fact.


So, I would use AND RECOMMEND JUST LIKE API DOES any oil with that API current CK-4 Walmart Brand, Tractor Supply brand, Rotella T-4 and others even Delvac.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
So just about when I think I’ve made a decision, somebody comes along and throws a fly in the ointment, Lol ! My supervisor who has a diesel (6.0) is telling me if I go to Rotella T6 synthetic I can never go back to Dino oil on my 7.3
I found old topics here dating back to 2005 saying it won’t hurt anything- ? And others saying on other sites it caused their engines to spin bearings, cause engine oil consumption, etc. Is there anything I should be concerned with? I trust this site as long as nothing has changed (?) over the past thirteen years
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Regardless of where you buy it if it meets the API spec you are good to go and chances are it actually originated from the same refiner.
I don’t come here to argue.
I come here for comraderie with others who enjoy their 7.3s.

If your claim that most oil brands originated at the same refiner was not to suggest they are more or less the same then what did you mean?

Because that statement is very incomplete to me since it fails to mention the more important stages downstream (at the blending & packaging plant) when different base stocks are blended and additized to meet each manufacturers specific requirements.

Here is a brief description of Base Stocks and you can see Group II, III & IV each have unique characteristics even though they may have originated at the same refinery. True the article is written for machinery lubrication but I am confident you get the gist of it.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

You have reiterated several times now the importance of the API rating, which is currently CK-4.

Well a 7.3 owner would be hard pressed to find an HDEO on the shelves which is not rated sufficiently for his 15 year old diesel so that is not exactly the criteria to look for. The base stocks and additives are what to look for and a person that is interested can find VOA of most brands posted over on BITOG or the Petroleum Quality Institute of America website I posted previously. That website has the additional advantage of describing what the various additives accomplish.

This is not argument. Its simple fact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,616 Posts
My supervisor who has a diesel (6.0) is telling me if I go to Rotella T6 synthetic I can never go back to Dino oil on my 7.3
What a goof. You should fire him.
Personally, from my own research, I wont run t6.
Few seem to have success with it, other trucks hate it.
Now OTOH, I don't know why you would go back to dino. But no reason you can't.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,098 Posts
Dino vs Synthetic ?

While I personally don't see much benefit in running synthetic unless one plans to extend oil change intervals. I just prefer to use a natural dino oil and change more often. However, synthetics and dino oils are engineered products both good for the mechanical lubrication application. The only real difference would be effect on seals not hard parts. I have not heard of any effect on seals by going to synthetic from natural oils and then returning to natural oil, has someone else actually seen an example in a 7.3? My last company changed on a Service Managers whim to synthetics on our construction service trucks, he left and the next guy changed back to a natural oil on the fleet and no one reported to me any OMG stories.
The main thing is, keep it clean, use an API oil rated for your service and get regular oil testing, I get one every year or 3rd oil change. That test is valuable to find and correct engine killing things like bad injector O-rings leaking fuel into your oil or coolant in the oil, ineffective filtering and other conditions. I use Blackstone Labs as many here do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,098 Posts
Artic Driver

I also come here to educate myself and share information not argue. I admit it when I am wrong and see no need to argue when I am correct. I do like to be quoted correctly for accuracy.

The original poster was seeking advice and direction on this contentious branding driven subject, the right oil for his investment in a sea of what can seem like incomprehensible personal opinions. I sought only to explain how the industry works and the system and accepted Industry rating standard so that he could have confidence that by using that system he would get the right oil and have confidence in that selection. I still believe, along with the entire industry, that that the API system is correct.

The API system is used as a standard by quality product manufacturers, INCLUDING the Mobile product Delvac you indicated " My Delvac" above you use. Easy to find in Mobil Delvac specs advertised everywhere and right on every container, API not other organizations. That is why I keep going back to API.

The current CK-4 API rating (Including Delvac) is the latest in a series of oil specifications. Starting with "C". It started with C4 and has progressed through CI-4 CJ-4 to CK-4. The current CK-4 Is applicable to all preceding versions, pretty simple system. They, API and oil producers use a similar alphabetical system for other applications like automobile and gasoline engines for instance the "S" series.

I apologize to the original poster if I contributed to any confusion on what oil to use that will make him feel comfortable with his choice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
I use Valvoline "Premium Blue Extreme" synthetic, 5W-40.

But only 'cause it comes in a cool blue bottle, and blue is my favorite color! Oh, and is says "Blue" in the name too...

~Al
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top